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 12/18/2008 06:03:37 PM · #1
yes, I know that there are a lot of theads on this subject but I have a question about the cameras and the filters for IR photography. I have a canon 400d and I know that there are camera that have more attitude to capture IR light. I don't want remove the filter near the sensor and I would find a way for capture a true IR image. (probably after the capture I'll don't like the effect but I am curious. someone could tell me if my camera is good for this photography? and what is the best IR filter?
 12/18/2008 06:11:04 PM · #2
You CAN do IR pictures with Canons, it's just the exposures will be quite long. I haven't done it myself, but I've heard we're talking 8 to 30 seconds for a typical scene. Judi uses Canon doesn't she? Maybe she can weigh in. I'd love to do some IR work too, but I'm thinking of finding an old 300D or something and converting it.
 12/18/2008 06:15:36 PM · #3
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
You CAN do IR pictures with Canons, it's just the exposures will be quite long. I haven't done it myself, but I've heard we're talking 8 to 30 seconds for a typical scene. Judi uses Canon doesn't she? Maybe she can weigh in. I'd love to do some IR work too, but I'm thinking of finding an old 300D or something and converting it.


Doesn't Judi use a D70 for her IR work?
 12/18/2008 06:16:42 PM · #4
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
You CAN do IR pictures with Canons, it's just the exposures will be quite long. I haven't done it myself, but I've heard we're talking 8 to 30 seconds for a typical scene. Judi uses Canon doesn't she? Maybe she can weigh in. I'd love to do some IR work too, but I'm thinking of finding an old 300D or something and converting it.


No....I use the Nikon D70s for my IR. I have tried the Canon...but they are long exposures and not the coloured variety. I would love to know if some of the later Nikons do the coloured IR as good as the D70s.
 12/18/2008 06:22:24 PM · #5
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
You CAN do IR pictures with Canons, it's just the exposures will be quite long. I haven't done it myself, but I've heard we're talking 8 to 30 seconds for a typical scene. Judi uses Canon doesn't she? Maybe she can weigh in. I'd love to do some IR work too, but I'm thinking of finding an old 300D or something and converting it.


I have an old 300d, it have the shutter break(after every shot i must open the lens and manually move the strips). the convertion process of the camera is a difficult operation? where i could find some good tutorial?
 12/18/2008 06:28:20 PM · #6
300D IR Conversion

Looks like a bitch compared to how easy it was to do my D1.
 12/18/2008 06:41:41 PM · #7
Originally posted by Anti-Martyr:
300D IR Conversion

Looks like a bitch compared to how easy it was to do my D1.


mmm don't seems difficult..... the only thing is find the ir filter...without that filter don't work?
 12/18/2008 06:52:50 PM · #8
Originally posted by Rino63:
Originally posted by Anti-Martyr:
300D IR Conversion

Looks like a bitch compared to how easy it was to do my D1.


mmm don't seems difficult..... the only thing is find the ir filter...without that filter don't work?


LifePixel sells just the filters to replace your hot mirror. They also will do the conversion for extra cost as well.

Message edited by author 2008-12-18 18:53:09.
 12/18/2008 06:53:07 PM · #9
I have been wanting to try this with my D50. I always forget to look at the filters when I am at the camera store. Was just there yesterday to return my brand new but very disfunctional D3 for a refund because they didn't have an exchange in stock. (That camera was born retarded) Now I am trying to decide if I want to wait and save up for a newer model or order another D3 online. I didn't have the D3 long enough to love or hate it so perhaps I will give it a second chance.
 12/18/2008 07:07:15 PM · #10
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
You CAN do IR pictures with Canons, it's just the exposures will be quite long. I haven't done it myself, but I've heard we're talking 8 to 30 seconds for a typical scene. Judi uses Canon doesn't she? Maybe she can weigh in. I'd love to do some IR work too, but I'm thinking of finding an old 300D or something and converting it.


I'll let you know how the conversion is when I get mine back from LifePixel. 7 working days and counting...

I used to do it with my 300D. It was a LOT better than the 30D, but the exposure was still way too long. An average well lit scene at 200 ISO still ran me about 6 secs. And that was at 3-4.5 ap with stuff far away. Closer stuff needed a higher aperture for the focus shift which of course increased the exposure time. Put it this way - the 30D really wasn't worth the aggravation for the result. The 300D did pretty well considering.

Message edited by author 2008-12-18 19:08:09.
 12/18/2008 08:17:24 PM · #11
TrevyTrev gave me a POO7 filter and I have just started to play around with it. :)
I am using this on a Nikon D50. The filter is barely opaque with a red cast. The exposures are long as well. A problem I have encountered is light bleeding and reflecting on the inside of the filter and causing odd color flares and reflections since the white balance is set to the grass with the filter on. I have some black wrap(black aluminum foil) that I am going to take with me to wrap around the filter keep light from getting in next time.
Here is one from today.


12/18/2008 08:22:11 PM · #12
Originally posted by jdannels:
A problem I have encountered is light bleeding and reflecting on the inside of the filter and causing odd color flares and reflections since the white balance is set to the grass with the filter on. I have some black wrap(black aluminum foil) that I am going to take with me to wrap around the filter keep light from getting in next time.
Here is one from today.


The sigma 10-20 is known to hot-spot with IR photography, unfortunately. I could still see that you're getting some good results, though.
So far, out of the lenses that I have tried, the stock 18-55 (d50) lens is excellent, and I was extremely pleased to find out that my most recent purchase of the nikon 10.5mm fisheye is also excellent for IR (but of course needs a converted camera).

ETA - yup, a quick look at the colour version of your shot definitely shows that dreaded hot-spot. What time of day did you take that? I've noticed that the hot spot is worse with the sun behind you (afternoon for example), and slightly better at noon-ish.

Message edited by author 2008-12-18 20:24:27.
 12/18/2008 08:26:03 PM · #13
Originally posted by Dudski:
Originally posted by jdannels:
A problem I have encountered is light bleeding and reflecting on the inside of the filter and causing odd color flares and reflections since the white balance is set to the grass with the filter on. I have some black wrap(black aluminum foil) that I am going to take with me to wrap around the filter keep light from getting in next time.
Here is one from today.


The sigma 10-20 is known to hot-spot with IR photography, unfortunately. I could still see that you're getting some good results, though.
So far, out of the lenses that I have tried, the stock 18-55 (d50) lens is excellent, and I was extremely pleased to find out that my most recent purchase of the nikon 10.5mm fisheye is also excellent for IR (but of course needs a converted camera).


Thanks for that bit on the 10-20, on some other images I took it is really apparent. I thought it might be caused from natural light bouncing in between the filter and lens, but I guess not. I still have my 18-55 lens still and the Tamron 17-50, so I will try those too. :)
 12/18/2008 08:36:14 PM · #14
I'll just stick with my Sony F707 for infrared...only takes the flip of a switch and screw on the filter...unless really sunny, then I stack an ND8 on with the R72 Hoya.


12/18/2008 09:03:16 PM · #15
Originally posted by jdannels:

Thanks for that bit on the 10-20, on some other images I took it is really apparent. I thought it might be caused from natural light bouncing in between the filter and lens, but I guess not. I still have my 18-55 lens still and the Tamron 17-50, so I will try those too. :)


On the cemetery shot it is from light leaking around the filter. The light bouncing around in the lens gives you a central hot spot. You can't see it in most of my posted shots here but the Tamron 28-80 has it bad. Light leaking around the edge shows up as a streak or flares at the edges. I used a sock with the toe cut out to block mine and was given endless ribbing at a GTG for it. Works though... :)
 12/18/2008 09:09:12 PM · #16
Originally posted by jdannels:
Originally posted by Dudski:
Originally posted by jdannels:
A problem I have encountered is light bleeding and reflecting on the inside of the filter and causing odd color flares and reflections since the white balance is set to the grass with the filter on. I have some black wrap(black aluminum foil) that I am going to take with me to wrap around the filter keep light from getting in next time.
Here is one from today.


The sigma 10-20 is known to hot-spot with IR photography, unfortunately. I could still see that you're getting some good results, though.
So far, out of the lenses that I have tried, the stock 18-55 (d50) lens is excellent, and I was extremely pleased to find out that my most recent purchase of the nikon 10.5mm fisheye is also excellent for IR (but of course needs a converted camera).


Thanks for that bit on the 10-20, on some other images I took it is really apparent. I thought it might be caused from natural light bouncing in between the filter and lens, but I guess not. I still have my 18-55 lens still and the Tamron 17-50, so I will try those too. :)


JD, your right about the light bouncing around between the filter and the lens, I forgot to tell you what I did to stop that. I took a hand towel with me and I would drape it over sides of the filter system thus blocking any light from getting in there, pretty much stopped that problem.
 12/18/2008 09:09:16 PM · #17
I started out with a Sony F717. Then I tried the R72 on my Canon (5D, 20D - don't remember which one). It's not the Canon model - it's the lens. Some will take the filter with good results and some yield a hot spot.
Later I bought a converted Canon XT and love the ability to change lenses as I wish and use normal shutter speeds. There are days I just walk around with my IR camera and love the results.

There are three places that do conversions:
Lifepixel
Maxmax
and I had mine done by Jim Chen at
Jim Chen Photo
And here is a list of IR-friendly Canon lenses...IR Lenses Page

12/19/2008 03:31:17 PM · #18
Originally posted by trevytrev:
Originally posted by jdannels:
Originally posted by Dudski:
Originally posted by jdannels:
A problem I have encountered is light bleeding and reflecting on the inside of the filter and causing odd color flares and reflections since the white balance is set to the grass with the filter on. I have some black wrap(black aluminum foil) that I am going to take with me to wrap around the filter keep light from getting in next time.
Here is one from today.


The sigma 10-20 is known to hot-spot with IR photography, unfortunately. I could still see that you're getting some good results, though.
So far, out of the lenses that I have tried, the stock 18-55 (d50) lens is excellent, and I was extremely pleased to find out that my most recent purchase of the nikon 10.5mm fisheye is also excellent for IR (but of course needs a converted camera).


Thanks for that bit on the 10-20, on some other images I took it is really apparent. I thought it might be caused from natural light bouncing in between the filter and lens, but I guess not. I still have my 18-55 lens still and the Tamron 17-50, so I will try those too. :)


JD, your right about the light bouncing around between the filter and the lens, I forgot to tell you what I did to stop that. I took a hand towel with me and I would drape it over sides of the filter system thus blocking any light from getting in there, pretty much stopped that problem.


Ah, excellent, you learn something new every day.
So does that mean my 10-20 isn't useless for IR? I figured anything that appeared near the center of the shot was the hot-spot issue.

How could this be the case though, given that the filter screws pretty well onto the lens? I'm surprised that any amount of light can even get through there.

One thing I did try to eliminate problems, unsuccessfully, was to use the piece of plastic that could be put on the viewfinder to block any light from enterering from the other side..
 12/19/2008 03:47:46 PM · #19
Originally posted by Dudski:
Originally posted by trevytrev:
Originally posted by jdannels:
Originally posted by Dudski:
Originally posted by jdannels:
A problem I have encountered is light bleeding and reflecting on the inside of the filter and causing odd color flares and reflections since the white balance is set to the grass with the filter on. I have some black wrap(black aluminum foil) that I am going to take with me to wrap around the filter keep light from getting in next time.
Here is one from today.


The sigma 10-20 is known to hot-spot with IR photography, unfortunately. I could still see that you're getting some good results, though.
So far, out of the lenses that I have tried, the stock 18-55 (d50) lens is excellent, and I was extremely pleased to find out that my most recent purchase of the nikon 10.5mm fisheye is also excellent for IR (but of course needs a converted camera).


Thanks for that bit on the 10-20, on some other images I took it is really apparent. I thought it might be caused from natural light bouncing in between the filter and lens, but I guess not. I still have my 18-55 lens still and the Tamron 17-50, so I will try those too. :)


JD, your right about the light bouncing around between the filter and the lens, I forgot to tell you what I did to stop that. I took a hand towel with me and I would drape it over sides of the filter system thus blocking any light from getting in there, pretty much stopped that problem.


Ah, excellent, you learn something new every day.
So does that mean my 10-20 isn't useless for IR? I figured anything that appeared near the center of the shot was the hot-spot issue.

How could this be the case though, given that the filter screws pretty well onto the lens? I'm surprised that any amount of light can even get through there.

One thing I did try to eliminate problems, unsuccessfully, was to use the piece of plastic that could be put on the viewfinder to block any light from enterering from the other side..


JD id using a Cokin P-series filter system that holds square filters that slide in and out so there is a tiny gap between front lens element and filter. Screw on filters are a whole different ballgame and if you are still getting a hot spot then it's your lens. FWIW, I have used multiple lenses that have been poorly rated for IR with no issue. The canon 16-25f/2.8 and canon 10-22 have both been cited as having hot spots and I have not experienced that issue.
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