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11/20/2008 01:44:32 PM · #1 |
What is the APO?
APO version
Non APO
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11/20/2008 01:45:39 PM · #2 |
| The sigma site is a good place to start for descriptions of their acronyms. |
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11/20/2008 01:47:44 PM · #3 |
Already tried. Website is not loading
Message edited by author 2008-11-20 13:48:33.
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11/20/2008 01:50:34 PM · #4 |
Found the UK site
//www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/lenses/lens-tech.htm
Message edited by author 2008-11-20 13:50:40. |
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11/20/2008 01:56:58 PM · #5 |
Thanks. Trying to convince my step father he does not need IS on a 70-300mm lens.
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11/20/2008 02:04:46 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by James: Thanks. Trying to convince my step father he does not need IS on a 70-300mm lens. |
At 300mm IS can be quite useful. |
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11/20/2008 02:20:25 PM · #7 |
yeah in low light situations.
Sigma 70-300 at $200
Canon 75-300 IS at $500
I was trying to save him $200 by telling him to buy a monopod.
Message edited by author 2008-11-20 14:20:35.
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11/20/2008 02:23:46 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by James: yeah in low light situations.
Sigma 70-300 at $200
Canon 75-300 IS at $500
I was trying to save him $200 by telling him to buy a monopod. |
IMHO the difference in the two lens regardless of IS or not is worth the $$$ IS is just a bonus.
Matt
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11/20/2008 02:24:29 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by James: yeah in low light situations.
Sigma 70-300 at $200
Canon 75-300 IS at $500
I was trying to save him $200 by telling him to buy a monopod. |
With those lenses, low-light can be broad daylight, especially if you don't want to shoot wide open. |
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11/20/2008 02:28:21 PM · #10 |
I just purchased the Sigma 70-300mm for canon, without the IS. It has great reviews. I figured that a tripod is a must when using long focal lengths to appreciate the impact small tremors can have on the image blur.
Be informed though: to have this large focal range, there is bound to be shaking blurs unless you use a tripod or IS. I would go for tripod anyday... since I dont plan to use it for sports or action photography. Plus it doesnt matter for an amateur like me if at the pixel level there is some motion/shaking blur.. others may have a different opinion.
By the way, APO stands for ApoChromatic as a property of the glass used to make the lenses. This property is said to reduce the chromatic aberration (color fringing). It has nothing to do with image stabilization.
Message edited by author 2008-11-20 14:42:16. |
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11/20/2008 02:29:42 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by Prash: I just purchased the Sigma 70-300mm for canon, without the IS. It has great reviews. I figured that a tripod is a must when using long focal lengths to appreciate the impact small tremors can have on the image bur.
Be informed though: to have this large focal range, there is bound to be shaking blurs unless you use a tripod or IS. I would go for tripod anyday.
By the way, APO stands for ApoChromatic as a property of the glass used to make the lenses. This property is said to reduce the chromatic aberration (color fringing). It has nothing to do with image stabilization. |
Depending on your use, a tripod may get in the way. Try using a tripod for shooting birds. |
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11/20/2008 02:33:03 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by cpanaioti: Originally posted by Prash: I just purchased the Sigma 70-300mm for canon, without the IS. It has great reviews. I figured that a tripod is a must when using long focal lengths to appreciate the impact small tremors can have on the image bur.
Be informed though: to have this large focal range, there is bound to be shaking blurs unless you use a tripod or IS. I would go for tripod anyday.
By the way, APO stands for ApoChromatic as a property of the glass used to make the lenses. This property is said to reduce the chromatic aberration (color fringing). It has nothing to do with image stabilization. |
Depending on your use, a tripod may get in the way. Try using a tripod for shooting birds. |
That is true. What I am saying is this: some people just run for IS the moment they hear the term without realising why it is needed. If one understands the fact that there will be shaking errors at long focal lengths, they can then pick IS or tripod, whichever suits their budget and use-case. And if one's use case is not as demanding as shooting for fast moving animals/birds/sports, a tripod is well worth saving a few 100 bucks.
That said, one of my experienced photog friends actually showed me how to use a good tripod when shooting birds. He keeps the degrees of freedom on all axes loose enough so he can fast manipulate the camera freely, still based on the tripod. It works amazingly, but I cannot do it yet;-)
Message edited by author 2008-11-20 14:40:47. |
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11/20/2008 02:53:21 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by Prash: [
That is true. What I am saying is this: some people just run for IS the moment they hear the term without realising why it is needed. If one understands the fact that there will be shaking errors at long focal lengths, they can then pick IS or tripod, whichever suits their budget and use-case. And if one's use case is not as demanding as shooting for fast moving animals/birds/sports, a tripod is well worth saving a few 100 bucks.
That said, one of my experienced photog friends actually showed me how to use a good tripod when shooting birds. He keeps the degrees of freedom on all axes loose enough so he can fast manipulate the camera freely, still based on the tripod. It works amazingly, but I cannot do it yet;-) |
Most of the time shooting wildlife especially BIF the biggest factor in support actually has nothing to do with camera shake as much as it has to do with lens weight. Most serious wildlife photographers use 400mm or longer lens, and the weight factor of a day of shooting is way too much for even the manliest of men. Most will still opt for a monopod over a tripod, unless you have a very expensive head and bracket system.
Matt
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11/20/2008 03:05:40 PM · #14 |
I suggested a monopod and that is what I use for my Sigma. I will be shooting wildlfe in the morning and if I think about it I will post up here.
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