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DPChallenge Forums >> Photography Discussion >> Metering Mode for Studio Work
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07/25/2008 02:29:25 PM · #1
Hi All,

Please can anyone suggest which metering mode I should opt for in a studio - using plain back or white back drops.(and a 40D)...

all advice appreciated

Thanks

07/25/2008 02:44:36 PM · #2
With plain white or black backgrounds your best bet would be with spot metering or partial if doing head-shots.
If your lighting is consistent try using a grey card to spot meter and lock your exposure or shoot in manual mode.
07/25/2008 04:51:43 PM · #3
In a studio setting with strobes Manual mode is the way to go.
07/25/2008 06:24:25 PM · #4
If you're using strobes, then there's no way to "meter" the scene with your camera because the lights flash so briefly that the camera's meter doesn't see the light.

To meter strobes, you need a light meter. (a "flash" light meter)

Or, you can use an 18% gray card and take a picture of it. Then center the spike in the middle of your histogram.

07/25/2008 07:00:22 PM · #5
Originally posted by doctornick:

In a studio setting with strobes Manual mode is the way to go.


Is there another way "in studio?"

Light (flash) meter is the best way as dwterrysaid. You can get away with starting around F8 and playing with the shutter speed. but to get the exposure perfect its a flash meter all the way. generally i use sport or center weighted depending on what i am trying to achieve.

Hope this helps.
07/25/2008 07:15:34 PM · #6
Originally posted by onesaint:

Originally posted by doctornick:

In a studio setting with strobes Manual mode is the way to go.


Is there another way "in studio?"

Light (flash) meter is the best way as dwterrysaid. You can get away with starting around F8 and playing with the shutter speed. but to get the exposure perfect its a flash meter all the way. generally i use sport or center weighted depending on what i am trying to achieve.

Hope this helps.


Shutter speed stays constant to sync with the flash, usually 1/200. You play with the aperture and the power of the lights. I start at F8 and go from there as I dont have a light meter. But playing around a little will yield fine results.
07/25/2008 07:41:17 PM · #7
Originally posted by thegrandwazoo:

Shutter speed stays constant to sync with the flash, usually 1/200. You play with the aperture and the power of the lights. I start at F8 and go from there as I dont have a light meter. But playing around a little will yield fine results.


As far as I know, that is the general sync speed. However, my AB800s can sync up to 1/1600th or so. also at the lowest setting 1/32 they can sync up to about 1/300th.

I generally adjust the shutter to whatever I am trying to achieve (drops, model, etc.) and find F8 to usually be a good starting aperture. That being said, I am still fairly new to studio work and am constantly learning.
07/25/2008 07:52:46 PM · #8
Yeah, because strobe light is so fast (thousandths of a second), the shutter speed has absolutely nothing to do with the "exposure" as far as the strobes are concerned (unless you push your shutter speed beyond sync speed, then you'll see a black "band" across your image because the shutter wasn't entirely open during the strobe exposure).

So, you use shutter speed to determine how much "ambient light" you want to let in. The slower the shutter speed, the more you'll be able to see things like fire in a fire place, or lights on a light stand, etc. And you use aperture to determine how much "strobe light" you want to let in.


07/25/2008 08:09:32 PM · #9
Originally posted by dwterry:

So, you use shutter speed to determine how much "ambient light" you want to let in. The slower the shutter speed, the more you'll be able to see things like fire in a fire place, or lights on a light stand, etc. And you use aperture to determine how much "strobe light" you want to let in.


Couldnt have expressed it better myself (and i tried!). =^)

I need to have you with me to communicate my thoughts to my wife! LOL

ETA: That isnt to say that there isnt a sync speed. And when you have your shutter speed, the way to be able to aquire/lessen the light is to adjust the aperture like thegrandwazoo said.

I hope this all makes sense to the OP.

Message edited by author 2008-07-25 20:13:15.
07/25/2008 08:33:49 PM · #10
Originally posted by onesaint:

I need to have you with me to communicate my thoughts to my wife! LOL


Uh, no... I've found that I can talk tech all I want. But when it comes to communicating with the female species, I fail as miserably as the next guy! ;-)

07/25/2008 08:36:25 PM · #11
Originally posted by dwterry:

Originally posted by onesaint:

I need to have you with me to communicate my thoughts to my wife! LOL


Uh, no... I've found that I can talk tech all I want. But when it comes to communicating with the female species, I fail as miserably as the next guy! ;-)


No kidding and mine came with a manual the problem is she keeps rewriting it...

:-P
07/25/2008 09:20:26 PM · #12
Originally posted by thegrandwazoo:

Originally posted by dwterry:

Originally posted by onesaint:

I need to have you with me to communicate my thoughts to my wife! LOL


Uh, no... I've found that I can talk tech all I want. But when it comes to communicating with the female species, I fail as miserably as the next guy! ;-)


No kidding and mine came with a manual the problem is she keeps rewriting it...

:-P


LMAO!

This went from "Metering Mode for Studio Work" to "help me talk to the female gender!" =^D
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