Headshots for Actors - Advice Needed

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

04/03/2008 12:34:21 AM · #1

I volunteered to do headshots for one of my son's theatre groups. It's "A Chorus Line", so they need them for the performance as well as the show's program.

Especially because the show is about actors holding their headshots on stage, they need to be as authentic looking as possible.

Now, I'm beginning to worry a bit about lighting. I have to shoot at one of their rehearsals, and I don't really have any lighting equipment (or for that matter, a real white backdrop). When I went to where they were rehearsing, I noted that in the front reception area, there's a nice sized window, which may provide nice indirect light, but of course, I won't have control over it for whatever day they choose to do the shoot.

Anyway, I'm guessing someone here is experienced in taking actor's headshots. So I'd love any advice on on-site lighting techniques for the "equipment challenged".

Yep, I don't currently have any lighting equipment. My "basement" setup is just awful halogens from Home Depot. I've been wanting to get some more "proper" equipment--some lights, umbrellas, stands, softboxes--but since I don't really use it much I'd want to keep the cost down (around $200 is ok; more if it's something I see more "use" for).

I see some umbrella and continuous lighting kits at BH that aren't expensive, e.g.,

Impact 1 Light 500W Umbrella Kit (120V), Impact, 1 Light Umbrella Kit - consists of: 1- 12" Reflector with Socket, ... more info

and in fact, for around $99 I can get a two light set.

But then I was beginning to think about buying a flash for my D80 (I sold my Canon flash when I switched systems). Perhaps get the SB-600 and a stand and umbrella or softbox attachment? But then I'd only have one light (well, that and the on camera flash). I started looking at the Strobist website last night, and they had an interesting setup described on taking advantage of a "corner", where you use a remote flash, stand and umbrella, and one wall as the reflector. That sounded interesting. (The downside of buying the SB400 though is that I hated my Canon 480EX because it was big and made the camera "unbalanced". The SB-400 looks like it would solve that for me, but it's not remote controllable!) (Hmmm, I wonder how the SB-R200's work with umbrellas and softboxes--are they powerful enough? Or could I get decent results for headshots with the SB-400 and a Lumiquest mini softbox on camera?)

BTW - The only 70mm-ish lens I have to shoot with is my Nikon 18-200 VR. But aside from it being about F5 at 70mm, it's a great lens. I did some practice shooting with my son using just my Halogen work lights in the basement, and I'll post one or two shortly for any feedback and advice about that.

Edit: Ok, here are my test headshots for feedback:

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(These are straight from lightroom, no crops. I would fix the shadow on his chin in PS, but of course, the lighting will be totally different there! Even with my shop lights and a sheet diffuser, I had to shoot this at ISO 400.)

Message edited by author 2008-04-03 00:44:44.

elsapo

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Canon EF 50mm f1.2L

04/03/2008 01:29:11 AM · #2

I dont know much about light setup for actor headshots but it sounds to me that taking photos by the window with a reflector would probably work.

Melethia

Canon EOS-80D

04/03/2008 01:46:00 AM · #3

I agree with the window and the reflector, but you probably will be using a highish ISO. Figure if you use a tripod you can shoot to 1/60th if the actors hold still. You may want to ask Claire (

lovethelight) - I think she's done a lot of this and can probably be of assistance.

Message edited by author 2008-04-03 01:46:32.

04/03/2008 09:31:02 AM · #4

Thanks Deb and Justin. I'll look into reflectors as well.

Any pro, semi-pro or experienced actor-head-shooters here?

Quigley

Nikon D700

04/03/2008 10:19:38 AM · #5

Neil natural light head shots work great. I find that a silver reflector works wonders for boy/men and a gold works for girls/women. This however is not always the case but about 90% of the time. I do a lot of head shots and I would look for a texture background if you don't have a drop. If you use your 18-200 I would look for brick if you have some around. Something like this:

our son Isaac
This one is with a white background

and this is the brick in B&W

our son Caleb

It gives a fullness to the shot and takes you to the face. You have a 50mm 1.8 for your cannon I know that you would have to get a little closer but that has worked for me in low light before. You also have a 70-300 that works well too and allows you to be back from the person. Set it for 70mm which is about 87mm digital and your off to the races.

For the most part I use my 70-200 2.8 VR and the results are great.

Our entire family are professional actors and as a result I get a lot of fall off business for head shots. I know that I haven't posted a lot in my portfolio but I find that there is just something personal about them but I'm getting increasing pressure from my wife to set up a folder in my portfolio so I'll most likely succumb to the pressure soon.

I'm not a pro but I have done lots (a few 1000 at least) of head shots and I do all our community theatre productions the same as what your doing for yous son. You'll find that B&W will be your best bet and if your trying to get them as close to what we use in the industry. The head shots I print up for my clients are 8x10 on 8-1/2x11 paper with a black border and their name at the bottom about 1/2" high all in capital letters and don't forget your name and copyright in the black border.

I hope this helps and I'm sure that they are in great hands and everything will work out fine.

Looking through your portfolio I have years and years to go to catch up to your level of photography so if I can make people look good you will mack them look GREAT.

Break a leg Neil.

All the best to you and yours.

MAX!

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

04/03/2008 08:01:43 PM · #6

Thanks Max. I think they want a white background for these, but the brick is very nice!

The issue with natural light to me is that it will be unpredictable--the weather's not warm enough yet that we can shoot outside, and I didn't even bring my camera with me last time, so I don't even know if the light from the window was sufficient. Perhaps I can do that in two weeks--I'm not sure when the shoot will be scheduled, but the play isn't until May.

But I wouldn't mind having some lighting equipment.

One option would be to go with this monolight and umbrella, and perhaps use a wall or a reflector.

Or would I be better off going with a SB-600, and buying an umbrella or softbox attachment + stand?

Either way, I'll have to bounce or reflect for the fill.

I have been reading through this thread as well... and whatever else I can find.

The advantage of the monolights seems to be that you have a modeling light to work with. But the flash even with stand and umbrella is pretty portable, and maybe would be of more use (e.g., even outdoor fill).

Message edited by author 2008-04-03 20:03:01.

Nullix

Canon EOS-5D Mark III

04/03/2008 11:16:19 PM · #7

I would highly suggest reading strobist site. Especially Lighting 101: Headshot in a corner.

Enjoy

bucket

Canon EOS-30D

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

04/03/2008 11:41:52 PM · #8

Actor headshots are done outside almost as much as in studio. There is nothing wrong with heading out, and you already know enough as a photographer to avoid busy backgrounds etc., so take a reflector, find the right spot and shoot there. There is going to be a warm enough day to shoot outside..please (I have some outdoor shots to get in). Make sure the actors wrap their face up in a scarf, whip it off for the shoot, you will have a blast.
Canadian actors don't even know it is cold outside.

Quigley

Nikon D700

04/03/2008 11:45:38 PM · #9

Hey Neil sorry to take so long to get back to you I was in Toronto for a call back audition for a GMC spot and then I had to go to rehearsal for a musical I'm in so I just got your post. Enough about me.

The mono light and umbrella are great along with the reflector. If you already own the SB600 you could use the TTL feature off camera and the addition of the umbrella and stand for it would be great. The soft box would work to of course but if your thinking ahead for outdoor fill I think the umbrella would be better suited to you for that and it works great in doors as well. If you find it to be too bright just bring along some white fabric and some cloths pegs and clip the cloth on the umbrella to tone it down some. I've done that before myself and have been very happy with the results.

Heck I've even used a table lamp on its side and bounced the light up to remove shadows with one of my reflectors. I've used 4 De Walt flashlights and reflectors as well. Don't be afraid to try tings you will be amazed at the stuff you will come up with and the results you'll get.

My lighting set up right now is small but it works great both inside and out. I use my SB600 and a mono home user kit that my wife and two boys got me for Christmas this year so I could retire the flash lights. M1401 Kit look here

I think that if you do the mono light and the umbrella and stand for your lighting you'll find that you will have a good little lighting rig for now and it will give you lots of light for what you were thinking of using it for.

There are plenty of people on this site with a heck of a lot more experience than me with this I hope some of them weigh in and can help you with as well.

Here is a flashlight shot setup for a B&W side challenge I did

and this is how it turned out

I know not people but you get the idea.

I hope I've shed some light on the situation for you and not muddied the water.

Oh and I would definitely check out the two links that

Nullix has posted they are vary helpful.

All the best to you and yours.

MAX!

Quigley

Nikon D700

04/03/2008 11:47:53 PM · #10

Originally posted by bucket:

Canadian actors don't even know it is cold outside.

Hey I resemble that remark:)

MAX!