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01/19/2007 03:11:22 PM · #1 |
As many of you know I mainly shoot ballet pictures. Right now I'm using 3 Nikon flashes for lighting which have work ok but I'd like to really bump it up so that I have more versatility and can shoot faster in larger areas. This is something I am working towards doing professionally so I'd like professional equipment (not DIY stuff).
Figure a 25X25' area and I need to be able to use a large aperture so I have some flexibility if the girls miss their mark during jumps etc. Parents are normally breathing down my neck so fast recycle times are important as well. I'd say $4,000 would be the absolute max (though the cheaper the better)
What kind of lighting set up would you recommend? |
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01/19/2007 03:19:07 PM · #2 |
Are you looking to stop people in motion, in mid air ?
If so, you need fast firing strobes. Most of the normal studio strobes I don't believe fire fast enough for that sort of motion stopping. There are options you can get to accelerate the 'on' period for studio gear though.
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01/19/2007 03:26:16 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by Gordon:
Are you looking to stop people in motion, in mid air ?
If so, you need fast firing strobes. Most of the normal studio strobes I don't believe fire fast enough for that sort of motion stopping. There are options you can get to accelerate the 'on' period for studio gear though. |
yep, freezing them in the air. So the system would have to be very responsive, getting that split second where they are in perfect form can be a real challenge. |
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01/19/2007 03:30:52 PM · #4 |
Probably going to want to look into the Qunatum flashes for what you are looking for. Yes, they are expensive, but recycle times and pure output are probably worth it.
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01/19/2007 03:41:40 PM · #5 |
If I uses flashes as opposed to studio strobes though aren't I going to run into problems with soft boxes etc? That's part of the problem I'm running into now, the accessories are much more limited for flashes.
Also I'm a bit apprehensive of using flashes because I burned up a Nikon sb800 already by firing too many successive shots in a row with it. Whatever I get has to be able to withstand a lot of usage and have user replaceable bulbs. |
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01/19/2007 03:46:29 PM · #6 |
| I should add that I trade studio space for pictures with the ballet studio so the system does NOT have to be very portable. |
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01/19/2007 03:47:31 PM · #7 |
Excallibur
I really don't know enough about this one to know if it would stop motion. But it does fit most of your requirements.
Message edited by author 2007-01-19 15:48:56.
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01/19/2007 04:22:30 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by Shakalaka:
Excallibur
I really don't know enough about this one to know if it would stop motion. But it does fit most of your requirements. |
It says flash duration is 1/500th of a second on those, which is plenty to stop most motion.
Looking at Alien Bees the B400s shoot at 1/6400th of a second which would definitely stop any motion I needed it to.
Or am I missing something with that logic?
Anyone know how I can figure out how many w/s I would need to accomplish what I need? |
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01/19/2007 04:29:52 PM · #9 |
Bear_music used to do interior shoots, I'm sure he can steer you towards some formulas or at least a throw some knowledge your way. If he doesn't come around to the thread PM him.
As far as I know, stopping motion of a dancer, which is generally more graceful than a basketball player for example, I think the 1/6400 of a second should stop that. I've got lots of books here with dancers stopped under studio strobes.
The biggest problem that I see with using studio strobes to shoot dancers in such a large place is the fact that the dancers will be moving around in the scene, nearer and further from the strobes. With no TTL, the strobes can't get exposure for you.
Message edited by author 2007-01-19 16:32:59.
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01/19/2007 04:50:54 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by Shakalaka:
The biggest problem that I see with using studio strobes to shoot dancers in such a large place is the fact that the dancers will be moving around in the scene, nearer and further from the strobes. With no TTL, the strobes can't get exposure for you. |
Very true. Fortunately it's not just general class that I shoot. These are specific poses set up in fairly specific spots. The problem is with 8-15 year old girls of varying talents it's tough for them to always hit their mark in the air and they could be 2 feet closer or further away than anticipated. With the fast movement it also makes focusing very tough which is why a small aperture would be helpful.
I know 4 feet of latitude is a lot if the lights are close but if I have them 12 feet from the model do you think it would make a huge difference in exposure? |
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01/19/2007 05:00:13 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by Megatherian:
I know 4 feet of latitude is a lot if the lights are close but if I have them 12 feet from the model do you think it would make a huge difference in exposure? |
No it shouldn't make a huge difference at those distances, but does mean you need more power. For that, three 800 w/s Bees should be way more than enough juice for ya. At least with those you would have the option of turning them down. Although I think 400 w/s Bees would do the job.
I'd get large softboxes to help even out the light.
Also, you could crank them up with the reflectors on and bounce them off the ceiling for even light across the board.
Ya know, I think 2 400s and a 800 would be plenty ample.
Message edited by author 2007-01-19 17:01:38.
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01/19/2007 06:58:32 PM · #12 |
I'm going to suggest some combination of this pack: Speedotron 1205CX and some number of these heads: Speedotron 202VF
First, this pack is very fast to recycle 0.9s from full power and it's even faster at lower power settings.
Second, this head gives you the shortest flash durations with the above pack, 1/900sec at 600Ws and 1/1425 sec at 300Ws.
Keep in mind that to keep the flash duration short and the recycle times fast, you want to have the pack at the lowest power and also have the lowest power/head while generating enough light to get the exposure necessary.
If you want to compare to Alien Bees, do keep in mind that the AB 800 is not a true 800Ws, it's 320Ws, the AB 400 is 160Ws and the AB1600 is 640Ws. They do some goofy math to get their 400, 800 and 1600 ratings.
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01/19/2007 08:08:50 PM · #13 |
I just got a AB Busy Bee kit. I haven't had alot of time to play with them yet, But judging by the practice shots I have taken so far,. I definately could move to a bigger room and still have plenty of power. the kit is around $1700 well with in your budget.
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