wireless flash trigger whaaaaaa?

09/17/2007 01:22:36 PM · #1

Alright so I think I have decided on a lighting setup

I would buy this kit and then this softbox to go with the light so I would work with an umbrella and a softbox

now I need a wireless trigger for it. I have no way of knowing if my camera's hot shoe works with whatever trigger.

Would this trigger fit the sony a100 and set off these lights? From what I read it will set off and lights with a slave which this kit has but how do I know if it will work with my camera?

And what is the difference between that and this which has a transmitter and receiver and where does the receiver go and how does it work and should i get a different trigger setup off ebay or something? How do they work?!?!?! I have never used one....

:(

HELP PLEASE!

Thanks!
Claire

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 16-35 f/4 ED VR

09/17/2007 01:53:01 PM · #2

I am really lost and really need help getting the right wireless trigger :( pleeaseeee

darnok

Nikon D850

09/17/2007 02:34:29 PM · #3

The trasmitter goes into the camera's hotshoe and the receivers connect to the lights. When you trip the shutter the transmitter sends a pulse to the receivers setting the lights off, works just like using a PC cord but without the cord. I don't have any personal experience, but I can't see why the wireless system won't work with the Sony.

Nusbaum

Fujifilm X-T1

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

09/17/2007 02:43:41 PM · #4

I think the standard answer here is to look at pocketwizard for wireless triggers. There are others out there, but I would say 90% of the people I have talked to end with pocketwizard in the end anyway.

Is there a reason you cannot use a sync cord as your trigger when starting out?

FireBird

09/17/2007 03:32:03 PM · #5

Originally posted by lovethelight:

Would this trigger fit the sony a100 and set off these lights? From what I read it will set off and lights with a slave which this kit has but how do I know if it will work with my camera?

I believe it will work with your Sony.... but.... the only wild card is the Minolta Hot Shoe specification. If Sony inherited this it will not work. So to be absolutely sure you'll need someone who has actually tried it out. B&H is pretty good about taking returns, so shipping is the only thing you'd be out if you just try it.

As for your second question the first link just shows a TX unit that fits on the hotshoe. It won't work by itself unless you have a flash with a built- in RX unit. If you look in the same page in the first link you'll see the RX unit for sale. The RX units hook up to the flash head, usually with a 1/4 inch phone plug.

You might want to PM Leroy or Idnic as they are more flash head knowledgeable than I.

Message edited by author 2007-09-17 15:37:46.

MrEd

Sony DSLR-A100

Sigma 15-30mm f/3.5-4.5 EX Aspherical DG DF for Minolta

09/17/2007 03:41:40 PM · #6

If you're going to go wireless, you will need the trigger to mount on the camera and a receiver. You can call B&H at 800.606.6969 or 212.444.6615, but check their store hours here to make sure their open. Unlike my Minolta, transmitters should be a bit easier to find.

Message edited by author 2007-09-17 15:41:47.

09/17/2007 06:52:48 PM · #7

thanks so much! i think im just going to call them and ask because i don't know how to make sure the hot shoe is the right connection

09/17/2007 08:40:46 PM · #8

Claire... what will you be using the strobes for? Individuals in studio or groups on location? For individuals, I think those 160 w/s strobes will do fine ... but for larger groups and especially on location, I think you'll want 300 w/s minimum, otherwise you end up bumping your ISO in order to get the exposure you want.

09/17/2007 08:52:31 PM · #9

I have never done large groups or on location stuff, I don't really know if I will....I will probably eventually do weddings but not any time soon I don't think. I am being really stingy right now and wanna stick with 160 because they served me very well all summer and stuff...gah money money money :(

"
Is there a reason you cannot use a sync cord as your trigger when starting out?"

The sinc cord goes into a PC terminal...the sony a100 doesnt have that as far as I know so it would be useless to me. In order to use the sinc cord I have to get a hot shoe adaptor but I don't know how to find one that will fit this camera....man I feel like hitting something....i want a cannon now..... hahahha

Carl Zeiss 50mm ZE f/1.4 Planar T for Canon

09/17/2007 08:59:23 PM · #10

They have built-in optical slaves. So as long as you're in studio where the light is bouncing all all around anyway, you could probably trigger them with your camera's built-in flash and save some more $$$. :-)

yanko

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

09/17/2007 09:03:37 PM · #11

You might want to try an ebay trigger. Those are cheap and tend to do a good job from what I've heard. Only $30 for 4 channel trigger.

Message edited by author 2007-09-17 21:04:02.

09/17/2007 09:03:51 PM · #12

Originally posted by dwterry:

are you KIDDING me?! you have got to be kidding me....

yeah you have to be kidding....I went the whole summer unable to use my sony with the flashes my work had because I was too dumb to try that?

this is the part where I go try....well maybe I will just order the lights and deal with actually getting what I need to use them once they get here?

Message edited by author 2007-09-17 21:06:42.

09/17/2007 09:08:48 PM · #13

There are a couple of down sides....

If your camera does TTL, it'll probably fire a pre-flash. That pre-flash will trigger the strobes to go off BEFORE the shutter ever opens. So you end up taking the picture after the strobes have fired and get nothing but flash from the 2nd flash on your camera. The only solution is to disable the pre-flash. On Canons... you put the flash into manual power mode. You may have something similar.

Also, if the light from your flash is too bright ... and pointed directly at the subject, since your camera will be facing that direction, it can affect your ability to light the subject creatively with the strobes. I'd solve that just by putting something in front of the flash that directs it up at the ceiling or something. That way the strobes (slaves) will see it and fire, but it won't affect the exposure.

Message edited by author 2007-09-17 21:09:19.

Carl Zeiss 50mm ZE f/1.4 Planar T for Canon

09/17/2007 09:11:46 PM · #14

Yeah if I wanted to have a completely black room and just use a strobe to hightlight a face I would have to make a way to completely block the light from the camera flash. mine doesnt do a preflash so that isn't a problem....oh man i really need to just get some balls and buy these lights

yanko

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

09/17/2007 09:12:20 PM · #15

Originally posted by dwterry:

I've not tried this in a studio environment but when I have tried in general I get too much of the onboard flash lighting the subject. I've tried diffusing it alot to minimize the light's impact but then I don't always get the slave to trigger plus it also forces you to use FEL so that the preflash doesn't cause the slave to trigger before the shutter release.

Also too slow!

Message edited by author 2007-09-17 21:13:42.

Nikon AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f2.8D

09/17/2007 09:14:30 PM · #16

Originally posted by lovethelight:

oh man i really need to just get some balls and buy these lights

ROFL!!!! (sorry, it struck me funny)

David Ey

Nikon D80

09/17/2007 09:15:14 PM · #17

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG7pcJCD9G4
Video on the Pocketwizard

Message edited by author 2007-09-17 21:16:37.

09/17/2007 09:17:36 PM · #18

ooohhhhh sweet

09/17/2007 09:20:23 PM · #19

BUT what drives me crazy is that the hot shoe on my camera isn't compatible with that!!!!!!!!!! AHHHH WHHYYYY??

violinist123

Canon EOS-6D

09/17/2007 09:22:16 PM · #20

Google is your friend.

09/17/2007 09:23:57 PM · #21

oohhh pretty....except it costs SEVENTY DOLLARS...gimme a break...the wireless trigger thing costs enough as it is....

photography is expensive....

cry

:)

violinist123

Canon EOS-6D

09/17/2007 09:25:48 PM · #22

Yeah, it is expensive. But gets more expensive buying cheap stuff, getting irritated with it, and then shelling out later for better stuff which you should have bought in the first place...

09/17/2007 09:26:39 PM · #23

amen

MikeJ

Canon EOS-1D Mark II

09/17/2007 09:47:53 PM · #24

To answer your question about the softbox... I have that one myself and it works great... the down side is that it might be a little big for the SP-1600 lights. It will fit on the lights but the light output of 160 ws might be pushing it a bit to fully and evenly light up the business end of the softbox without getting some light fall off around the edges. I've never used that softbox on my SP-1600, just on my SP-3200 and SP-6400. Softboxes absorb some light out of the flash. Not as much as an umbrella loses from light spread though. So it will probably work at full power, but you won't have a lot of leeway if you want to go to half power. It's not insurmountable, just something you need to keep in mind as you learn the lights and when you use them. The softbox is a good one though. I've had mine for 5 years or so and other than having to wipe it down every now and then because of dust, it's still in good shape.

One other thing about the softbox though... it is a bear to put together. You have a plate and 4 rods that one end goes into the plate and then through channels in the softbox frame. You have to bend them to get it to fit. You will fear for your life that they will break on you. Although I'm a card carring member of the BrotherHood of Men that don't ask directions and don't read the instructions, I actually broke down and called the company and asked what was I doing wrong and how did it go together. I've only taken it apart one time in the last 5 years and though it was easier the 2nd time, I won't take it apart again. Maybe they have made them easier in the last 5 years. But I thought I'd warn you. My second softbox was the Octogon EZ-up softbox. I learned my lesson and at the time I was still on probation with the BrotherHood because I'd called for help. LOL!

The slave sensors on the back of these lights are pretty good. You just have to make sure that the light either hits it directly or you get a good bounce of light. But they have always worked, even in a very bright sun lit room. I used a 15' PC cord and a hotshoe adapter on my Rebel G (the camera I had when I got my lights 7 years ago and before I upgraded to the EOS 3 with a PC connector) plugged into one light. That light fired the other 2. Since I had a light at the camera position, it worked out pretty well. But the first chance I got I got a pair of Pocket Wizards so I could go wireless. I'm glad I did. :D

Mike