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DPChallenge Forums >> Tips, Tricks, and Q&A >> Spray Fixative/Sealers?
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12/27/2005 11:18:03 AM · #1
I'm looking for a spray fixative/sealer to use on some prints that were done on matte and watercolor paper. I bought a can of Krylon Matte Finish #1311 at AC Moore last night. I tried it on a small print for testing and it's obviously not what I was looking for. What are people using for this task?
12/27/2005 11:21:12 AM · #2
I've heard Laquer is what is used. It can be bought in a spray can - i think. Testor makes it - dullcote is the name (and correct spelling) of the item i have used on model trains and planes. I believe they have a gloss verison as well, but with today' environmental regs i don't know if you can get it. Kmart used to carry it in their model car paint section, a black and yellow can.
12/27/2005 11:32:17 AM · #3
DickBlick.com has lots of different spray fixatives. I don't know if any of them are specifically designed for photo prints though.
12/27/2005 11:38:36 AM · #4
i've used this with my art stuff and it works well. says it's good for photos, too.Lascaux

Message edited by author 2005-12-27 11:39:03.
12/27/2005 11:39:52 AM · #5
I sprayed a photo that was predominantly black with the stuff I bought and it turned the black an ugly gray. Has anyone use something that keeps the blacks black?
12/27/2005 11:42:34 AM · #6
you could experiment with unscented hair spray... often used for drawings and watercolour. I have used it with photos and mixed media.
12/27/2005 11:49:00 AM · #7
Originally posted by undieyatch:

you could experiment with unscented hair spray... often used for drawings and watercolour. I have used it with photos and mixed media.


I wonder if hair spray is acid free... lol
12/27/2005 11:49:20 AM · #8
hey there, i use spray varnish quite a bit with my photos. An acrylic spray works really well and I have had no probs so far with discoloration. The one I am using right now is a cheaper version, made by Krylon, but there are more expensive archival versions out there. Check out pearlpaint.com or utrecht.com

12/27/2005 11:57:47 AM · #9
Originally posted by jmsetzler:

Originally posted by undieyatch:

you could experiment with unscented hair spray... often used for drawings and watercolour. I have used it with photos and mixed media.


I wonder if hair spray is acid free... lol


try it on your hair......
12/27/2005 12:01:12 PM · #10
Originally posted by undieyatch:

Originally posted by jmsetzler:

Originally posted by undieyatch:

you could experiment with unscented hair spray... often used for drawings and watercolour. I have used it with photos and mixed media.


I wonder if hair spray is acid free... lol


try it on your hair......


Ummm.. that would be a problem for me too since I'm bald. I know hair spray isn't acid free and it will eventually cause yellowing so I'm gonna avoid that.
12/27/2005 12:14:49 PM · #11
Originally posted by jmsetzler:

I sprayed a photo that was predominantly black with the stuff I bought and it turned the black an ugly gray. Has anyone use something that keeps the blacks black?


Hey, you've discovered post-printing black point adjustment!

Seriously, I wonder if the blacks will eventually recover after the fixative has fully dried? I also wonder if using a really "dry" spray (very light coats sprayed from afar) would eliminate the problem?
BTW, how long after making the print did you spray it? That variable may be very impoirtant as well.
12/27/2005 12:18:40 PM · #12
Try it on your hair - yup that was supposed to be a joke..... I agree that hairspray may have chemicals that would not muster archival quality, however I have used it for student work - pastel and watercolour on photo paper, from the sixties, which are without spotting or discoloration that I can see. It may not be 100 year quality, but you might explore it for short term protection. It does work for dust protection. It depends on how long one would expect the physical photograph to last.
12/27/2005 12:26:25 PM · #13
If you are looking for something that doesn't change the look of your print I doubt you will find it......But, all the art and craft supply stores sell products for sealing artwork. I have tried many products and found there are too many times the print would be ruined by trash floating in the air or a sputter from the can or.......
The best solution I have found and what I always do is have them professionally printed, and it is less expensive too. No printer or ink or paper to buy either. After all, do what you really want to do...take pictures and leave to printing business to those who like to print.

edit: Kirbic is right...Let print ink dry completely first.

Message edited by author 2005-12-27 12:29:15.
12/27/2005 12:30:00 PM · #14
Originally posted by David Ey:

If you are looking for something that doesn't change the look of your print I doubt you will find it......But, all the art and craft supply stores sell products for sealing artwork. I have tried many products and found there are too many times the print would be ruined by trash floating in the air or a sputter from the can or.......
The best solution I have found and what I always do is have them professionally printed, and it is less expensive too. No printer or ink or paper to buy either. After all, do what you really want to do...take pictures and leave to printing business to those who like to print.

edit: Kerbic is right...Let print ink dry completely first.


I don't know if I can get any more professionally printed or not. I'm printing these on the epson 2200 on archival matte and watercolor papers. If I buy the same thing from an outside source, I still need to find some sort of sealer for this particular application to reduce the surface tendency to scratch.
12/27/2005 12:39:39 PM · #15
You might try this....
//www.camerashoptacoma.com/detail.asp?PID=LUMIS
12/27/2005 12:50:53 PM · #16
And here is another one you might want to consider.
Printshield
12/27/2005 12:55:58 PM · #17
Application of the spray is crucial. Several applications of extemely fine stray is important, as well as the distance one does the spraying. Used primarily for drawing marks on a page, a traditional fixative will help bond soft and delicate materials like crayon, pastel etc. It will work as a sealer, but that is not the primary purpose. Pastels and charcoal or pencil will remain delicate. On a photograph.... a reason for a top coat... as you say, might be for protection against scratch marks, but that is also the purpose of a framed print w/glass. I would be hesitant to use a fixative on a straight foto print, unless it was necessary with a frame w/o glass. Any chemical you use will alter the archival qualities of inert photographic inks. The variable becomes more complex due to how the print was mounted & with what material; interaction with the mounting; and also interaction with the inks. This is a tough problem. I say spray very very softly with whatever material you use.
12/27/2005 01:00:22 PM · #18
Originally posted by jmsetzler:

I'm looking for a spray fixative/sealer to use on some prints that were done on matte and watercolor paper. I bought a can of Krylon Matte Finish #1311 at AC Moore last night. I tried it on a small print for testing and it's obviously not what I was looking for. What are people using for this task?


The cans of Krylon Matte tend to spit and sputter at times leaving white blotches and a slight milky coat to the finnish. I have never had luck with that product.

What I use on all my prints, and without problem is Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating. This product not only adds life to my archival prints, but protects them from scratches, smudges and fingerprints in the interim between printing and framing. Use this lightly for best results.
12/27/2005 01:11:25 PM · #19
Entry level professional printer. And you still have the problem of sealing the print. Wall-mart uses higher quality than this.
//www.desktopdarkroom.com/stylus_pro_9800.html

Originally posted by jmsetzler:

Originally posted by David Ey:

If you are looking for something that doesn't change the look of your print I doubt you will find it......But, all the art and craft supply stores sell products for sealing artwork. I have tried many products and found there are too many times the print would be ruined by trash floating in the air or a sputter from the can or.......
The best solution I have found and what I always do is have them professionally printed, and it is less expensive too. No printer or ink or paper to buy either. After all, do what you really want to do...take pictures and leave to printing business to those who like to print.

edit: Kerbic is right...Let print ink dry completely first.


I don't know if I can get any more professionally printed or not. I'm printing these on the epson 2200 on archival matte and watercolor papers. If I buy the same thing from an outside source, I still need to find some sort of sealer for this particular application to reduce the surface tendency to scratch.
12/27/2005 01:22:04 PM · #20
Originally posted by David Ey:

Entry level professional printer. And you still have the problem of sealing the print. Wall-mart uses higher quality than this.
//www.desktopdarkroom.com/stylus_pro_9800.html



The 2200 uses the same ink and prints on the same paper as the 7600 and the 9600, all of which are more colorfast and archival then anything Wal-Mart uses. The only problem is that the finnish on the print is delicate and susceptible to smudging and abrasion while being handled or transported in the process of framing.
12/27/2005 01:35:13 PM · #21
Originally posted by nsbca7:



What I use on all my prints, and without problem is Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating. This product not only adds life to my archival prints, but protects them from scratches, smudges and fingerprints in the interim between printing and framing. Use this lightly for best results.


Does this add a gloss to the print? I'm trying to avoid that.
12/27/2005 01:47:13 PM · #22
Originally posted by jmsetzler:

Originally posted by nsbca7:



What I use on all my prints, and without problem is Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating. This product not only adds life to my archival prints, but protects them from scratches, smudges and fingerprints in the interim between printing and framing. Use this lightly for best results.


Does this add a gloss to the print? I'm trying to avoid that.


It comes in Matte and Gloss. Just use the Matte. A light coat takes most of the glare off my prints. I print on Premium Glossy from my 7600.
12/27/2005 01:55:38 PM · #23
Originally posted by nsbca7:



The 2200 uses the same ink and prints on the same paper as the 7600 and the 9600, all of which are more colorfast and archival then anything Wal-Mart uses. The only problem is that the finnish on the print is delicate and susceptible to smudging and abrasion while being handled or transported in the process of framing. [/quote]

The wall-mart comment was tongue in cheek. However, you're not gonna get a consistant Finnish from a rattle can in a non controlled atmosphere. I can gurantee that you will ruin many prints trying. Try not to be too upset when it happens.
Is there a problem with dpcprints? I've not used them.
12/27/2005 02:02:46 PM · #24
Originally posted by David Ey:

Originally posted by nsbca7:

The 2200 uses the same ink and prints on the same paper as the 7600 and the 9600, all of which are more colorfast and archival then anything Wal-Mart uses. The only problem is that the finnish on the print is delicate and susceptible to smudging and abrasion while being handled or transported in the process of framing.


The wall-mart comment was tongue in cheek. However, you're not gonna get a consistant Finnish from a rattle can in a non controlled atmosphere. I can gurantee that you will ruin many prints trying. Try not to be too upset when it happens.
Is there a problem with dpcprints? I've not used them.


You will ruin a few getting there until you get your technique down, but for what purpose would someone who owns one of the most archival printers in the world turn over control of the printing process to something like DPCprints?
12/27/2005 02:03:00 PM · #25
Originally posted by David Ey:

Originally posted by nsbca7:



The 2200 uses the same ink and prints on the same paper as the 7600 and the 9600, all of which are more colorfast and archival then anything Wal-Mart uses. The only problem is that the finnish on the print is delicate and susceptible to smudging and abrasion while being handled or transported in the process of framing.


The wall-mart comment was tongue in cheek. However, you're not gonna get a consistant Finnish from a rattle can in a non controlled atmosphere. I can gurantee that you will ruin many prints trying. Try not to be too upset when it happens.
Is there a problem with dpcprints? I've not used them. [/quote]

The problem with DPC Prints is that I can't make custom sizes beyond the canned sizes without underprinting a larger sized sheet. I also can't get a real matte paper. Their 'matte' paper is similar to a luster. This isn't just dpcprints, its most online print houses. The only one I have found that does true matte is westcoastimaging. They are expensive and I can do it myself with equal quality for a lot less money on the sizes I print.
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