I think the word shithole was invented for Mbeya. Dirty, polluted, disease ridden, garbage everywhere and unwholesome feeling. We arrived at sunset and got directions to the Moravian Church Hostel. (We spent many nights in Church hostels, originally for Missionaries, now for any traveller. They are, on the whole, clean and safe.) We finally got there on some very dodgy streets, past some very dodgy locals, to be told the hostel was full. We sort of stood there, looking pathetic, until I said ‘Can we camp?’ It was not usual, but I think we looked so sorry for ourselves that they relented. So we camped in the parking lot, behind the Chico. But, it was safe, locked and guarded. Mbeya was the first time I have really felt scared on this trip. It just felt bad.
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