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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> which 77mm Circular Polarizer Filter?
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 03/27/2010 11:17:35 AM · #1
Hi, I'm looking into getting a 77mm Circular Polarizer Filter for my Tokina 11-16mm. I look around and there are so much different types. I'm not sure which one is the best? Can someone with experience give me new guy some advice? Thanks!
 03/27/2010 12:03:22 PM · #2
On a lens that wide you need a low-profile filter. Ordinary polarizers will vignette a bit. Typically the low profile filters are very expensive. Hoya makes a decent one at roughly $80.00: the "Pro 1 Max". There are others. Google "Low Profile Polarizing Filters".

R.
 03/27/2010 01:21:46 PM · #3
Your local Ritz camera should have some as well, in varying degrees of performance and price. I use several of their higher end Quantaray polarizers now and they work just fine.

Good luck!
 03/27/2010 01:36:11 PM · #4
Nikon sells a CP that is good but pricey as you would expect from them.

Here's the link 77mm Circular Polarizer

Message edited by author 2010-03-27 13:41:15.
 03/27/2010 01:50:41 PM · #5
I got a Kenko low profile one, black metal... awesome.

Kenko's are made in the same factory as Hoya's, just branded differently, but they function identically. Mine was 40 GBP for a 77mm.
 03/27/2010 01:58:08 PM · #6
Originally posted by Tez:
I got a Kenko low profile one, black metal... awesome.

Kenko's are made in the same factory as Hoya's, just branded differently, but they function identically. Mine was 40 GBP for a 77mm.


do it has any vignetting? Can u put on the cap with it on? is this the one ur talking about?

//cgi.ebay.com/KENKO-77mm-PRO1-Digital-Cir-Polarizer-77-CPL-by-Hoya_W0QQitemZ400076440517QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCamera_Filters?hash=item5d266a03c5#ht_4410wt_939

Message edited by author 2010-03-27 14:02:01.
 03/27/2010 01:58:56 PM · #7
Originally posted by glad2badad:
Your local Ritz camera should have some as well, in varying degrees of performance and price. I use several of their higher end Quantaray polarizers now and they work just fine.

Good luck!


I can't find the "Pro 1 Max" anywhere.
 03/27/2010 02:00:11 PM · #8
On a lens that wide the polarizer can do some weird stuff due to the distortion introduced by the lens. Polarization will not be uniform across the image.

Hoya has several grades of CP filters and you really do get what you pay for. The more coatings the better.

As long as you get the slim filter there should be no vignetting. Despite the possibility of non-uniform polarization I do use a polarizer on occasion on my 10-22 lens and get no vignetting with a slim filter.

Message edited by author 2010-03-27 14:02:02.
 03/27/2010 02:25:17 PM · #9
Originally posted by cpanaioti:
On a lens that wide the polarizer can do some weird stuff due to the distortion introduced by the lens. Polarization will not be uniform across the image.


Let me clarify this...

It's not a matter of "distortion introduced by the lens" in any way. No, it's much simpler than that; when shooting skies, a polarizing filter has its optimum effect at 90 degrees from the light, and progressively less effect as you shoot more into, or away from, the light. Because these ultrawide lenses have a horizontal coverage in excess of 100 degrees, it follows that the amount of polarization will vary dramatically across the width of the image. However, it's nothing that can't easily be corrected by applying a gradient mask keyed to the polarized sky color/density in post production, if it is an issue on a given image.

R.
 03/27/2010 02:39:13 PM · #10
I'm looking at the Hoya 77mm Circular Polarizer (HMC) from H&B but I don't know if its slim or not. What do u guys think about that one?
 03/27/2010 04:22:04 PM · #11
I got a Marumi DHG low profile 77mm when I started getting vignetting on my 14mm lens and it solved the problem on that and my 12-24. Very good filter at a good price. I got mine from the Filter Connection ... good prices and great service.

I went with the DHG version which is just 5 mm high and still has front threads so you can still use a lens cap. It works great for a bit under $70; there's a multicoated version as well (Super DHG) for about $115 as well.
 03/27/2010 04:51:26 PM · #12
B&W makes higher quality polarizers and theirs have brass fittings. Here is a slim one making it a pretty good deal...

B&W 77mm Slim Circular Polarizer Filter 77 mm
 03/27/2010 06:34:19 PM · #13
A good article on filters in general:

//photonotes.org/articles/filters/
 03/27/2010 09:52:27 PM · #14
Originally posted by MegaColor:
I'm looking at the Hoya 77mm Circular Polarizer (HMC) from H&B but I don't know if its slim or not. What do u guys think about that one?

I've got this one and find it works pretty well for my 10-20. The bigger problem is what Bear mentioned, the variation in the angle relative to the sun. If you get one of these, you might also consider getting a filter wrench because those thin filters can be a pain to get off, especially the circular polarizers which rotate as well.
 03/28/2010 08:41:15 AM · #15
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
... when shooting skies, a polarizing filter has its optimum effect at 90 degrees from the light, and progressively less effect as you shoot more into, or away from, the light. Because these ultrawide lenses have a horizontal coverage in excess of 100 degrees, it follows that the amount of polarization will vary dramatically across the width of the image. ...

Just to add to what Bear_Music said...
When shooting landscapes with a polarizer you always want to be check the position of the sun to take full advantage of the 90 degree angle for maximizing the polarizing effect when desired. Just repositioning your main subject 30 degrees or so with respect to the sun to achieve a 90 degree angle can have a very dramatic effect.

It goes without saying that for landscape photographers readjusting your polarizer before every shot should become habit. And don't forget to check its effect on light reflected off surfaces such as water.
 03/28/2010 10:24:52 AM · #16
Originally posted by Artifacts:

It goes without saying that for landscape photographers readjusting your polarizer before every shot should become habit. And don't forget to check its effect on light reflected off surfaces such as water.


To elaborate on that: the way a polarizing filter actually works is to eliminate "scattered light" and admit only light rays traveling in a specific, parallel direction, basically. What this means in real-world terms, aside from darkening skies (by eliminating scattered light rays from atmospheric dust, moisture, etc; ever notice how BLUE the skies are in the mountains?), is that the polarizer will tend to increase saturation on surfaces, *especially* vegetation. By eliminating all the light reflecting off of leaves etc, it allows the colors to show through undiminished.

This is generally a very good thing in landscape photography, but there's sometimes a problem with water surfaces; if you maximize polarization on near water surfaces, sometimes there IS no surface anymore, the water becomes transparent to the eye. This is why fishermen wear polarized sunglasses, but it's not always good for photographers; as often as not, you NEED that surface for your image to work. be aware, also, that the "correct" polarization angle for the water's not always the same as the angle that produces maximum polarization in the sky.

R.
 03/29/2010 08:51:41 AM · #17
Would some one be able to explain the difference between the normal CP and the slim version? I have a FF camera and a 17-40mm lens. Would the slim version be better over the normal one?
 03/29/2010 07:46:30 PM · #18
Originally posted by wolf:
Would some one be able to explain the difference between the normal CP and the slim version? I have a FF camera and a 17-40mm lens. Would the slim version be better over the normal one?


The difference is the depth (how much it will stick out from the lens). Also, not all slim CP filters have threads though that would defeat the purpose anyway as attaching pretty much anything to a slim filter will introduce vignetting.
 03/29/2010 09:02:53 PM · #19
Hmmm...but from what I've read the slim will reduce vignetting under 24mm. But which would be better to get? The normal or the slim? Or does it not really matter?
 03/29/2010 11:52:18 PM · #20
What do you think you need? Do you shoot with lenses wider than 24mm?
 03/30/2010 01:08:59 AM · #21
get a slim. What's good now might not be good in the future, so for that reason spend the money once on a slim one instead of just buying a slim one later.

My Kenko one is about 3mm high, does not vignette on a 17-40 L (on full frame).

The good ones aren't cheap, and the ones that are cheap are cheap for a reason.
 04/03/2010 10:43:35 PM · #22
I got a CP filter but should I get a UV filter also?
 04/04/2010 01:52:06 AM · #23
it's good to have both so your lens is always protected. when you're shooting later on in the day, or in a dark environment, a polarizer won't be much good as it lowers your exposure by 1-2 stops depending on the brand. So when it gets to be that way, swap the CPL for the UV and at leats you have protection.

I wouldn't use them both at the same time... I mean, you can, but it's a pain in the ass taking one off and not the other and also, I think this creates more flare, aberrations and reduces sharpness.
 04/04/2010 02:13:35 AM · #24
Using both will also defeat the point of having a slim filter and likely introduce noticeable, if not strong, vignetting.
 04/04/2010 12:33:02 PM · #25
A lens hood is generally better protection than a filter. Also, even later in the day a polarizer will help with colour saturation. A tripod is useful to overcome the slower shutter speeds required when using a polarizer in low light.

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