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06/23/2002 03:03:58 AM · #1 |
I've always liked the look of running water photos (such as waterfalls) taken with a slow shutter speed, that really give a feeling of movement to the water. My question is, how would I go about taking these during the day with my Canon G2? If I set the shutter speed to anything over half a second (or even less), and put the F-stop all the way down to 8, the image is still way to bright, to the point where you can't even see anything. The exposure compensation feature helps a bit, but I still don't think I'd be able to get a long enough shutter speed to get the flowing water effect. What is a good shutter speed to achieve this? Maybe I'm under the impression you need a longer exposure than is really required.
Brian |
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06/23/2002 03:30:52 AM · #2 |
Hi Brian,
I don't know much about the settings on your camera or it's capabilities, but if you can match these settings, give it a try. I will usually take several shots in a row dropping the shutter speed each time until i achieve the desired result. It works a little different for me each time depending on the ambient light.
1/1600 sec – f/2.8
ISO 125
Stop Action
1/25 sec – f2.5
ISO 125
Nice blur
The color between these two photos is very close. |
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06/23/2002 05:52:30 AM · #3 |
Unfortunately you average digital camera wont close the aperture any more than F8 and the shutter speed is limited to at least 1/1000 of a sec. When limited to these options the best thing that I̢۪ve found is to wait until the sun is starting to set, or at least when the sun isn̢۪t at its maximum brilliance. It really all comes down to trial and error. Once you get a feel of how you camera performs in bright and low light situation, only then will you get the results you are expecting.. Good luck.
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06/23/2002 08:59:59 AM · #4 |
| Get an lens adapter so you can attach filters to your G2. Put on a neutral density filter (or 2) which will reduce the amount of light entering the camera. It's sort of like sunglasses for your camera. Alternately, you can use a polarizer. Set the aperture to f/8, and you will be able to get a longer shutter speed to blur the water. |
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06/23/2002 09:25:23 AM · #5 |
Who makes the best lens adapter? I was probably going to get one eventually, as I'd like one of the telephoto lens attachments at some point.
Brian |
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06/23/2002 11:41:50 AM · #6 |
| I have a Canon Elan 2E and a Fuji 4900Z. I have found that Raynovox makes the best adapter tubes and rings. I generally only use Tiffen filters, so these are great because they work on both my Canon, and Fuji, that way all of my filters are bought at the same size for both camera's. |
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06/23/2002 12:28:44 PM · #7 |
I use a Lensmate adapter and a 52 mm step up ring from the 49 mm of the lensmate so I can exchange filters with my film camera which has a 52 mm thread.
A good circular polarizer and maybe a warming filter to offset the blue cast of the polarizer.
A uv filter(clear) for general protection is a good idea and an infrared filter for cool black and whtie shots. |
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06/23/2002 12:43:49 PM · #8 |
| Canon's adaptor is the LA-DC58 which screws into the lens mount after the trim ring is removed. It allows the use of the Canon extension lenses and also any 58mm filter. The circular polarizer mentioned above would work great, and also a neutral density filter. Get a ND2 or ND4 which will give a 1 or 2 stop reduction in exposure. The polarizer should give a 2-3 stop reduction depending on it's setting. As for your question about lens quality, the reason I got the Canon is that I originally got some 'special deal' and it was like the lens was made out of the bottom of a Coke bottle. Don't get the cheapest filters either. Digital seems to be less forgiving of any color cast in the filters and you'll be tearing your hair out trying to bring your photos back in Photoshop. |
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06/23/2002 12:54:06 PM · #9 |
You could possibly stack a neutral density filter with a polarizer as well.. I have not had the best luck doing this however...
The best time to do it is when the skies are overcast or even while it's raining...
I know a guy who does professional waterfall photos and he has two books on it. You can look at his stuff at Kevin Adams Photo. He has some really impressive photos in his collection. He specializes in North Carolina, Virginia, and West Virginia waterfalls.
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06/23/2002 01:17:50 PM · #10 |
Shooting motion in daylight is always a challenge. My camera will stop down to an F/9, and I found that I can get effective with a 1/90 section exposure in many situations, though in some cases I'll get overexposed areas (see Preakness for an example). I would bet that overexposure would be a problem for your subject, though, as water tends to reflect a lot of light.
Is there any reason you need to shoot in direct sunlight? Besides the filters mentioned, a shot at dawn/dusk or under light to moderate cloud cover might give you the extra time you need.
-Terry
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06/23/2002 01:44:50 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by hokie:
A uv filter(clear) for general protection is a good idea and an infrared filter for cool black and whtie shots.
Hokie -
Do you use an IR filter with your G2? How does it work? I've heard the G2 is no good at IR photography, so I've held off on buying any filters.
- Mike
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06/23/2002 03:05:06 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by hokie:
I
A good circular polarizer and maybe a warming filter to offset the blue cast of the polarizer.
For the G2, if you don't already own a circular polarizer, you can use a cheaper linear polarizer. (The circular is designed for the focusing systems of AF SLRs, but the G2 uses a different type).
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06/23/2002 05:23:18 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by Kimbly:
For the G2, if you don't already own a circular polarizer, you can use a cheaper linear polarizer. (The circular is designed for the focusing systems of AF SLRs, but the G2 uses a different type).
Yes, that is true. I knew I had a few 52 mm thread filters for my film camera I could use with my G2, including a circular polarizer.
I have not purchased an IR filter yet but had wanted to for a long time. I did not know that the G2 could not do IR. I'll be sure to try it out before laying down the bucks.
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06/23/2002 05:55:33 PM · #14 |
| Some of these cameras are better for IR than others. I once had a Nikon 950 and the sensor on that one worked well, but the 3mp. sensors don't seem to do as well. I'd be interested in hearing if anyone with that Sony DSC-F707 has tried it. The hi-pass filter can be clicked out of the optical path I think, which might make it work better. Just for the hell of it, I tried a cheap IR filter made out of a piece of exposed slide film. I begged a runed 4 x 5 piece of Provia 100f that the guy forgot and developed before he shot it, so it was black. Slide film passes far IR light (or it'd burn up in a slide projector). I just stuck it in front of my lens on a tripod and shot. It really does give an IR effect, but you need to shoot full manual exposure and focus. If I remember it was something like around f4.5 at 1 second in bright sunlight, but no guarentees:) |
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