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07/25/2008 07:36:26 PM · #1 |
get super crystal clear images? I've used my kit lense on people, and its not as sharp as I would like it to be. I am still new to all of this so I have a lot to learn, would changing my settings or is there a 'secret setting' i should know about. I know how to use my camera pretty well.
Or is it my glass?
What lense would you recommend |
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07/25/2008 07:38:38 PM · #2 |
Probably your lens... invest in a good L lens.
Or just switch to Nikon. |
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07/25/2008 07:40:38 PM · #3 |
Zooms will not be as sharp as primes so you can buy a prime lens like the 50mm f/1.4 or the 100mm f/2.8 for super sharp images...also use a tripod if shooting under low light conditions.
Also, check to see what focus points your camera is focusing on...they may be focusing on an object behind or in front of your subject. |
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07/25/2008 08:13:05 PM · #4 |
A couple of general rules:
1) A lens is generally at it's sharpest a couple of stops down from wide open. In other words, if wide open means f/2.8, then the lens will be at it's sharpest at about f/5.6 or so. If wide open on your lens means f/5.6, then you won't get to the sharpest image captures until about f/11.
To that end, I've set up an illustration on a Lens Comparison site comparing the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L lens against the Canon EF-S 18-55 f/4.5-5.6 lens. As you first get to the site, it is showing you the image quality you can expect when using the Canon 24-70 lens at 50mm and f/5.6 (which is already two stops down from wide open). When you hover your mouse over it, it will change to show you the image quality you can expect when using the EF-S 18-55 lens at 50mm and f/5.6. Remember that this lens is "wide open" at 50mm and f/5.6. Notice the difference in sharpness and contrast.
2) Better class truly makes a difference.
Going back to the same web site, try changing the aperture for the EF-S 18-55 lens (top right corner of the page) to f/11, you can see that it gets sharper. But it still isn't as sharp as the 24-70 f/2.8L lens. What you're really seeing there is a difference in the quality of the glass. The EF-S 18-55 lens is a fairly cheap lens. The 24-70 is an $1100 lens. There truly is a difference.
3) Primes are sharper than zooms.
Try this comparison Canon 24-70 2.8L versus Canon 50mm 1.4. Both lenses are at 50mm and both are at f/5.6, but the 50mm 1.4 is obviously sharper. Drop both lenses to f/2.8 (top left and top right) and notice that the 24-70 is now really hurting by comparison (remember that, at f/2.8, the 50 1.4 is STILL two stops down from wide open).
Message edited by author 2008-07-25 20:31:16.
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07/25/2008 08:19:03 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by LanndonKane:
Probably your lens... invest in a good L lens.
Or just switch to Nikon. |
LMAO!
 dwterry said it all, just make sure your focus is spot on and that your shutter isnt so slow that your catching movements. I.e. above 1/80th or so. EIther that or make sure your subject is very still.=^) |
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07/25/2008 08:22:05 PM · #6 |
| Before deciding that the lens is the problem, take the above advice on f-stops and stabilizing the camera. With an SLR, you can get away with a fairly high ISO in order to use the narrower aperture and still maintain a decent shutter speed. I normally use ISO 400 as my default, adjusting as needed. Expensive glass is certainly better if you can afford and justify it, however the kit lens is capable of taking good photos as well. If you are shooting in auto mode, learn how to use the others that give you more control. I mostly use aperture priority now, but sometimes use manual when dealing with tricky conditions. |
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07/25/2008 08:37:51 PM · #7 |
Same camera as you I shoot in raw in P mode and roll the wheel to set my dof
Get a 50mm 1.4 sharp as a tack. here are some of my shots with it. Make sre you manualy set the autofocus point right on the subjects eyes. I try to use about an f4.0 to f5.0 to really make it sharp
just get it lol |
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