Not HDR, I tried and I can't get it to work, LOL. I copied a layer of the photo and set it to multiply, then masked out the effectin te foregound and the water. Abunch of burning and dodging to the lighthouse. Then I used a levels to brighten the image and masked out only to affect the foreground rocks, then burned and dodged those I think.
This image is actually a prime candidate for tone mapping and/or HDR. I'd love to have a go at it from the original. There seems to be a misconception among a lot of people that HDR means "exaggerated" and it simply doesn't have to be that way. Here's a version I worked on by creating varying 16-bit tiffs from your entry, creating a quasi HDR image from that, and tone mapping the result. It has its limits because of the small original size and the fact that it is created from an already-processed image, but I think you can agree it's pretty faithful to your original, and perhaps you will agree it shows more potential for bringing out texture in the sky. What do you think?
This looks far better than it would HDR, in my opinion. HDR has a few limited uses but for the most part, straight old-fashioned editing results in a better picture - more real to my eyes. You've done a wonderful job with this one. And duplicating a layer and setting to overlay for blending mode is a handy thing, too - try that as well.
This photo makes me want to sit in the lighthouse with a bowl of clam chowder and watch the storm roll in ... this has a great sense of being alone with nature ... very well done ...
Love the dark sky and the tiny house on the rocks. gives the impression of how small we really are, compared to nature. I'm sure this photo rocks on a large printed format!! nice job!