Made with my homemade homemade fisheye camera. This was an accidental quadruple exposure, with just enough overlap to make it look like a badly stitched panorama. What I thought was a full frame advance turned out to be only half. Thematically, it sort of works. These were all taken on Pittsburgh's South Side, along the railroad tracks near Station Square.
I would encourage you to view the full size version (only ~310KB); I'm surprised at how sharp some of the images are.
Expired Kodak Gold 100, home developed using the Rollei/Digibase C-41 kit.
Another beauty, looks like the middle bridge is part of the machine which interacts with the half bridge to the right. Happy accidents and happy outcomes.
Actually the overlap makes it look more like a deliberate montage than the bad pano you suggest -- I like the effect. Consider some selective tone adjustments to even it out -- I think it'll look great.
Another way would be to put a little springy item inside the camera that would line up with the sprocket holes and click as the holes move along. You could then listen or feel, to count the "clicks" in order to know when the film is advanced far enough for the next frame.
Thanks Waddy. That's exactly what I'm doing (see last night's post in the " Unconventional filters..." thread). Problem is the clicks weren't very audible. I think I fixed it.
To me, it looks a lot more interesting than a technically classy stitched pan. The way the images slosh into each other is great, creating their own world of fantasy to stir the imagination. Definitely good stuff.
My thoughts are that if you wish to work out a way to have the advance calibrated a little better, you may try spooling a roll of 35mm film exposed with a regular camera into this camera, so you can see how far you have to turn the film advance to move ahead one frame. Check near each end of the roll, and if it's a lot different at the long end and short end, adjust as you go and maybe it will work out.
Another way would be to put a little springy item inside the camera that would line up with the sprocket holes and click as the holes move along. You could then listen or feel, to count the "clicks" in order to know when the film is advanced far enough for the next frame.
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