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01/31/2006 02:28:25 PM · #26 |
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
You can, on cameras that have T instead of (or in addition to) B on the shutter speed settings. The difference is that with T you press the shutter button and the shutter opens. It stays open until the button is pressed again. To eliminate camera shake, you would cover the lens by holding a black card over it, open the shutter, remove the card after a few seconds (to allow the transient vibrations to settle), time the exposure, replace the card over the lens, press the shutter again.
Unfortunately, the Canon DSLRs that I know of do not have T, only B. Yet another way (in addition to not allowing a standard mechanical cable release) that Canon drives sales of their overpriced (IMO) electronic remote releases. |
I remember "T" well from my film Nikon days and large format days. Still used a cable release, used manual mirror lockup pre-exposure. I've never seen an electronic shutter with a "T" mode, though. Do they even exist? My remote release has a lock on it, so at least I don't have to hold the damned button down manually.
R. |
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01/31/2006 02:37:04 PM · #27 |
What I find most fascinating about your pictures is they look like they were taken during the day, but have a good nightime set of stars. That is a unique effect you don't see often. Quality issues aside, that is a style worth pursuing... everyone else does night-like images.
If you are not trying to capture star trails then your exposure times are about right, you really don't want to open your camera for more than 30 seconds or so (you might be able to get away with up to 45 seconds max) unless you are mounting it on a tracking system to keep the stars steady.
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01/31/2006 02:42:36 PM · #28 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
I remember "T" well from my film Nikon days and large format days. Still used a cable release, used manual mirror lockup pre-exposure. I've never seen an electronic shutter with a "T" mode, though. Do they even exist? My remote release has a lock on it, so at least I don't have to hold the damned button down manually.
R. |
The Nikon D70 seems to work something like this, from the little I've used one. |
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01/31/2006 02:47:29 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by Gordon:
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
I remember "T" well from my film Nikon days and large format days. Still used a cable release, used manual mirror lockup pre-exposure. I've never seen an electronic shutter with a "T" mode, though. Do they even exist? My remote release has a lock on it, so at least I don't have to hold the damned button down manually.
R. |
The Nikon D70 seems to work something like this, from the little I've used one. |
Reviews of D70 show bulb mode but no T mode...
R. |
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01/31/2006 04:32:24 PM · #30 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
The Nikon D70 seems to work something like this, from the little I've used one. |
Reviews of D70 show bulb mode but no T mode...
R. [/quote]
At least, a D700 using the wireless remote, in bulb mode, appears to need a click on click off type operation. Wasn't my camera though, nor really my problem. |
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01/31/2006 04:56:55 PM · #31 |
The vertical lines, definately satelites.
The North South isn't an issue, as some satellites travel north south instead of east west. They are only on that section of the sky, so therefore wouldn't show up.
I was a bit confused by the light going through the cloud. I was shown an image of similar times with the same type of lines appearing from a friend. He's 99% sure they're satellites, as he recalls seeing the satellites in that area the evening he shot them.
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02/01/2006 03:56:11 AM · #32 |
Ok, sounds like I need to update my list of things to get familiar with. ;)
I'll need to compare longer exposures against stacking multiple shorter exposures (even if a higher ISO is needed) and I'll need to look repeat the above with Long Exposure Noise Reduction (LENR). If I'm understanding LENR correctly, it is taking a black frame image under the same conditions as the actual image and combining the two to remove the noise that is present in the black frame from the image. If my understanding is correct, I'll also need to learn how to make black frames and use them to reduce noise in PP myself. That way I would be able to make one black frame for each different shooting condition instead of the camera making one for each image.
I'm not really interested in star trails -- so the shorter durations are appealing. However, by stacking I'm going to run into problems getting everything to line up -- with the terrain staying the same and the stars moving (relative to me). Masking out the stars on all but one exposure could work, but then I would lose the benefit of stacking for the sky. Any suggestions?
tripod
I know I need a good one -- but, have to spend money on non-photography life-stuff so no substantial purchases for a while. The one I have did cost a couple of bills though ($10 is still a bill), and is light-weight and flimsy. It does have a hook on the bottom of the central shaft I could hang something heavy from, but the hook is made of plastic so it better be a light something. Did I mention it was cheap? :D I don't expect miracles from it, but it's what I have so I'll have to make the best of it.
ambient lighting for 3rd image
Starlight thru moving wispy clouds from above. From the left and behind me normal small town street lighting, all more than a block away. There are some lights to the right, about a 1000 ft or mor away from the well lit loading docks of a warehouse -- although this was filtered heavily by the distance and the intervening trees. A thinly populated grove about 500 feet across with a dimly lit vacant rodeo arena in the middle.
vertical lines
They may well be satelites, it was as I said my first impression of them. I did not see them at the time, but while the picture was being shot my attention was not on the sky, it was on making sure I held the camera as still as I could. As I mentioned earlier the clouds were thin and wispy and moving (not overly fast, just moving). They look more solid in the photos than they did at the time, much like water with a long exposure. The lines going thru the clouds could easily be the clouds blowing over the lines. The only kicker to this is that there are three lines and didn't remember seeing that many satelites when I use to have time to watch them. 3 in 25s has them really moving.
Thanks for your help, hope I didn't miss anything.
David
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