A Response to "Fashion Photography!!"

Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

07/25/2007 07:10:28 PM · #1

This is being re-posted to illuminate the importance of how easy those not knowing better can easily loose precious time by being either ill informed or given info based on those really not in a position to give advice. I would prefer to assist those interested in the subject not to loose their precious time and get them on a more accurate path. So here goes again...Taken from two of my articles at "ePhotozine":

Fashion photography - Benjamin Kanarek explains how to put a fashion shoot together
Was recently asked, "How do you put a Fashion Shoot together?"

I really don't where to start...

The team is always the following: A Fashion Stylist, Hair Stylist, Make-Up Artist, Model or 's, Photographer and Assistant or 's, Re-Touch artist etc.

A stylist is the person that chooses the clothing, shoes and accessories. The stylist is briefed before the shoot by the photographer. This briefing is a think tank session that is intended to garner a "Theme" or "Story" that will be the thread running through the whole shoot. It is like writing a storyboard. Let's say we want to do a ten page fashion story with the theme being"My Day at the Laundromat" for example. The shoot will be about a girl who has a huge pile of clothes to wash and is spending the whole day in the place while people are coming in and out as she observes the procession. All "Good" fashion stories start with a theme, from simple to complex. Well these people i.e. models are dressed in specific "Brands" of clothing that should cover a range of designers or manufactures to give a reason for it being a "Fashion" story and not just a "Model Portfolio" Yach...Sorry. All fashion magazines expect at least a six page story with a theme. Now how are you going to choreograph all of this. You are going for a ten page story. Well it could be two double pages and six single pages or three double page spreads and four single pages. On the former example you will only have to shoot seven images that being three horizontal images and four vertical. That could be done in one day but two days would be preferable. Now you have to define each of the shots in the "Story" Perhaps the first opening page could just be a picture of the Laundromat empty and void of anything except the ugly fluorescent lights and the washers and dryers. That might be where the title would be. Lets call the story "Living in a Laundromat".

The next shot could be the star of the show who might be wearing a "Miss Sixty" pair of red jeans an "H&M" blouse a pair of "Adidas" shoes and a "Victor and Rolf" Bag...Remember all magazines reasons for existing is to catalogue what the designers are coming out with two to three months in advance of the product hitting the stores, so the stylist will have access to all of the press offices representing the designers showrooms. So let's continue. The next image is the introduction of the first couple or individuals coming in to do their laundry. They are perhaps passing dirty clothing to the one that is depositing the socks in to the washing machine. Perhaps it is being throw and caught etc. The story continues with different amusing vignettes and perhaps ends with a close up of the girl, still alone in the Laundromat of a close up on her sad face looking through the glass door on to the world outside...

That "IS" a fashion story.

Now that you have decided on the story, you have to decide on the rest of the team. Remember that the Fashion Stylist was chosen because she/he was appropriate for this kind of challenge and in your estimation a think tank session with this person would result in an interesting treatment. Knowing the story you both will have to find a hair and make up artist or one that is very good at both which is rare. You will be doing your casting based on looking at books of Hair and Make-up people to see if their style conforms to your treatment (story). Now that you have found the support team it is time to cast for the appropriate subjects.

In the story you decided that you needed three people. The other two will look different in each image so you could get away with just three "Models-Actors" The casting is so important in re-enforcing the theme of the story. For me stranger is better, but that is a matter of taste based on your being "Plugged In" to what the looks are that are happening today.

You will have the stylist or yourself call the model agencies and brief them with the criteria of your theme and they will respond by sending you portfolios for the purpose of honing down the selection. Once selections are made you will call the agency to have them send the chosen finalists to come for a face to face casting. The casting should be attended by the whole team. The hair and make-up artists will comment on their observations as well as the stylist and yourself, all seeing the model from a different perspective.

Once the democratic decisions are made, you will have the final decision approval authority based on their input. The agency will be called to confirm the dates you gave them when they asked "What are the shoot dates. We will send you books of talent available on those dates..."

You will get either a first or second option and hopefully a first. If you are certain of the selection confirm immediately. That will guarantee their availability.

Set the time and place of the shoot and give the agencies all of the telephone contact info and visa versa for the whole team... That is how to put together a shoot. Although a condensed version. You must also think about the flow of the story. Two full shots two close up details one beauty shot etc etc etc...

The Beginning... Ben

AND...

Why do some Images seem more polished and others are lacking that certain...?
- Professional photography Benjamin Kanarek shares his thoughts about fashion photography:

What you are seeing when you look at an image I am posting, is not just "my photo". It is a team of individuals providing their talent (which in general is of the highest calibre in the industry) and expertise to the final outcome. All of these individuals from the Model, Hair and Make-Up artist, Fashion Stylist and PP Retouch (for skin generally..Never my lighting) are essential in getting the "Film Finished" so to speak. Being that I am based in Paris considered one of the three major centers in the world for my metier, I can draw on this exceptional source of talent. These people gravitate to these centers, just as Hollywood attracts actors and actresses, film directors, producers etc.

I have had this discussion with so many very talented photographers who become so frustrated with their work because they cannot produce the images they imagine for lack of the talent needed to do so. They ask, "Ben, why do my images lack something that I can't quite define?" And I brutally have to answer.."They smack of being Provincial..." Anyone who has done this God forsaken business as long as I have can smell it the minute they see the image. Everything from So So model, bad poorly done make-up, abysmal hair, no fashion styling at all or perhaps at best borrowed from a local clothing store and totally out dated by my "Snobbishly Arrogant" standards and really badly overdone or incompetent retouching.

If anyone wishes to do what I do, it is really quite simple. Gain a vocabulary. Go out and look at or buy, Italian Vogue, French Vogue, Citizen K International, Numero, Surface, Issue One, Oyster, Soon, V, etc etc etc..Not the S--Ty mainstream crap. Absorb it, look, observe, look, observe. You must attain a base for even knowing HOW TO OBSERVE and what to look for. DO NOT YET STUDY THE TECHNIQUE!!!That will come later. Look at everything that is happening. Look at the hair the make-up the clothes the model the theme the ambience. Keep doing this over and over and over until you learn how to be "Discerning". To become discerning you need the vocabulary.

Once you've done that and come to the realization that I might want to try this, you can choose a high end provincial market or "THE MARKET"...I started with Toronto, stayed one year, moved to LA to NY to Milan and eventually Paris. You can get some pretty good talent in Chicago, LA as upper echelon almost there markets and get away with it. You can get the good models in Chicago when they come in to do the shows. Chicago have some good model agencies.

Never do a test without all of the "support team" I mentioned. Hair, Make-Up and Fashion-Accessory stylist and of course the Model. "IF YOU DON'T HAVE THIS TEAM YOU WILL BE WASTING YOUR PRECIOUS TIME."

We can talk about how you can and will get a relatively good serious working model and support team for your shoots and what to say to get them. A model agency will know immediately by the questions you ask if you are a novice or advanced shooter. Ask the wrong question and BYE BYE..You'll smack of...OH, just wanna meet models, forget it buddy! Never F--K around with Model agencies. Always be as forthright as you can with them. They can screw your career when it is just starting with just two or three phone calls. When you get to my level, it is the inverse.

Here is a sample of a professional photo shoot for "Spoon" magazine and filmed for FTV (Fashion Television)

//www.dailymotion.com/tag/kanarek/video/xlcdg_guerrierefragdsl_creation

Message edited by author 2007-07-26 02:24:07.

jackal9

Canon EOS-50D

07/25/2007 07:45:25 PM · #2

Very interesting! Thanks!

rjkstesch

Nikon D700

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

07/25/2007 07:52:43 PM · #3

Thank you for the insight and a quick reality check.

This really is a cut throat profession with ups and downs.

Olympus 40-150mm f/2.8 PRO M.Zuiko

07/25/2007 07:54:33 PM · #4

That almost makes me glad I never pursued fashion photography seriously.

Brad

Olympus OM-D E-M1

07/25/2007 08:16:42 PM · #5

Well I for one, tip my hat to you.
That is a tough line of work to be in, and probably one that is a very competitive.

I guess the Natural Light Challenge here was foreign language to you?
(just kidding)

rex

Canon PowerShot SD780

07/25/2007 08:17:59 PM · #6

nice post. I enjoyed reading that.

brianlh

Canon EOS-450D Rebel XSi

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

07/25/2007 08:18:29 PM · #7

Great post - thanks for the article, and the video link. And stunning work- though I'm sure you've heard that plenty of times :)

Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

07/26/2007 01:01:23 AM · #8

Originally posted by brianlh:

Great post - thanks for the article, and the video link. And stunning work- though I'm sure you've heard that plenty of times :)

Nah..Never...It is always nice to hear encouraging words. Thanks for your comments:-)

jackal9

Canon EOS-50D

07/26/2007 01:06:04 AM · #9

Originally posted by benjikan:

Originally posted by brianlh:
Great post - thanks for the article, and the video link. And stunning work- though I'm sure you've heard that plenty of times :)

Nah..Never...It is always nice to hear encouraging words. Thanks for your comments:-)

Yeah, never, LOL very nice shots and this is a different world to most of us here, thanks for shedding some much needed light on the subject...!!

Jack

07/26/2007 01:06:38 AM · #10

Ben, what say you drop a REAL fashion shot in Free Study? I'd bet you'd do well :-D

jan_vdw

Canon EOS-40D

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

07/26/2007 01:06:38 AM · #11

Wow, thanks! Really very interesting.

07/26/2007 01:11:17 AM · #12

Originally posted by fotomann_forever:

Ben, what say you drop a REAL fashion shot in Free Study? I'd bet you'd do well :-D

What is "Free Study" and what is a "REAL" Fashion shot?

07/26/2007 01:13:15 AM · #13

Originally posted by benjikan:

Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
Ben, what say you drop a REAL fashion shot in Free Study? I'd bet you'd do well :-D

What is "Free Study" and what is a "REAL" Fashion shot?

Free Study is a monthly submit your best challenge here. And a real fashion shoot would be what you do with all the sets and the glam and stuff :-)

07/26/2007 01:18:51 AM · #14

Originally posted by fotomann_forever:

Originally posted by benjikan:

Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
Ben, what say you drop a REAL fashion shot in Free Study? I'd bet you'd do well :-D

What is "Free Study" and what is a "REAL" Fashion shot?

Free Study is a monthly submit your best challenge here. And a real fashion shoot would be what you do with all the sets and the glam and stuff :-)

The sets that are used during a shoot usually go back to the set designer or thrown out. I don't understand "Best Challenge"..What is the purpose of it? Sorry for my ignorance here.

07/26/2007 01:25:55 AM · #15

June Free Study

Basically everyone enters their best shot from the month. No theme is given, just whatever you want to enter.

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

07/26/2007 01:27:13 AM · #16

Originally posted by benjikan:

or thrown out.

Really. I'd think students and other photographers would love to get hold of some of the sets.

escapetooz

Canon EOS-500D Rebel T1i

07/26/2007 02:01:34 AM · #17

hmmm... might be a dumb question but how does payment work? You paying the team? The model paying the team?

I know... or think I know (lol) that if the photographs are used or bought by a magazine then everyone gets paid right? But what if that is not the case?

07/26/2007 02:15:55 AM · #18

Originally posted by escapetooz:

Ummm...No. The client is paying the team. If it is for a Magazine or an Ad Campaign the client and or the Ad Agency negotiates with the agents representing each artist on the team as well as the model.

Message edited by author 2007-07-26 02:18:05.

07/26/2007 02:23:14 AM · #19

Originally posted by Brad:

I always use natural light..If I don't I make "Natural Light" ;-)

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

07/26/2007 02:36:14 AM · #20

Does your agent get jobs for you or do you tell him which jobs you want? Or... how does the whole agent/photographer/client relationship work?

escapetooz

Canon EOS-500D Rebel T1i

07/26/2007 02:51:01 AM · #21

Originally posted by benjikan:

Originally posted by escapetooz:
hmmm... might be a dumb question but how does payment work? You paying the team? The model paying the team?

I know... or think I know (lol) that if the photographs are used or bought by a magazine then everyone gets paid right? But what if that is not the case?

Ummm...No. The client is paying the team. If it is for a Magazine or an Ad Campaign the client and or the Ad Agency negotiates with the agents representing each artist on the team as well as the model.

Yes... if you are lucky enough to be doing it for a magazine. But how did you get these things together before those days? Or did you not?

07/26/2007 02:54:27 AM · #22

Originally posted by escapetooz:

Originally posted by benjikan:

Originally posted by escapetooz:
hmmm... might be a dumb question but how does payment work? You paying the team? The model paying the team?

I know... or think I know (lol) that if the photographs are used or bought by a magazine then everyone gets paid right? But what if that is not the case?

Ummm...No. The client is paying the team. If it is for a Magazine or an Ad Campaign the client and or the Ad Agency negotiates with the agents representing each artist on the team as well as the model.

Yes... if you are lucky enough to be doing it for a magazine. But how did you get these things together before those days? Or did you not?

That would take hours. I was interviewed on a web cast..Is there a place I can post the interview which is in three parts? It is quite heavy though even in MP3.

Message edited by author 2007-07-26 02:54:55.

jan_vdw

Canon EOS-40D

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

07/26/2007 03:02:32 AM · #23

Perhaps for the next DP Podcast

benjikan can be interviewed?