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05/17/2005 12:01:10 PM · #1 |
I have a problem and would see if anyone is willing to offer a suggestion.
I have two herniated disk in my neck that has caused nerve damage to my shoulders and arms. I recently purchased a 350D with a few lens. I purchased a Canon 70-200mm f/4.0 âLâ lens USM [priced-$569.95] because of its clarity. At least 3 out of five zoom pictures I take with it [handheld] has camera shake, not because of the lens, but because of my problem. I donât want to carry my tripod with me everywhere and donât have a monopod. I have even considered trading the lens in for a cheaper [priced-$399.95] Canon Zoom Telephoto EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 EF IS Image Stabilizer USM Autofocus Lens to help some. Iâm at the point to where I donât care if I loose a little money on the deal, a crisper picture would be worth it. I have heard that B&H will buy lens and thatâs where I purchased it from but itâs been over a month because of their two-week closing period. What do you think would be the best way for me to go?
Thank you,
Confused
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05/17/2005 12:08:51 PM · #2 |
Sorry to hear you're having that problem, Scott. You said you don't have a monopod, but would you be willing to use one or rather not? Also, what about a higher ISO (that's a pretty noise-free camera up to iso800, or so they say) allowing a faster shutter speed?
As for your specific question, sorry I don't have any experience with B/H. Maybe you could start the dpc equipment for sale forum with your 70-200? Wish I had the $ to spare right now, I'd buy it from you at your cost. Good luck.
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05/17/2005 12:14:54 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by nova: Sorry to hear you're having that problem, Scott. You said you don't have a monopod, but would you be willing to use one or rather not? Also, what about a higher ISO (that's a pretty noise-free camera up to iso800, or so they say) allowing a faster shutter speed?
As for your specific question, sorry I don't have any experience with B/H. Maybe you could start the dpc equipment for sale forum with your 70-200? Wish I had the $ to spare right now, I'd buy it from you at your cost. Good luck. |
Nova, thank you for your response. You answer helped me see something I was overlooking. I have been mostly shooting ISO 100, I could step it up to gain a faster SS, that would help. I would be willing to carry a monopod around with me, I just was wondering if it would help much. I like taking pictures of birds and a tri or monopod I don't believe would be a benifit because you have to be quick to catch them in flight or sitting in a possition to take the picture. |
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05/17/2005 12:17:14 PM · #4 |
Hi Scott, to get a better idea of the extent of the problem we should know what shutter speed you require to get a good crisp photo at 70mm and 200mm.
For example, if the shake requires that you need 1 extra stop as compared to most people we would know what to recommend...and if you required 3 extra stops...so on and so forth.
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05/17/2005 12:24:51 PM · #5 |
Adorama buys used equipment. Haven't used it myself, but have been considering it. Here's a link: Adorama Used |
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05/17/2005 12:33:46 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by thatcloudthere: Hi Scott, to get a better idea of the extent of the problem we should know what shutter speed you require to get a good crisp photo at 70mm and 200mm.
For example, if the shake requires that you need 1 extra stop as compared to most people we would know what to recommend...and if you required 3 extra stops...so on and so forth. |
Here is one of the better focused photographs. I deleted the very bad ones in frustration. This photograph was taken out of my car window with my arm propped on the door [window down]. Car was in park and off. So even in this picture I had some kind of support with the door. EXIF data below
100% Crop
EXIF:

Message edited by author 2005-05-17 12:36:54. |
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05/17/2005 12:38:41 PM · #7 |
That photo says it was taken at 1/60 at a focal length of 184mm...It would tough for most people not to experience camera shake without support...
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05/17/2005 12:40:06 PM · #8 |
IS is great, but you may lose an f-stop on the 300mm end of the 75-300.
If you only require one f-stop (or two f-stops at 300mm), consider upgrading your lens to a 70-200 f2.8. B&H may be more willing to trade up than trade down. Both Canon and Sigma have 70-200 f2.8 lenses available.
If you need more than one f-stop, and have lots of money to spend, the 70-200 f2.8 is available with IS.
The low-cost solution is to use a beanbag to stabalize your camera, or a tabletop tripod.
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05/17/2005 12:43:17 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by SDW65: I have even considered trading the lens in for a cheaper [priced-$399.95] Canon Zoom Telephoto EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 EF IS Image Stabilizer USM Autofocus Lens to help some. |
I think this might be as good a solution as you're likely to find. The IS function is specifically intended for the situation you have described; camera shake while shooting hand-held. I'd suggest taking your camera to a store that carries that lens & shooting a few shots with it. Take your CF card home & check out your pics. That should tell you if it would make enough of a difference in your results to make the switch. |
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05/17/2005 12:45:12 PM · #10 |
I would be more inclined to go with the 70-200 f/2.8L to gain a stop. And then don't be afraid to shoot ISO 400 or even 800 if need be.
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05/17/2005 12:48:47 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by thatcloudthere: That photo says it was taken at 1/60 at a focal length of 184mm...It would tough for most people not to experience camera shake without support... |
So do you think, in your opinion, that the amount of camera shake in the above picture at it's focal length and SS is about normal for most people? Am I trying to do the impossible by expecting a crisper shot without support? If so then I don't feel so bad.
Originally posted by hankk: The low-cost solution is to use a beanbag to stabalize your camera, or a tabletop tripod. |
Not a bad Idea, I defiantly need a low cost solution. :)
Originally posted by aronya1: I think this might be as good a solution as you're likely to find. The IS function is specifically intended for the situation you have described; camera shake while shooting hand-held. I'd suggest taking your camera to a store that carries that lens & shooting a few shots with it. Take your CF card home & check out your pics. That should tell you if it would make enough of a difference in your results to make the switch. |
Good suggestion. I have a wolfcamera here in town that would let me do that.
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05/17/2005 12:49:29 PM · #12 |
Another option, if you can afford it, I just bought the 70-300 DO IS and I really like it. I paid $1000 after discounts. It's nice and short and transportable, has IS, and is rated higher than the 75-300 in terms of image quality (but not as high as the L lenses). |
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05/17/2005 12:54:29 PM · #13 |
Sorry to hear about your health problems, SDW65. I don't have a suggestion other than don't get the 75-300 IS as you'll experience the same problems...it was teh first IS from Canon and the focus is pretty slow. And yea, sounds like your shutter was too slow for most people to get a clear shot, even without health problems. I know I've learned I can't shoot below 1/90 hand held while zoomed. |
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05/17/2005 12:57:16 PM · #14 |
At a focal length of 184mm, the usual 'rule of thumb' would give us a required shutter speed of around 1/300 of a second. This is some 5 times faster than the one used in the example. Using iso 800 might get your shutter speed high enough, but if you have any problem holding the camera steady, the rule of thumb goes out of the window, as it is for the 'average' case, so you would need an even faster shutter speed.
The 70-200 2.8 at f2.8 would give you a shutter speed twice as fast as the f4 lens at f4, but I believe that it is noticeably heavier and the IS version is heavier still. Do bear in mind that the 75-300 IS is incredibly slow focussing compared to the 70-200L.
Regarding the 70-300 DO IS, I believe that it's relatively light, so this might be a reasonable solution (but for the price, of course).
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05/17/2005 12:59:10 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by SDW65: Originally posted by thatcloudthere: That photo says it was taken at 1/60 at a focal length of 184mm...It would tough for most people not to experience camera shake without support... |
So do you think, in your opinion, that the amount of camera shake in the above picture at it's focal length and SS is about normal for most people?
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In short, yes...If that had been my 80-200 f/2.8 I would have taken it at ISO 200, f/2.8 at 1/250. With your lens (and being able to rest my arm on the car) I would have gone ISO 200, f/4 at 1/125.
Edit: Another tip in low light is to use a 3 shot burst mode and to use the second or third shot as it will usually be the crispest. That assumes that your timing doesn't have to be precise.
Message edited by author 2005-05-17 13:01:04.
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05/17/2005 01:07:40 PM · #16 |
It was a while back, but when I looked into selling my lens back to B&H in the past ... it was an insult. They don't exactly pay you what the lens is worth. Ebay will get you almost all of your money back. I forgot the numbers, but I had my 70-200mm f4L for about 7 months before e-baying it ... only lost about $50.00. |
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05/17/2005 01:28:49 PM · #17 |
Hey Scott (SDW65),
I keep having the same camera shake issues with my 400mm
It's a lens I don't have a lot of experience with and I keep blurring everything from 300-400. (I dont think your trouble is you shaking). I've considered selling my lens as well because I keep telling myself it's the lens, or I just don't shoot that type of stuff and I should just get rid of it. The truth for me... It's not the lens, Its a good lens, I just need to learn how to use it. I found this article a few weeks ago. I hope it helps you too.
Focal Length Blur
The suggestions everyone has offered you in this thread are good places to start. I have started to enjoy my lens a little more now. I think the biggest help for me was to up the ISO to 400+ when I use it.
(Gringo seldom uses a tripod, but don't tell anyone). |
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05/17/2005 02:12:20 PM · #18 |
Thanks to everyone for your replies, comments, and concers. You all are Great. Thanks for the help and I will try to fine tune my way of shooting and see if it helps.
What a great community of people. :)
Thanks,
Scott W. |
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05/17/2005 03:31:28 PM · #19 |
Here is a little inspiration for you Scott:
I think if these types of crystal clear shots are possible, we should certainly be able to correct a little camera shake by setting the camera up a little better, don't you agree?
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05/17/2005 04:26:14 PM · #20 |
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05/17/2005 05:26:36 PM · #21 |
ISO did help:
100% Crop ISO 100
100% Crop ISO 200
100% Crop ISO 400
100% Crop ISO 800 [forgot to adjust amp. comp]
100% Crop ISO 1600
ISO 200 and 400 seems to me to be the best. What do you think?
Message edited by author 2005-05-17 17:30:13. |
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05/17/2005 06:52:10 PM · #22 |
Originally posted by SDW65: ISO 200 and 400 seems to me to be the best. What do you think? |
I agree. XT seems to do well at higher ISO's. That was a lot less hassle than exchanging lenses.
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