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01/30/2008 06:59:27 PM · #1 |
Basically what i said in the title :)
I had no choice in the camera I recieved but really love the HDR images i have seen around and i have no RAW function.
I dont have much control on bracketing the shots on this camera (Sony H9) yet;Not sure if i actually can control it fully manually as I havent properly used it yet!
I have found a tutorial - //www.flickr.com/photos/cleever/255026221/ and my next question is, is it legal to do this in advanced editing or any of the other challenges?
Thanks for any help- i did try searching for it but couldnt find a definitive answer
Message edited by author 2008-01-30 19:10:41. |
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01/30/2008 07:07:04 PM · #2 |
Yes, it's possible with one JPG, just not as useful.
You can bracket manually. Requires a bit of doing while not moving the camera at all.
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01/30/2008 07:33:34 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by Zodiac:
next question is, is it legal to do this in advanced editing or any of the other challenges? |
For HDR you need the tone information from other exposures of the same scene. However, you can fake it - but it needs to be done in Advanced not Basic.
Open the JPG. Dupe layer. Change exposure downwards until you've got the very lightest areas nicely exposed (before blowing out details, or as you prefer). Rename layer UNDER or something natty. Dupe original layer. Do the same again but this time change exposure upwards to get the very darkest areas nicely exposed. Rename OVER. You've then got 3 layers with different tonal info from the same scene.
At this point you can either save the layers separately and play with Photomatix, or use CS3 (if you have) to HDR it. Alternatively, mask off the exposure areas and play with gradient blends to achieve the exposure you want in different parts - I call them exposure layers but there's probably a proper term for them.
In my experience you get better results doing it for real and bracketing heavily - but wonders can be worked under Advanced if you're not too heavy handed with it (as I'm starting to find)
N
EDIT: Wukong Beta also does 1 image HDR I think...it's free whilst in beta so check it out...
Message edited by author 2008-01-30 19:37:13. |
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01/30/2008 07:38:08 PM · #4 |
Yes.
Thats a linky to a recent thread describing how I did it (basically what  Quasimojo describes, but using levels to adjust the exposure), and showing some of the results. |
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01/30/2008 07:48:04 PM · #5 |
Here are some methods that I have found work VERY well.
A) HMS
1) Create 3 separate curve layers, each one masked with:
- Highlights
- Midtones
- Shadows
2) Gently, adjust the curve layer for the shadows. Don't worry if it looks a little wierd, you'll fix that in step 3. Next, adjust the Midtones accordingly. Finally, adjust the highlights.
3) Next, apply a gaussian blur to the mask in the shadows layer, adjust the sliders so you get a feel for the contrast range. Do the same with the masks for the other two layers.
4) Click on the mask for the shadows layer, hit Control-M (curves adjustment). Adjust the curves of the mask so you get the appropriate contrast. Do the same for the other two layers.
5) You now have an image with increased range. Now, you may want to add some shadow, midtone, or highlight saturation. Or saturation by color, or basically any mix. Just keep following the same procedures.
6) Sometimes, the first round will be horrible, until you get a feel for the image and the data that is there. Experiment with the different layers. Use levels instead of curves. Be creative. Paint masks with gray, black, or white to fit appropriately.
B) You can also use the Shadow/Highlight tool to do those steps above, but you get much greater control with the masks and layers.
C) You can duplicate the background. Then, apply an Equalize function to the duplicate. Set the duplicate to soft light and back off the opacity.
D) Set a curves layer. Set the blending to luminosity. Adjust the curves. Apply a mask, pretty much following A).
There are MANY other methods. Everyone has an opinion, try each one out, see what works best for you. No one method will work for every photo. Personally, I dislike the photomatix plug in because of the loss of control over specific areas that I want to bring out, or hide. |
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01/30/2008 07:53:21 PM · #6 |
Fantastic help!
Thanks everyone :)
Yes i do have CS3 - another brand new thing to play with, so ill have a look at the tutorials for these when im actually on a pc - not a phone!!!
I dont have photomatix yet, so ill try with just photoshop for now.
Again thanks for the fast replys and the very useful information.
Im going to sleep now will think about this in the morning :-) |
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