Methods for Automatic Tonal Adjustments

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

12/27/2007 09:45:51 AM · #1

Here are two methods I have been experimenting with to help automatically adjust the tonality of photos (using Photoshop)

Let me know what you think. Basically, I find that either of these two methods work for over 95 % of photos, with one method often having slightly better results.

Scenario: Often when using E-TTL, or manual metering, a photo will be exposed so that the histogram covers the entire tonal range (i.e. histogram is smooth from low to high). This creates a balance image with certain areas under and over exposed. When shooting a large number of photos, its helpful to have an automation technique to balance the tonal range. Auto Contrast rarely works well.

Method #1 - Shadow Highlight
Apply the Shadow Highlight adjustment with
Shadow 20%, Tone Width 50%, Radius 2500
Highlight 10%, Tone Widtth 50%, Radius 2500

Method #2 - Equalize Histogram
Apply the Equalize adjustment
Fade the adjustment to 25% using Normal opacity

dwterry

Canon EOS-1D Mark III

12/27/2007 10:06:45 AM · #2

I've never found an automated method that works with every photo. The computer simply cannot know the intent of the image. Sometimes I capture a dark image and it is supposed to be dark. Sometimes I catch a bright image that is supposed to be bright. There's no way for the computer to tell the difference.

My own workflow is as follows:

1) Import images into Adobe Lightroom, applying a "preset" that I've come up with that mostly matches my style in terms of color, contrast, exposure, etc.

2) Then in library mode, showing the images full screen, I quickly go through the imported images and rate them (usually just 1 or nothing).

3) Then I filter based on the rating (i.e. show only those images rated a 1) so that I can quickly move through only those images that I liked.

4) Then in develop mode, I go through each of these images and adjust exposure, white balance, shadow detail, highlights, saturation, color (sometimes b&w) and cropping. I move through these fairly quickly looking to create "proofs" of everything in the shoot.

5) Then I export to jpeg. And that's it. I don't photoshop anything unless a customer purchases it, or if I decide I want to be creative with it (which isn't very often due to lack of time).

Anyway .... my point is, none of the above is "automatic". Every image can be different. When I see a series of images of the same thing or the same general scenario, I can apply my changes to all of them at once, and that saves a lot of time. But still, every image is visited and acted upon individually rather than in batch mode.

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

12/27/2007 10:25:13 AM · #3

Yeah, I take that approach too, especially when I am shooting RAW. I don't have lightroom so those actions you refer to are applied in Bridge (for me) but only to RAWs.

The actions I had mentioned bascially work for the majority of photos, well enough so that the images can be shared and are easy on the eye to the "Average" viewer.

I totally agree with you, and I spend quite some time on getting the ones I like best to a more "perfect" state.

Do you shoot RAW or JPEG?

dwterry

Canon EOS-1D Mark III

12/27/2007 11:04:00 AM · #4

Raw for everything ... except sports.

If I were shooting low volume sports images (just trying to get the perfect image) I'd probably shoot raw. But my goal when I'm shooting sports is to get images that mom will buy. And there are a lot of moms. And so I shoot a lot of images.

I must admit, when it comes to sports I go more of an automated approach to most things simply due to the number of images involved. In fact, the actions I use are probably fairly close to what you described.

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

12/27/2007 11:10:55 AM · #5

Cool....I'm starting to shoot more and more RAW. In fact, my sister, who is 8 months pregnant wanted a side profile with her husband. She was wearing a white shirt. I shot RAW, recovered the highlights perfectly.

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

12/27/2007 11:44:23 AM · #6

Dupe BG layer, "apply image" in soft light mode, fade opacity â�� often sets tonal range very nicely.

R.