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10/15/2007 11:55:33 AM · #1 |
How do they compare?
With my 50mm on 62mm of extension tubes, actually beat 1:1, getting about 1.2:1 magnification.
I also can shoot at a usual range of apertures, from 1.8 to 22.
So magnification and exposure aren't the issue, it's DOF.
How does the DOF vary among all options for getting to 1:1? Do macro lenses have deeper DOF than lenses on extension tubes? And how about reversed lenses?
Thanks!
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10/15/2007 12:00:26 PM · #2 |
Originally posted by levyj413: How do they compare?
With my 50mm on 62mm of extension tubes, actually beat 1:1, getting about 1.2:1 magnification.
I also can shoot at a usual range of apertures, from 1.8 to 22.
So magnification and exposure aren't the issue, it's DOF.
How does the DOF vary among all options for getting to 1:1? Do macro lenses have deeper DOF than lenses on extension tubes? And how about reversed lenses?
Thanks! |
Assuming a constant aperture for all of the variations, DOF is solely a function of magnification. |
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10/15/2007 12:06:29 PM · #3 |
I'm going to post a writeup on my experience with my 50mm reversed on my 70-300mm when the Macro challenge is over. I estimate my magnification to be 2.9-8.75x out of the setup, and it's only $240 worth of lenses and a piece of tape (the reversing ring is on order now =)
But I agree, DOF was a huge pain at those levels. At max magnification, I estimated my frame was 4mm wide, making the DOF teeny tiny - I'd estimate on the order of 1/10mm. Talk about splitting hairs.
Message edited by author 2007-10-15 12:07:03. |
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10/15/2007 12:07:52 PM · #4 |
| PS - the 70-300 only goes to f/20 at 300mm. I notice that true macro lenses, like Canon's 180mm go to f/32. Now I know why! |
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10/15/2007 12:09:26 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by smurfguy: I'm going to post a writeup on my experience with my 50mm reversed on my 70-300mm when the Macro challenge is over. |
Thanks, I'm sure that'll be very interesting. Please start a new thread., though. I wasn't clear enough - here I'm asking solely about DOF, and whether it varies among various macro options. If everyone agrees with spazmo, above, then this can be a very short thread. :)
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10/15/2007 12:15:58 PM · #6 |
Spazmo is correct. At distances much smaller than hyperfocal, the DOF is approximated by the formula: DOF = 2Nc(m+1)/m^2, where N is lens focal number, c is the circle of confusion (about 0.018mm for APS sized sensors), and m is the magnification. So, using that formula, and Jeffrey's example of magnification 1.2, assuming f11, then the DOF is about 0.6 mm!
One thing to remember, increasing the f-number too high will start to introduce diffraction blur, so the image will not be as sharp as more moderate apertures. |
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10/15/2007 12:22:39 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by brownsm: Spazmo is correct. At distances much smaller than hyperfocal, the DOF is approximated by the formula: DOF = 2Nc(m+1)/m^2, where N is lens focal number, c is the circle of confusion (about 0.018mm for APS sized sensors), and m is the magnification. So, using that formula, and Jeffrey's example of magnification 1.2, assuming f11, then the DOF is about 0.6 mm!
One thing to remember, increasing the f-number too high will start to introduce diffraction blur, so the image will not be as sharp as more moderate apertures. |
N is the f-stop? F/1.8, F/16, etc?
Thanks for the info, both to you and spazmo. It seems the main benefit then of getting a real macro lens is in something like a 100mm+ focal length so I can back up from my subjects. With my extension tubes, the lens front was only about an inch from the subject.
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10/15/2007 12:24:38 PM · #8 |
GEEK!!!!
Originally posted by brownsm: Spazmo is correct. At distances much smaller than hyperfocal, the DOF is approximated by the formula: DOF = 2Nc(m+1)/m^2, where N is lens focal number, c is the circle of confusion (about 0.018mm for APS sized sensors), and m is the magnification. So, using that formula, and Jeffrey's example of magnification 1.2, assuming f11, then the DOF is about 0.6 mm!
One thing to remember, increasing the f-number too high will start to introduce diffraction blur, so the image will not be as sharp as more moderate apertures. |
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10/15/2007 12:26:40 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by brownsm: One thing to remember, increasing the f-number too high will start to introduce diffraction blur, so the image will not be as sharp as more moderate apertures. |
Interesting - I'll have to look this up. I could swear that my f/20 shots weren't any sharper than my larger aperture shots, and now I know why! Some of my favorite shots were in fact in the fairly normal f/5.6 - f/11 range. |
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10/15/2007 12:34:01 PM · #10 |
Com on now. If you don't have anything nice to say... :)
Originally posted by bassbone: GEEK!!!!
Originally posted by brownsm: Spazmo is correct. At distances much smaller than hyperfocal, the DOF is approximated by the formula: DOF = 2Nc(m+1)/m^2, where N is lens focal number, c is the circle of confusion (about 0.018mm for APS sized sensors), and m is the magnification. So, using that formula, and Jeffrey's example of magnification 1.2, assuming f11, then the DOF is about 0.6 mm!
One thing to remember, increasing the f-number too high will start to introduce diffraction blur, so the image will not be as sharp as more moderate apertures. | |
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10/15/2007 12:34:23 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by levyj413:
Thanks for the info, both to you and spazmo. It seems the main benefit then of getting a real macro lens is in something like a 100mm+ focal length so I can back up from my subjects. With my extension tubes, the lens front was only about an inch from the subject. |
Yes, the benefit to longer FL macro lenses is that they allow a longer working distance.
Keep in mind though that to get the same magnification with a longer FL lens will require a longer extension tube. |
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10/15/2007 12:36:55 PM · #12 |
You just sounded way too much like an engineer. You analytical types just need to leave those technical discussions to the boys in development...
Actually, it was a great summary of magnification for everyone. The punchline about the mid range fstops being sharpest really hits home...Nice summary Steve
Originally posted by brownsm: Com on now. If you don't have anything nice to say... :)
Originally posted by bassbone: GEEK!!!!
Originally posted by brownsm: Spazmo is correct. At distances much smaller than hyperfocal, the DOF is approximated by the formula: DOF = 2Nc(m+1)/m^2, where N is lens focal number, c is the circle of confusion (about 0.018mm for APS sized sensors), and m is the magnification. So, using that formula, and Jeffrey's example of magnification 1.2, assuming f11, then the DOF is about 0.6 mm!
One thing to remember, increasing the f-number too high will start to introduce diffraction blur, so the image will not be as sharp as more moderate apertures. | | |
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10/15/2007 12:39:34 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by Spazmo99: Originally posted by levyj413:
Thanks for the info, both to you and spazmo. It seems the main benefit then of getting a real macro lens is in something like a 100mm+ focal length so I can back up from my subjects. With my extension tubes, the lens front was only about an inch from the subject. |
Yes, the benefit to longer FL macro lenses is that they allow a longer working distance.
Keep in mind though that to get the same magnification with a longer FL lens will require a longer extension tube. |
you also get the ability to focus to infinity. with the extension tubes, you lose that ability. |
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10/15/2007 01:51:46 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by brownsm: Originally posted by Spazmo99: Originally posted by levyj413:
Thanks for the info, both to you and spazmo. It seems the main benefit then of getting a real macro lens is in something like a 100mm+ focal length so I can back up from my subjects. With my extension tubes, the lens front was only about an inch from the subject. |
Yes, the benefit to longer FL macro lenses is that they allow a longer working distance.
Keep in mind though that to get the same magnification with a longer FL lens will require a longer extension tube. |
you also get the ability to focus to infinity. with the extension tubes, you lose that ability. |
Yes.
That said, extension tubes are also popular with bird photographers (and similar) to decrease the minimum focusing distance of super tele lenses. |
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10/15/2007 02:08:26 PM · #15 |
If you are using flash, the lens will sometimes shade the area that you are shooting, esp with "on camera" flash using longer set ups, like a tele reversed, or on ext tubes. It happens with an older 55mm Ai micro nikkor and several other lenses that I like to use with extension tubes.
I like the 180mm 2.8 and a 11mm extension tube best for good bokeh and little critter shots. I don't think the setup gets into the 1/1 range, but it is great for walk around shooting out to about 8 ft and closer.
I also have a Vivitar 2X "macro" telextender that I like a lot, as it is a TC + a macro focusing ring that allows focusing to almost touching the object with the M N 55mm lens. It works well with the Ai 105 2.5 for small things too.
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