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10/13/2005 11:36:15 PM · #26 |
  
  
  
Circular polarizer helps. I also keep my exposure compensation at -1 or so.
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10/13/2005 11:40:34 PM · #27 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
Can't post this one directly, it's too darn big, and it just does not translate to small size well at all.
This was taken on 09/30/2005 with the Canon 5D and canon 24/1.4L at f/2.8. it is nearly the full frame, but is cropped slightly to get rid of some coma on the far corners. It is a 360-second exposure, using a tracking mount, in this case an EQ-5 equatorial mount.
CAUTION, this image is over 1MB
//kirbic.smugmug.com/photos/39922927-O.jpg |
Space, the Final Frontier. |
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10/13/2005 11:42:49 PM · #28 |
why do you think he has Jean Luc for his profile image :P
"Make it so". |
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10/14/2005 04:37:15 PM · #29 |
| bump... all the bickering on some other threads is bumming me out. |
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10/14/2005 05:00:33 PM · #30 |
| some really great skies here :) |
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10/14/2005 05:13:15 PM · #31 |
I too use a circular polariser, in the right conditions.
I also simply choose not to shoot when the sky is almost white or grey as I know the scene overall will have too great a dynamic range to capture. Where I've ignored this rule I've had the same problems as you have - blown out sky.
This can be somewhat mitigated by underexposing (which I do a lot too) but there's a limit to how much one can underexpose without losing the shadows and introducing too much noise.
I look for shots where the sky has colour/ interest and if it's not happening that day I pretty much exclude the sky from most of the shots I take and look for other images to capture.
Also, you control when you go where - plan your shoots to coincide with a time of day when weather and the angle of the sun collude to get you what you want.
Message edited by author 2005-10-14 17:14:25.
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10/14/2005 05:17:40 PM · #32 |
Originally posted by Kavey:
I look for shots where the sky has colour/ interest |
Me too....
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10/14/2005 06:02:41 PM · #33 |
Graduated blue ND filter.
The sky wasn't blownout, it was a misty blah light grey.
Exposed for the sky and Digital DEE (Nikon Capture) to bring back the detail out of the shadows.
Simply shot early in the morning.
Simply shot early in the evening.
Message edited by author 2005-10-14 18:08:10.
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10/14/2005 06:16:00 PM · #34 |
I think I used a polarizing filter, but I'm not sure it had any affect in this case.
For this one I definitely did use a polarizing filter.
For this one I think I used a polarizing filter, but I'm not sure. Some highlights in the clouds are blown, but I don't think that it hurts the image too much in this case.
I think that if you find that your highlights are blown, you simply need to reshoot with your exposure compensation dialed down to underexpose the shot. |
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10/14/2005 06:17:15 PM · #35 |
 
If the sky is overcast to your eye, you are not going to get a picture of a properly exposed ground, and not blow out the sky...it's just impossible...but you can still make it a decent photo (well, at least I think it's decent heh)...
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10/14/2005 06:24:47 PM · #36 |
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10/14/2005 06:53:49 PM · #37 |
Well. I was just there to take the picture on all of these.
 
Just kept taking 15-30 second exposures until lightning struck- 
Stitched these together from between 3-6 shots a piece-
  
edit - Okay, these last one required extensive spot editing and blending on top of what photoCHop automatically did for me. The last one of the mountains took me 4 months to make me happy. Lots of spot editing, contrast mask, burning, dodging, sponge, it was a bugger.
Message edited by author 2005-10-14 18:56:17.
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10/14/2005 07:02:04 PM · #38 |
   
first one with polariser and the others long exposure at night with plenty of neatimage afterwards
Message edited by author 2005-10-14 19:04:57. |
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10/14/2005 07:04:00 PM · #39 |
   
   
Secret to blue skies? Make sure you have your exposure set correctly. Many point and shoot cameras do an excellent job of metering to include an appropriately exposed sky, especially if you have a special setting for "sunsets" or something like that. Any kind of spot metering is prone to overexposed skies if you accidently meter on a darker foreground element. |
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10/14/2005 07:07:17 PM · #40 |
Fritz, one of these days i'm gunna bang on your doorstep so you can let me do one of these fabulous photographs also... they are so breathtaking!!
Originally posted by kirbic:
Can't post this one directly, it's too darn big, and it just does not translate to small size well at all.
This was taken on 09/30/2005 with the Canon 5D and canon 24/1.4L at f/2.8. it is nearly the full frame, but is cropped slightly to get rid of some coma on the far corners. It is a 360-second exposure, using a tracking mount, in this case an EQ-5 equatorial mount.
CAUTION, this image is over 1MB
//kirbic.smugmug.com/photos/39922927-O.jpg |
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10/14/2005 07:28:56 PM · #41 |
I try to meter off the brightest parts of the sky if I'm composing for a shot where the sky is the subject. If you want a dark, bold sky centerwieghting or spot metering off the light will do it, but you'll probably get a silhouette of any other subject in your composition. Matrix metering like in my park shot should give you a balanced expiosure if you meter into the sky... anyway just take a zillion shots at different readings and see what works for you and your camera.  
  
Didn't use a polorizer
Message edited by author 2005-10-14 19:48:35. |
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10/14/2005 07:38:55 PM · #42 |
Ok, not your typical "blue sky" photo, but I have a red sky ;)
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10/14/2005 08:06:46 PM · #43 |
Point camera up towards fiery tree and blue sky, slow shutter speed, spin around like an idiot. :)
But normally, for a landscape, I use a Graduated Neutral Density filter.
You can get the Cokin P system and a GND filter for about $30. The holder kit (with adapter ring) is about $14, the filter about $18.
www.thefilterconnection.com
Look for the Cokin P system.
Or you can wait until the sun is behind clouds:
EDIT: I couldn't scroll down after I started my response, but now I see you don't have an SLR. You can get a Cokin system for any camera, it attaches via the tripod mount at the bottom of the camera. You may be able to use the "A" system filters, which are smaller and cheaper too!
Here's a picture of one, on Cokin's site: Cokin DIGI SHOE HOLDER
Message edited by author 2005-10-14 20:11:13.
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