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DPChallenge Forums >> Tips, Tricks, and Q&A >> Calling On 300D Experts/Users!
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04/30/2004 10:42:55 AM · #1
Hello 300D-ers!

I have a few questions that I hope someone here will be able to answer for me.
1. Is there a way I can choose all the AF points instead of one or auto?
2. Can I do mac fotog with any lens or do I need a mac lens? If I use a mac lens, Do I have to put it on mac settings? Any help here would be great.
3. What WB settings are good for low light, night shootings?

I know I had more but I can;t think of them right now. Any help would be great & Thanks much in advance!
04/30/2004 10:46:19 AM · #2
No !
You can select one or put all 7 in active mode for fast action shots,but only one will get selected by the camera !

You can do macro with any telephoto lens and you don't have to select macro program.
Before you buy Telephoto lens for macro check the "lens focusing distance" !
Sigma 105 F2.8 have 4.5 inches focusing distance.
Canon 200 mm f2.8 have 5 feet focusing distance.

Message edited by author 2004-04-30 10:50:13.
04/30/2004 10:53:09 AM · #3
A-DEP will choose as many AF points as it can to achieve a proper exposure (as evaluated by the camera's light meter). The camera will set the aperture and shutter speed accordingly.

As far as I know this works the same on the Rebel as on the 10D.

Your manual should give some information about this mode.

I tend to shoot in RAW with auto white balance most of the time. Custom white balance, if available, is the other option I would suggest for low light or night shooting.

Macro by definition is closeup photography so you need to get as close as your lens allows to still achieve focus. You do not need a lens that is designated as a macro lens to do this. If your lens has a setting for macro use it as it will allow you to get closer to your subject.


04/30/2004 11:06:08 AM · #4
Originally posted by cpanaioti:

A-DEP will choose as many AF points as it can to achieve a proper exposure (as evaluated by the camera's light meter). The camera will set the aperture and shutter speed accordingly.

Actually that's not the purpose of A-DEP at all.

A-DEP is intended to automatically set the depth of field. In that mode, a half-press of the shutter button measures the nearest and farthest items underneath the 7 AF points. The idea being that if you can compose your shot so that both the closest element you want in focus and the furthest element you want in focus are underneath one of the AF points, the camera will determine the correct aperture setting so that everything between the near and far points is "in focus".

A-DEP is a "crippled" version of the "DEP" mode found on the high-end Canon bodies. On those bodies, you can pick the near/far objects at-will by recomposing (instead of having to have the objects in question under the AF points).

Also, in terms of AF point selection:

If you have more than one AF point selected/active, the camera will always choose to focus on whatever object is closest. It is possible for multiple focus points to be highlighted simultaneously if they are relatively close in terms of distance.

My preference when shooting the 10D was to move AF to the "star" button (instead of half-press of the shutter button), have the center AF point selected by default, and register all 7 AF points as my "home point" so that I could quickly toggle between center AF point focusing (by pressing *) or 7-point "auto" by pressing the "assist" button (which is just to the left of *, so just by moving my thumb, I could very quickly switch focusing modes). Moving AF to the * button also had benefits when using E-TTL flash in certain situations. See my previous post on this in the Tips & Tricks forum for more info.

If you are new to Canon DSLR's, you may want to check out Canon's Digital Learning Center. Lesson 15 is on understanding autofocus; Lesson 13 is on close-up photography.

Message edited by author 2004-04-30 11:33:43.
04/30/2004 11:41:14 AM · #5
Originally posted by EddyG:

Originally posted by cpanaioti:

A-DEP will choose as many AF points as it can to achieve a proper exposure (as evaluated by the camera's light meter). The camera will set the aperture and shutter speed accordingly.

Actually that's not the purpose of A-DEP at all.



I may not of stated it properly but the camera is actually trying to bring into focus all objects under the 7 AF points and will highlight the points that it was actually able to achieve focus on.
04/30/2004 11:55:17 AM · #6
Originally posted by EddyG:

A-DEP is a "crippled" version of the "DEP" mode found on the high-end Canon bodies. On those bodies, you can pick the near/far objects at-will by recomposing (instead of having to have the objects in question under the AF points).


This is one of the most frustrating things about Canon (but not just them). I certainly don't consider my Elan II to be a high-end Canon body, yet it has the useful DEP feature; this body cost me a few hundred dollars. My D60 has the dumbest feature ever put on a camera body (A-DEP) and a multitude of other features which might normally be considered high-end (they are certainly not low-end); this body cost me thousands of dollars.
04/30/2004 12:13:12 PM · #7
Okay, this is very helpful stuff guys.

I have the 75-300 IS USM lens, the 18-55mm kit lens & my brand new 50mm lens for portraits.
Are we saying that any of these lens can be used for mac fotog or just the 75-300mm which I have to be 4.9 cm away for? And is it better to use the mac settings or not?

I want try stuff out this weekend for trial but would like to be prepared for it. Thanks again!
04/30/2004 12:30:27 PM · #8
There are some (and pitsaman seems to be in this camp) that consider anything "close up" is a macro. However, macro photography is usually restricted to the 1:1 (or lifesize) capture (with a little play in that range).

I'm not sure what you need, but there's a cost effective way to reverse your 50mm lens for good macro work. Alternatively, look into one of the many excellent macro lenses available. The Sigma 105mm/2.8 and Canon 100mm/2.8 are both excellent and double as telephoto lenses (i.e. they can focus to infinity). I have the Sigma 105mm, but would highly recommend the Canon instead.

There's also the strange, but wonderful Canon MP-E 65mm lens, which is a dedicated macro lens (it cannot focus to infinity); it'll give you between 1 and 5 times magnification.

Message edited by author 2004-04-30 12:30:52.
05/01/2004 01:04:55 PM · #9
Originally posted by Rooster:


Are we saying that any of these lens can be used for mac fotog or just the 75-300mm which I have to be 4.9 cm away for? And is it better to use the mac settings or not?



Any lens can essentially be used for macro if you can get close enough. BTW, the 75-300 IS USM lens has a minimum focusing distance of 4.9 feet (@300mm) not cm, not exactly macro range. Your kit lens probably allows you to get much closer. To allow you to get closer with this lens you need one of the following, an extension tube, bellows, closeup filter or an adapter so you can mount your 50mm lens backwards on the front of the lens.
05/01/2004 01:10:19 PM · #10
c,

you are right. it is 4.9 feet. My bad. I'm going out to test things out & see what I can do with what I have. Will report back dear friends!
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