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02/22/2005 09:47:29 PM · #1 |
I have a Minolta A1, 5.2 mp and so on....
How, first off, can you tell if the photo your about to take is sharp using the manual focus?
Seems to me that you cant QUITE tell if its in full sharpness due to lack of the pixels in the viewfinder.
And for my last few submissions I have gotten a few comments thats its not quite sharp.
I have been using the auto focus and its about as good as i can get.
They have been somewhat macro shots but still not REAL sharp.
Any suggestions?
I know there is ALLOT of great photographers on here that can do allot better with less megapixels so a little help in advancing my photography would help me greatly!
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02/22/2005 09:52:58 PM · #2 |
you know iam not a expert but i certaintly wouldnt mind knowing the anwser this my self from what i heard it has alot to do with the lens i think... but dont qoute me. another thing is the camera atleast on fuji models will let you know when the picture is focus and i sometimes when doing macro shots enlarge a spot on the lcd screen to see a bigger image of what iam actually going to shoot so i can really see details not so sure about other cameras though maybe post processing could help or the cameras internal sharpness features iam sure you probably thought of these things but every 2 cents counts ...
leon
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02/22/2005 10:00:32 PM · #3 |
I had the Dimage 7 for quite a while and always had similar problems. It is capable of taking a sharp photo, so that's not the problem. But as you said, it's impossible to tell through the LCD if it's perfectly sharp or not while shooting. The only thing I found that helped was to judge by the lighting conditions and camera setting and hope for the best.
Sorry this is no help.
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02/22/2005 10:06:56 PM · #4 |
I'd suggest using a sturdy tripod and a remote, if your cam takes one. On a DSLR, locking the mirror helps too.
If you must hand-hold, use a high shutter speed. I often walk around with my cam set on Tv (Shutter Speed Priority) at 1/1000 sec, just watching the aperture. Depending on the lens, I'd like to see the aperture near its 'sweet'spot, usually within two stops above f/5.6. The rest is hunting light, the right light.
That's only one way of doing it, but I think it's a good way to start.
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02/22/2005 11:55:03 PM · #5 |
I do have the option of a remote shutter which i am planning on investing in but I have shot in some good light with a tirpod and still not quite sharp.
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02/23/2005 12:00:50 AM · #6 |
| Try using the self-timer to actually trip the shutter. As for being able to tell on the LCD if its sharp or not? That's tough. Maybe take a shot and magnify the view, see if its sharp. |
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02/23/2005 12:08:08 AM · #7 |
| look through the viewfinder, i dont think u could judge a good manual focus to perfection through an LCD screen. |
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02/27/2005 03:18:46 PM · #8 |
| I had the same problem with my minolta diamage 7i, iwas going to purchase the Minolta A1 but instaed I purchased the Fuji S7000. The fuji has a better resolution in the view finder and my problem was solved instantly. I dont think there is a good solution using the Minolta and I am speaking from actualy owning one. In fact my Minolta is for sale. |
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02/27/2005 04:33:45 PM · #9 |
| Without an optical viewfinder w/focus, following zueszen's advice is about the best that you can do. |
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02/27/2005 04:38:50 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by ChasSourek:
I have a Minolta A1, 5.2 mp and so on....
And for my last few submissions I have gotten a few comments thats its not quite sharp.
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This may not be a focussing issue, rather a matter of sharpening in post-processing. Generally, once a picture is downsized for entry, a little extra USM is required and can really add a little 'pop'.
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03/12/2005 10:23:25 PM · #11 |
I'm not sure I can give you advice on how to focus on distant objects (over 5ft) but as for macro its a piece of cake.
First of all zueszen has the best tip when it comes to high shutter and high aperture.
The method I use (given to me by the great macro photographer Todd Muskopf //www.muskopf.org ) was the bobbin method.
Basically what you do is pre-set your manual focus to a certain distance and bob in and out (if handheld). When you do this, focus goes in and out because you're either too far or too close. It is quite easy to judge the distance between too far and too close when doing this. Once the picture is the crispest you can get it, in between the to extreems... slowly and steadily fire!
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