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11/03/2006 01:13:41 PM · #26 |
1. Organize
Once I have moved the files to my computer using a card reader I delete the ones I don't want and rename the folders to something meaningful. I do this using BreezeBrowser Pro which is a great little program that allows you to view RAW files in a windows like environment. It also lets you create web galleries in a snap.
2. Raw Conversion
I mostly use Photoshop to convert but sometimes I use BreezeBrowser Pro especially for black and white images since it has a real easy way to apply color filters associated with b/w (i.e. red, yellow, orange, green)
3. Noise reduction
I usually always run both neatimage and noise ninja and go with whatever does the best job for the particular image. More times than not my "initial" noise reduction is done with neatimage and then later on in the workflow I'll use noise ninja more to fine tune things. A typical application later in the workflow would be after a shadow/highlights adjustment.
4. Tonal Range Adjustments
This is the bulk of my editing. I'll use curves, selective color (white, black, neutral), gradient map, shadow/highlights, tone mapping (new to my workflow) and various other things including hue/saturation which I'll apply in luminosity mode to get just the "tonal" adjustments and not a color adjustment.
5. Style adjustments
Not really sure what to call this step but it's basically whatever I do after I am satisfied with the tones of the image. Typically this is where I'll do slight color tweaks that may not effect the tonal range much. I'll also do dodging and burning here (or the curves equivalent) or any other stylized look. Basically anything that puts my "stamp" on it is what I do here.
6. Preparation for output
Whether for the web or print those steps are done here. That includes another pass of noise reduction, sharpening, cropping, etc.
7. Revisit the editing
If it's for the challenge I'll sometimes go back to an image after a day has gone by and look at it with new eyes. Often I have gotten better results in the challenge when I do this, which is something I have not been doing lately unfortunately. Outside of the challenge I'll also perform this step just to see what new things I can possibly do to it if I'm not originally satisified with the first edit although I don't usually wait a day to do this.
8. Archiving
After a while I'll burn it all to DVD although I need a better solution to that.
That's it. I wish I had a "ribbon making" step but unfortunately I haven't figured that one out yet. Maybe DrAchoo can help me there :P
Edited for spelling.
Message edited by author 2006-11-03 17:06:53. |
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11/03/2006 01:17:28 PM · #27 |
Mine is something like:
Work out what shot I'm planning to make.
Take the best possible picture or series of captures that I can, with the understanding of how I plan to process them. Expose it correctly for the planned work flow, light it correctly for the planned work flow.
download and edit accordingly, depending on the initial plan.
Point being, what happens before the shutter influences what happens after a lot.
Expose to the right or not
Multiple shots or not
Flat contrast for more information, or not
RAW or JPEG
Aspect ratio based on expected print
Composition based on expected output size
All factor into what the shot should be like that's taken in the camera.
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11/03/2006 01:19:41 PM · #28 |
True but I'm under the impression this thread was about your workflow after you've clicked the shutter or in the case of multiple exposures (i.e. those evil nikon people) after you're done clicking the shutter button
Message edited by author 2006-11-03 13:20:12. |
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11/03/2006 01:39:16 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by yanko:
True but I'm under the impression this thread was about your workflow after you've clicked the shutter or in the case of multiple exposures (i.e. those evil nikon people) after you're done clicking the shutter button |
True, but my point was it varies depending on the image and what it needs.
But if you want a generic one that works as a good starting point this isn't a bad place to start or this one or this one or this one for photoshop
Message edited by author 2006-11-03 13:40:30.
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11/03/2006 04:56:14 PM · #30 |
Originally posted by Gordon:
Originally posted by yanko:
True but I'm under the impression this thread was about your workflow after you've clicked the shutter or in the case of multiple exposures (i.e. those evil nikon people) after you're done clicking the shutter button |
True, but my point was it varies depending on the image and what it needs. |
Ah. Well mine doesn't really change. Before I click the shutter my only real concern is to maximize my s/n ratio by exposing to the right. When it comes to my post processing all I care about is having the best possible tonal range to work with even if the shot will ultimately be processed as high contrast. |
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11/03/2006 04:59:07 PM · #31 |
photo mechanic ---> ps cs2
i can't believe no one uses photo mechanic. it's like a standard...so much faster than bridge. if you haven't tried it, try it. |
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11/03/2006 05:04:00 PM · #32 |
Great stuff, having read through everyones workflows it looks like different people put emphasis on different parts of their workflow. I for one have learnt a load and will happily be looking at other workflows if anyone else adds to this thread.
cheers
Keith |
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11/05/2006 10:52:59 AM · #33 |
Originally posted by Gordon:
Expose to the right or not
Multiple shots or not
Flat contrast for more information, or not
RAW or JPEG
Aspect ratio based on expected print
Composition based on expected output size
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Recently, I've been trying to expose to the right and use flat contrast for more information.
Could you elaborate a bit on why you would decide to *not* expose to the right in some cases? Also, when would flat contrast camera settings *not* be a good thing when shooting?
Thanks.
-Chris
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