Nikon D70 Double-exposure fonctionality

Nikon AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor 200-400mm f/4.0G IF-ED

11/12/2004 08:20:44 AM · #1

I've been trying this for a few times, but i don't think i'm doing it right, as i can't seem to get the desired effect.

The effect i'm trying to do is keep the shutter open for a certain amount of time, then add the flash to the exposure, before finalizing the shot.

Can anyone help me with this issue?
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spydr

Nikon D850

11/12/2004 08:36:53 AM · #2

Try settting the shutter time in "M" manual mode and using "rear curtain flash".

Nikon AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor 200-400mm f/4.0G IF-ED

11/12/2004 08:44:00 AM · #3

Doesn't seem to be what i'm looking for, unfortunatly.
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spydr

Nikon D850

11/12/2004 08:58:15 AM · #4

Is there an image on the site that is an example of the effect your trying to get?

When you say "add the flash", do you mean with editing software? If so what program do you use?

Gordon

RIM BlackBerry Curve

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

11/12/2004 09:00:36 AM · #5

What you are describing would be 'rear curtain sync' flash and requires a reasonably long shutterspeed and usually a moving subject to be effective.

Try something like 1/30s and shoot someone running past you in daylight.

This will give you the 'motion trails' plus sharp subject look, if that is what you are after.

A key part of this is to realise you are taking _two_ exposures in one. You have to expose for the ambient (non-flash) light. This is controlled by the shutter speed and aperture you select.

You are also creating a second exposure at the same time, with the flash light. This is controlled by the aperture you select and the flash power/ duration (and not the shutter speed at all)

The aperture is common to both exposures, the shutter speed controls the motion trails and lets in the ambient light (room lights, sunlight etc) If it is too low an exposure, you'll not see any of the surroundings.

The flash exposure can be adjusted by changing the flash power or the flash exposure compensation, along with the aperture (though that changes the ambient exposure as well)

It's a balancing act and often gets called 'dragging the shutter' when you slow the shutter speed down enough to mix the ambient and flash results on a single shot.

Nikon AF Zoom-Nikkor 35-70mm f/2.8D

11/12/2004 09:09:29 AM · #6

I think its something like this: //www.dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=57218 The only difference is that i want to use the camera's (or slave) flash to freeze the image after a 'long' exposure.

Its mostly used in sports like Mountain Bike magazines, where bikers use a flashlight. It Creates a trail of light, but the biker stays frozen by the flash.

It sounds very close to what Gordon is explaining. There is a long exposure, and 'another' with the flash, which freezes whatever is in front of the camera.

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Message edited by author 2004-11-12 09:12:06.
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eugene

Nikon D700

11/12/2004 10:08:13 AM · #7

For this you may need long exposure. 10 seconds or more... You should position the subject in complete darkness, set the camera on a tripod, have the subject hold a light source (flashlight or a candle....) Set the camera to Manual, Bulb exposure with rear curtain sync. Open the shutter, have the person move the light source in the desired pattern, and immediatelly after the movement is complete release the shutter. The flash will fire right before the shutter closes.

You will have to experiment with the F Stop, and you will have to focus manually before the shot.

My co-worker just did a shot like this here:
//shotbychris.com/photoblog/index.php?showimage=1

He used an off-camera flash to allow the subject to be farther from the camera, but you dont need it if the subject is close. Good luck.

Message edited by author 2004-11-12 10:12:46.