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DPChallenge Forums >> Photography Discussion >> Framing, mounting, prints?
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09/26/2005 02:35:54 PM · #1
I have framed several of my prints, but I have some questions for those with more experience.

I find that I still have some bit of "wave" look to the print, even under the glass or plastic. Is there some way to prevent that?

Also, I have some prints that are poster-type layout with a white border. I find that I see dark spots when the white is pressed against the glass or backing. When the pressure is taken away, the dark also goes away. It's almost like those pressure-sensitive "magic erase" sort of toys that you can draw on with your finger? I got the prints from DPC Prints. Any help here? Thanks!

Judy
09/26/2005 02:56:45 PM · #2
When I make prints to hang up I get them from Mpix and get them printed on matboard then I don't have to worry about the waves. If you haven't used Mpix, I would strongly suggest looking into them...great quality and very reasonable prices. As for the dark spots...I know what you are talking about, but not how to fix it. Would it be possible to put some kind of spacer between the glass and the print?
09/26/2005 03:14:14 PM · #3
I second the Mpix, love them! But since you already have the prints, I would take them to a framing store and have them mounted on matboard (haven't tried doing it myself). That will press them out and keep them flat. Also, in addition to the mounting, even though you already bought the frames, get a bigger frame and a nice matting around the photo, maybe a double layer. This will keep your photo from pressing against the glass and giving you those dark spots. Costs a lot more than just sticking them in a frame, but worth it if you want to display your photos nicely.
09/26/2005 03:21:27 PM · #4
One internet site that I like for frames/mounting/mats etc is here

You can get all or any part of the whole need including prints. A real nice feature is the ability to upload your digital photos and view them with various mat colors, frames and even the color of the wall that they will be hanging on.

What I don't like about them is that they offer such a large variety that it is hard to make up your mind.
09/26/2005 03:31:15 PM · #5
I've had the same problem and just yesterday settled on a solution:

I went to A.C Moore and bought a can of 3M PhotoMount spray. Having an 11 X 14 inch print to mat and frame, I layed some newspaper on a table, placed the print face down on the paper, sprayed the back of the print evenly with the 3M glue. I then placed the print (glued side down) on a piece of mat board (foam core would work, too). Prior to affixing the print to the mat board, I measured precisely where the mat window would be, using "L" shaped pencil marks at the corners of the window. After waiting about 15 minutes for the glue to dry, I assembled the framed picure. I no longer have any waves!!
09/26/2005 05:22:23 PM · #6
Originally posted by lenkphotos:

I layed some newspaper on a table, placed the print face down on the paper, sprayed the back of the print evenly with the 3M glue.


Great tip! Just a thought though, edit: ok two: I would use some masking tape to tape all sides of the photo (print-side down) to the newspaper (as small as you can on the back of the photo) to seal the photo side so that no spray accidentally blows underneath and onto your photo. I would also try using another kind of paper, as the newsprint could rub off onto your print.
09/26/2005 05:33:42 PM · #7
Originally posted by lenkphotos:

I've had the same problem and just yesterday settled on a solution:

I went to A.C Moore and bought a can of 3M PhotoMount spray. Having an 11 X 14 inch print to mat and frame, I layed some newspaper on a table, placed the print face down on the paper, sprayed the back of the print evenly with the 3M glue. I then placed the print (glued side down) on a piece of mat board (foam core would work, too). Prior to affixing the print to the mat board, I measured precisely where the mat window would be, using "L" shaped pencil marks at the corners of the window. After waiting about 15 minutes for the glue to dry, I assembled the framed picure. I no longer have any waves!!


Yup that is the way. I've mounted over 200 just like that. If you make the nat just a little big no problem use a mat cutter and trip, everything is then exact. I've used the 3m spray and also the Hobby Lobby brand. Depending where you but the 3 m can be anywhere from $6.50 to $15.00 for the 11 oz can and the Hobby Lobby is about $4.75. Both seem to work great, no acid and no belled through. I've also found that spraying a light coat on both the mat mount and the back of the photo works best. I never frame any photo until I mount it on mat or foam core, You don't have to but I like the permanent smooth finish. Good luck.
09/26/2005 05:35:25 PM · #8
Originally posted by jpochard:

I have framed several of my prints, but I have some questions for those with more experience.

I find that I still have some bit of "wave" look to the print, even under the glass or plastic. Is there some way to prevent that?

Also, I have some prints that are poster-type layout with a white border. I find that I see dark spots when the white is pressed against the glass or backing. When the pressure is taken away, the dark also goes away. It's almost like those pressure-sensitive "magic erase" sort of toys that you can draw on with your finger? I got the prints from DPC Prints. Any help here? Thanks!

Judy


I've found that E-Surface paper doesn't have that effect. Glossy paper however is super-sensitive to heat and pressure.

Normally, it's not recommended to let the photo paper touch the surface of glass. However, I do a framing technique with my prints where I actually laminate prints between glass. Here's link: //www.newfoundlandrepublicimaging.com/pages/information.html If you'd like to learn more about the process I'd be happy to explain it.
09/26/2005 06:31:16 PM · #9
Ripples in the prints are most often caused by taping the print all the way around the mat. The print will expand and contract with temperature changes and this mounting method cause them to ripple.

ONLY hinge the print along the TOP edge underneath the mat.
09/26/2005 09:37:21 PM · #10
Originally posted by jmsetzler:

Ripples in the prints are most often caused by taping the print all the way around the mat. The print will expand and contract with temperature changes and this mounting method cause them to ripple.

ONLY hinge the print along the TOP edge underneath the mat.


This may sound like an extreme newb question (which I am :-) ), but, is there a certain kind of tape?

I have never mounted a shot, but have been thinking about it recently, just not quite sure of the process. If anyone knows of an easy beginner version of a step-by-step, I would appreciate the link. :-)
09/26/2005 09:55:41 PM · #11
There are acid free tapes that you can by for this purpose. And you can get double sided acid free tape also but for hinge mounting they use single sided. The double sided tape can be used for putting a paper backing on the frames.
09/28/2005 02:07:01 PM · #12
Some wonderful helpful tips! Thanks so much.

Now a follow-up question...

When using the spray, how do you smooth the print onto the mat board backing? Do you tend to leave the photo face down, and just lay the matboard over the back and press (does it smooth things out that way?) or do you lift the photo and then lay it on the mat board face-up, smoothing it down while wearing gloves or something?

09/28/2005 02:43:20 PM · #13
Originally posted by jpochard:

Do you tend to leave the photo face down, and just lay the matboard over the back and press (does it smooth things out that way?) or do you lift the photo and then lay it on the mat board face-up, smoothing it down while wearing gloves or something?


I've used a sheet of pec*pads to stick the print on the matting. I'm a bit paranoid when it comes to stuff like that, so i'd rather waste 1 pec*pad for smoothing the print tot the mattting, than taking a larger sheet of paper and riske scratching/messing up the print surface. but that's just me..
09/28/2005 04:38:15 PM · #14
I don't recommend spray mounting. It may be acid free but it's not archival in the fact that it's permanent and can't be undone.
09/28/2005 04:42:15 PM · #15
HERE is a link to a brief tutorial I wrote on matting and framing a print...
09/28/2005 05:07:42 PM · #16
Originally posted by jmsetzler:

HERE is a link to a brief tutorial I wrote on matting and framing a print...


Thanks for that link. A few more questions (sorry to be such a bother)

So it appears from your tutorial that you mount the photo on one edge to the mat, but you don't mount the matted print to the backing board? The backing board is simply put into place after the matted photo goes in the frame?

Also, I have several prints that I personally would prefer not to mat, but that I do want to frame. Any suggestions for that?

Thanks!
09/28/2005 11:13:22 PM · #17
Originally posted by jpochard:


So it appears from your tutorial that you mount the photo on one edge to the mat, but you don't mount the matted print to the backing board? The backing board is simply put into place after the matted photo goes in the frame?


This is correct. You don't need to fasten the matted image to the backing. The only time you need to fasten anything is if you are double matting. Both mats need to be fastened together

Originally posted by jpochard:


Also, I have several prints that I personally would prefer not to mat, but that I do want to frame. Any suggestions for that?

Thanks!


Sure... You can frame prints without mats, but it is recommended that you place spacers on the glass so the glass doesn't rest directly on your print. Sometimes the prints will stick to the glass and this becomes visible through the glass. Your local framing shop will be able to do this for you or you may be able to buy the spacers (not sure tho) at a place like AC Moore...
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