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DPChallenge Forums >> Individual Photograph Discussion >> Let's Discuss Sharpening...
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01/26/2007 05:09:40 PM · #51
I have been using a very slight USM and then sharpen in NN. It has the Noise Brush to basically mask over any areas you don't want to sharpen. Lately I have been using it around 200% and 0.6, then adjust the Strength and smoothing just slightly past where the noise (I want) gone.
01/26/2007 05:18:08 PM · #52
Originally posted by stdavidson:

Originally posted by idnic:

The Cindi For DPC method - Smart sharpen at full-size, resize to 640, Sharpen, Fade Sharpen to 30%, save for web. Works a charm for DPC resolution.

The sharpness of your images is absolutely perfect.

What does Smart Sharpen applied on the full sized image accomplish that you don't get without applying it first? I'm hoping for more explanation than, "it is sharper" but might be all I get. LOL!! :)


I use smart sharpen to give the image a perfectly sharpened look at full-size to give it the best possible chance of resizing the way I want to see it. Since resizing does diminish sharpness a bit, I only need to add back that missing bit - not totally sharpen an image that is so small by comparison to the original. Like with most processes in PS, if you can work with more pixels, you'll get a better result.
01/26/2007 05:25:42 PM · #53
IMO, certain shots are just very difficult to make suitable for web display. Try printing it out 8x10 and see if you notice similar sharpening-type artifacts.

I believe that upon compression some funky things can happen in those "busy" regions, especially with trees.

I see it a bit in the leaves over on camera left in this image:


When looking at it at 100% at full-resolution, I do not see any of the sharpening artifacts and halos that are present in the compressed image, and even when I simply resize to 640 pixels, it seems overly sharpened to begin with even without any USM or Smart Sharpen applied.

Just my thoughts :)

Lee
01/26/2007 05:55:11 PM · #54
Originally posted by Gordon:

I find a huge amount of images i see on this site far too sharp for my tastes. I consider 'over sharp' to be when I can start seeing the halos on the shot....

I'd also say that Kirbic's Sedonia shot screams 'oversharp' to my eyes on this display. Every one of the fine tree branches has a sharp halo around it from sharpening. If not, then it has that appearance.

I find a lot of photos oversharpened too. Of late I've been using what I first heard called "contrast-enhancing USM" -- basically using the USM filter with a low amount and high diameter, e.g.:

12%/48 dia/TH = 0

This seems to enhance the overall contrast and sharpness without creating halos. If it needs work on the edges I'll use a still-small but more normal USM setting, such as

66%/0.6 dia/TH = 5 (for a DPC-sized image)

I've also found that either the camera's built-in sharpening or else just lighting conditions will produce halos when you have branches backlit against the sky, even without any additional sharpening at all.
01/26/2007 06:01:21 PM · #55
Originally posted by idnic:

I use smart sharpen to give the image a perfectly sharpened look at full-size to give it the best possible chance of resizing the way I want to see it. Since resizing does diminish sharpness a bit, I only need to add back that missing bit - not totally sharpen an image that is so small by comparison to the original. Like with most processes in PS, if you can work with more pixels, you'll get a better result.

Hmmmmm... Interesting. I assume you have a set of Smart Sharpen parameters you use for most images. What are those? I realize they will vary from camera to camera and probably lens to lens but I'm just curious.

What happens to sharpness when you upscale for printing?

Message edited by author 2007-01-26 18:02:42.
01/26/2007 06:07:20 PM · #56
Originally posted by stdavidson:


Hmmmmm... Interesting. I assume you have a set of Smart Sharpen parameters you use for most images. What are those? I realize they will vary from camera to camera and probably lens to lens but I'm just curious.

What happens to sharpness when you upscale for printing?


Right now my smart sharpen settings are 184, 1.0 and I rarely change them much from that (and never change the 1.0). Upsizing may diminish sharpening a bit, same as downsizing, so I use Sharpen faded back if needed. I do keep in camera sharpening at +1, I really don't think that makes much of a difference, but it makes me feel better. :)
01/26/2007 06:22:35 PM · #57
Originally posted by idnic:

Right now my smart sharpen settings are 184, 1.0 and I rarely change them much from that (and never change the 1.0).

You use defaults for the shadow and highlight settings?
01/26/2007 06:25:35 PM · #58
Originally posted by stdavidson:

Originally posted by idnic:

Right now my smart sharpen settings are 184, 1.0 and I rarely change them much from that (and never change the 1.0).

You use defaults for the shadow and highlight settings?


Yep. No need to complicate something that works just fine. :)
01/26/2007 06:40:47 PM · #59
do you use a sharpened file when resampling up for printing?

i usually don't save the sharpening i do to the full res images - because i never know what exactly i might output it to when i open it next. is it beneficial to up-sample a sharpened image?

Originally posted by stdavidson:

Hmmmmm... Interesting. I assume you have a set of Smart Sharpen parameters you use for most images. What are those? I realize they will vary from camera to camera and probably lens to lens but I'm just curious.

What happens to sharpness when you upscale for printing?

01/26/2007 06:50:22 PM · #60
Since the subject came up, here is a novel sharpening method that has very little tendency to leave a telltale halo:

In PS CS2

1. Layer>duplicate layer (produces a 'background Copy')
2. On the layers palette, select 'overlay'(the image will look gross)
3. Using the background COPY layer apply filters>other>highpass with a small radius .5 to 5 pixels depending on image size. The background copy layer will become mostly gray with dark lines at image edges.
4. Adjust the opacity to suit and flatten the image.

Neat, huh!
01/26/2007 07:01:30 PM · #61
I had the interesting experience this evening when walking outside. It was a bright, but overcast day. Plenty of bare, thin twigged trees around.

Looking at them with an 'image processing' eye, they looked 'oversharpened' in real life. The typical things we consider for over sharpening, very dark to immediate light transitions, were there, all over the place.

So I can see that it would be near impossible to sharpen images of those sorts of things without adding in what look like halos - the appearance of halos is already there, in bright light.
01/26/2007 07:05:27 PM · #62
sort of why i said apparently oversharpened earlier on... ;}

and with an image like that - especially with a ton of detail - resizing to fit a 150K or 200K limit doesn't do the 'unsharpened' image any good either...

Originally posted by Gordon:

I had the interesting experience this evening when walking outside. It was a bright, but overcast day. Plenty of bare, thin twigged trees around.

Looking at them with an 'image processing' eye, they looked 'oversharpened' in real life. The typical things we consider for over sharpening, very dark to immediate light transitions, were there, all over the place.

So I can see that it would be near impossible to sharpen images of those sorts of things without adding in what look like halos - the appearance of halos is already there, in bright light.

01/26/2007 07:33:12 PM · #63
Originally posted by Gordon:

I had the interesting experience this evening when walking outside. It was a bright, but overcast day. Plenty of bare, thin twigged trees around.

Looking at them with an 'image processing' eye, they looked 'oversharpened' in real life. The typical things we consider for over sharpening, very dark to immediate light transitions, were there, all over the place.

So I can see that it would be near impossible to sharpen images of those sorts of things without adding in what look like halos - the appearance of halos is already there, in bright light.


That, I believe, is part of my problem here. The branches were side-lit, and very high-contrast. There are no halos, but they did hold very high edge definition, due to the resampling strategy I used. Letting them go soft did not at all improve the look of the photo.
I'll have to experiment further with this and similar shots to find a happy medium.
01/26/2007 07:48:58 PM · #64
So, here's a very quick redux:



What I did to this was simply to apply a selective, 20% opaque gaussian blur of 1.5px to the high-detail, high-contrast areas. Does this remove the sense of being oversharp?
01/26/2007 07:50:12 PM · #65
Originally posted by kirbic:

So, here's a very quick redux:

What I did to this was simply to apply a selective, 20% opaque gaussian blur of 1.5px to the high-detail, high-contrast areas. Does this remove the sense of being oversharp?


That is a LOT easier on my eyes.
01/26/2007 08:07:06 PM · #66
(oops, should have read the thread closer, this was duplicate info)

Message edited by author 2007-01-27 01:22:20.
01/26/2007 08:49:00 PM · #67
Based on the positive effect of the slight blur on hi-contrast detail, here's a 3rd edit:



I redid this one from the full-size image, and did only selective sharpening after resizing, to recover contrast in the detail in the rock formation. After comparing the submission and this result, I tend to agree that the submission, while not *technically* oversharpened, certainly had begun to have that over-contrasty look characteristic of oversharpened images, and so in fact it *was* oversharp.
This has been a great exercise; thanks to all who gave feedback! If anyone wants to post images for further study and discussion, feel free!

edit: If anyone's interested in looking at the original size of my image, it's here. WARNING! 7MB Image!

Message edited by author 2007-01-26 21:00:30.
01/26/2007 09:29:25 PM · #68
I'm still reacting to the tonemapping, but the effect is only barely there. I think it's a nice shot.
01/26/2007 09:32:52 PM · #69
Originally posted by DrAchoo:

I'm still reacting to the tonemapping, but the effect is only barely there. I think it's a nice shot.


Doc,
Cn you elaborate on what you're attributing to the tonemapping?
01/26/2007 09:37:06 PM · #70
Originally posted by kirbic:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

I'm still reacting to the tonemapping, but the effect is only barely there. I think it's a nice shot.


Doc,
Cn you elaborate on what you're attributing to the tonemapping?


It's hard to say Fritz. I think I look at the water and it looks noisy. Maybe it's most obvious to me in the area below the reddish rock at the bottom.

I will quickly admit I could be totally full of it. It is hard to explain, but I still think it doesn't look "right". I've found lots of tonemapped pictures have this quality to me and it makes my own experimenting with Photomatix hard because I generally don't like the results I come up with.

Can you post a resized orginial? I can see if what I "see" is still there.

Message edited by author 2007-01-26 21:38:27.
01/26/2007 09:40:54 PM · #71
Originally posted by DrAchoo:

Originally posted by kirbic:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

I'm still reacting to the tonemapping, but the effect is only barely there. I think it's a nice shot.


Doc,
Cn you elaborate on what you're attributing to the tonemapping?


It's hard to say Fritz. I think I look at the water and it looks noisy. Maybe it's most obvious to me in the area below the reddish rock at the bottom.

I will quickly admit I could be totally full of it. It is hard to explain, but I still think it doesn't look "right". I've found lots of tonemapped pictures have this quality to me and it makes my own experimenting with Photomatix hard because I generally don't like the results I come up with.


Ahhh. Ripples, LOL. If you can stand the 7MB download, take a look at the original, linked above. It's the same tonemapped file, just not resized. I think there's ripple detail that's just coarse enough to be reproduced, but comes out "choppy." I don't really know if it would look better with this smoothed out... Damn, I hate these small image sizes, LOL.
01/26/2007 09:46:49 PM · #72
Ya, it does seem a bit noisy for a 5D at ISO 200, doesn't it? I bet that's tonemapping artifact.
01/26/2007 09:55:41 PM · #73
Originally posted by DrAchoo:

Ya, it does seem a bit noisy for a 5D at ISO 200, doesn't it? I bet that's tonemapping artifact.


You looking at the water at the bottom perchance? I thought it was noise at first too, but it's actuallly not... it's image detail just at or slightly beyond the limit of the sensor's ability to resolve. Look at the deep shadow areas... they're clean.
01/26/2007 09:56:47 PM · #74
Originally posted by kirbic:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

Ya, it does seem a bit noisy for a 5D at ISO 200, doesn't it? I bet that's tonemapping artifact.


You looking at the water at the bottom perchance? I thought it was noise at first too, but it's actuallly not... it's image detail just at or slightly beyond the limit of the sensor's ability to resolve. Look at the deep shadow areas... they're clean.


well, look at the noise in the sky and then "see" the same noise in the stream. I think it covers the whole picture, but fades in and out based on the detail of what is being captured.
01/26/2007 10:05:56 PM · #75
Originally posted by DrAchoo:

Originally posted by kirbic:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

Ya, it does seem a bit noisy for a 5D at ISO 200, doesn't it? I bet that's tonemapping artifact.


You looking at the water at the bottom perchance? I thought it was noise at first too, but it's actuallly not... it's image detail just at or slightly beyond the limit of the sensor's ability to resolve. Look at the deep shadow areas... they're clean.


well, look at the noise in the sky and then "see" the same noise in the stream. I think it covers the whole picture, but fades in and out based on the detail of what is being captured.


Yeh. the sky does have a bit of "graininess" that's present in all channels. It's there on the TIF file, so it's not related to JPEG compression. I'm going to have another look at the RAW conversion. At over a 5:1 linear reduction, that's not what's showing up on the final image though... a trial resizing of the original yields an almost perfectly smooth sky.

Message edited by author 2007-01-26 22:10:07.
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