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02/26/2006 09:56:41 PM · #1 |
finally got a couple of shots that I like out of my new 10D. In another thread I posted some with weird washed out colors. I'm still not 100% sure what the problems were, but I reset the parameters to "standard" (Thanks Marj!) and things seem to be going better since then.
I was at an indoor volleyball tourney today and my current lenses will NOT work in a gymnasium setting (not for action anyway.) I was disappointed - even at 1600 ISO. But that's okay...at least with this camera that can be remedied by purchasing the right lens. How fast a shutter speed is recommended for action such as volleyball and basketball? I might have to look into renting a lens or two to try out before I decide what to save for.
It WAS gorgeous outside today, though - so I took a break and took a few shots in the surrounding area.
[b]What do you think? Color, contrast, focus?? I'd really like a few objective opinions as I have been fooling around with this for days now and quesiton my own judgement just a bit./b] No filter on the lens. These are PS Elements cropped, tweaked and resized. The banding in the sky is not there at all in the higher file size. Thanks for taking a minute to comment! |
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02/26/2006 10:05:25 PM · #2 |
For the sports stuff, you're probably going to want to shoot at 1/250 or 1/500, you'll still have a little motion on the fast-moving ball or a fast-moving arm, but will stop most body motion. Start with a 50/1.8, it's cheap and will give ou a flavor for what's possible with a fast lens. Even f/2.8 zooms are a struggle to make do with in some sports venues.
Your stuff from today looks great. Perfect color, good contrast, sharp.
Edit: BTW, I'm seeing positively no banding in the sky, looks great.
Message edited by author 2006-02-26 22:09:54.
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02/26/2006 10:06:17 PM · #3 |
I think your color and contrast look great... and I am glad you didn't give up when the first few pics weren't exactly what you expected. It's a pretty steep learning curve. I've had my 10D a year and I'm STILL learning! :) |
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02/26/2006 10:08:40 PM · #4 |
Oh...and I also need to know what to get for macro shots. I can't get close at ALL with what I have. I don't really want super macro, but if I want a leaf or flower I want to get closer.
My 70-300 says macro, but I still have trouble getting a focus, even from a distance, on anything small. |
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02/26/2006 10:09:07 PM · #5 |
Left you a comment on the first one. Btw, you can boost the ISO to 3200 on the 10d. To do that go to your Menu and then choose "Custom Function". You'll then see a weird screen. Just click through the options until you get something that says "ISO Expansion". I believe it's listed as "C. Fn-08" in the custom functions. Set that to "enable" and then you are set. Now when you go to change your ISO you'll have another option after ISO 1600. It won't say ISO 3200 but rather the letter "H". Just choose that and you'll be shooting at ISO 3200. Anyway, just fyi. |
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02/26/2006 10:12:17 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by yanko: Left you a comment on the first one. Btw, you can boost the ISO to 3200 on the 10d. To do that go to your Menu and then choose "Custom Function". You'll then see a weird screen. Just click through the options until you get something that says "ISO Expansion". I believe it's listed as "C. Fn-08" in the custom functions. Set that to "enable" and then you are set. Now when you go to change your ISO you'll have another option after ISO 1600. It won't say ISO 3200 but rather the letter "H". Just choose that and you'll be shooting at ISO 3200. Anyway, just fyi. |
Thanks. Yes, I did try that and still came out very blurry. I could perhaps get something passable with that setting with a little more practice - but I'd like a bit better quality than just passable. The widest I can currently go is 3.5.
Thanks for helping though! :) |
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02/26/2006 10:37:51 PM · #7 |
And just fyi, I am also restarting my PaD. I figure that's a good way to work at learning this camera. I think it really helped me reach better levels of photography with my 717 and hopefully it will do the same with the 10D. I did it January through about September last year.
My Photo-a-Day gallery |
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02/26/2006 11:54:44 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by laurielblack: I think your color and contrast look great... and I am glad you didn't give up when the first few pics weren't exactly what you expected. It's a pretty steep learning curve. I've had my 10D a year and I'm STILL learning! :) |
I seldom "give up"
(However, I might "change plans...") lol
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02/26/2006 11:58:05 PM · #9 |
From my experience shooting for a college paper, volleyball is about the hardest sport to do. The motion is fast, the angles to the players strange, and when indoors, the lighting always seems to be insufficient. I'd suggest a fast prime lens, like the 50mm F1.8, which is rather cheap, but works well. That is, if they let you get right up to the edge of the court like they do here. Best of luck to you!
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02/27/2006 07:24:33 AM · #10 |
They look great. The quality, focus and color is superb! :D |
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02/27/2006 08:44:18 AM · #11 |
Originally posted by Marjo: They look great. The quality, focus and color is superb! :D |
Marj,
Thanks so much for your hospitality and encouragement! I had a great time just chatting and sharing...and it really did help. :)
Judy |
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02/27/2006 08:58:48 AM · #12 |
Left message on image.
Originally posted by jpochard: finally got a couple of shots that I like out of my new 10D. In another thread I posted some with weird washed out colors. I'm still not 100% sure what the problems were, but I reset the parameters to "standard" (Thanks Marj!) and things seem to be going better since then.
I was at an indoor volleyball tourney today and my current lenses will NOT work in a gymnasium setting (not for action anyway.) I was disappointed - even at 1600 ISO. But that's okay...at least with this camera that can be remedied by purchasing the right lens. How fast a shutter speed is recommended for action such as volleyball and basketball? I might have to look into renting a lens or two to try out before I decide what to save for.
It WAS gorgeous outside today, though - so I took a break and took a few shots in the surrounding area.
[b]What do you think? Color, contrast, focus?? I'd really like a few objective opinions as I have been fooling around with this for days now and quesiton my own judgement just a bit./b] No filter on the lens. These are PS Elements cropped, tweaked and resized. The banding in the sky is not there at all in the higher file size. Thanks for taking a minute to comment! |
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02/27/2006 09:02:49 AM · #13 |
Mark,
Thanks for the comment. I haven't even read about or tried "raw" yet at all. I figured I would step up to that after I get a better feel for the basics on the camera. It's definitely on the "to do" list regarding the learning curve though.
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02/27/2006 11:06:51 AM · #14 |
What lenses do you have? Add them to your profile please ;)
If you have the sigma 70-300 ap super macro 2, to get into macro mode you have to zoom to 200-300mm range, and then flip a switch. the minimum focus distance is quite a bit, like 3 or 4 feet. for macro to get good results you need a tipod and manual focus, and as small an aperture as you can get (f16 or so) so that usually means slow shutter speeds...and a tripod. vicious cycle.
The tamron SP24-135 does very nice 'macro' as does the above mentioned sigma. the tamron lets you get much closer though. True macro lenses (generally teh 90/100/105 2.8 type) are amazing and one is on my list for xmas. the canon 17-85 IS is good too, but more money and less range. IS won't help with action shots though, just camera shake.
FOr indoor shots of sport's i'd agree on the 50 1.8 as well. next up would be the 70-200 2.8 class of zoom lens - the sigma version is very good.
best thing to do is shoot shoot shoot. review, and shoot more. I have found GTGs very helpful - you go with otehrs to a given venue and when you see the variation in what you all shot you learn to see much better, and learn the limits of your equipment. You can also borrow lenses and try them out!!!
Go to best buy and get the sandisk 2Gb Ultra 2 CF card - after rebate it is only $89. Then for RAW - download from canon's site DPP (digital photo pro) - it's free, it's called 'DPP Updater' and can be found under the drivers and softare for any of the 1D line of cameras. Then go here for the tutorials on using it. It makes shooting RAW easy!
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02/27/2006 11:22:05 AM · #15 |
Your profile doesn't list the lenses you own yet.
The 70-300 is a really good choice for macro. Up to 1:2. You can get the thread reversal ring for the 50mm if you want to really get closer and higher magnification. You might want to consider picking up a special filter adaptor for the rear mount as that's some precious glass (ok it's only a 70 dollar lens, but you don't want to buy them that often).
1:2 should be good enough, but adding the 50 f/1.8 can be pretty good too.
If you have a decent tripod, remember that even if you can't extend the legs any further, you can often unscrew the stopper at the bottom and flip the center shaft upside down, with your camera mounted on the bottom of your tripod. That can be really helpful in some circumstances.
The 100mm f/2.8 (and similar 3rd party choices) are also a really good choice for sports because they give a really good range at 160mm and f2.8. They're sharp as can be too.
I tested one out on a similar rig to your own with about 50 shots in store and I was QUITE impressed with sharpness.
Be careful about shooting over ISO 800 with the 10D. Noise can be a real pain.
I've heard the software from FredMiranda.com can be really decent for that. It's only like 30 bucks too. |
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