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07/16/2007 06:22:13 AM · #1 |
Hi,
I am looking to by a new lens : Canon EF-S 10-22mm and I was wondering if to buy a filter for it. I saw that the polarizing ones do not work well on wideangle lenses (not uniform), so what about other filters? Are they any good? As for example: Hoya 77mm Neutral Density ND4.
Any suggestions are welcomed!
Also, anyone has the Canon RC-1 Wireless Remote control? Any feedback?
Thanks,
Bianca
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07/16/2007 08:01:09 AM · #2 |
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07/16/2007 08:22:31 AM · #3 |
Ok, I saw a partial answer in the "vignetting" thread, but how about the remote control?
Message edited by author 2007-07-16 08:22:45.
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07/16/2007 08:25:21 AM · #4 |
Hi Bianca,
I have enough trouble with a polarising lens on my 18-55 at the wide end that I will think very carefully before putting one on a wider angle when I get one. PL works really well on a telelens, but on the wide angles, the sky will be really dark on one side, and really light on the other, and it pretty much ruined some of my beach shots. I'm not sure whether there are certain times of day where this might not occur, such as midday maybe. I think it was also playing having with the auto WB on my camera, because all the shots were off colour. (It's a decent filter which I've used heaps before on my old camera and been really happy with, so I don't think it's the filter problem)
Oh, for the remote control, check out a thing called the twin-1. I bought one the other day. It works as a wireless shutter release, with or without a delay, (and with autofocus at firing time) and also comes with a short cable, so it also works as a cable release, with a half-click prefocus, and bulb support. It has a switch as well as the button, so you can lock the bulb shutter open and walk away. Also, not in the manual, it works on wireless bulb release, click to open, and click again to close, which is awesome. It's also cheaper than any of the canon ones. I've only used it for one photo session so far on wireless. Occasionally it didn't fire on the first click during rapid firing, but I haven't used it enough yet to know if it was my problem or not. I'm still pretty happy with it.
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07/16/2007 08:33:58 AM · #5 |
thanks for the answer.
how much did you pay for the remote control? i could buy the wirless one for 15 euros.
as for the filters, it's exactly what I found in one thread, the fact that on wide lenses, it isn't uniform, so darker on one side and lighter on the other one. I also read here about Cokin filter z-series, that might solve this problem. I'll have to read more about it.
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07/16/2007 08:36:39 AM · #6 |
You are correct about CP-L's on an u-wide lens. The "sweet spot" of the polarization becomes more of a large spot, not throughout your photo.
ND filters can be a lot of fun with creating long(er) exposures, but I don't use mine as much as I'd like. The ND4 you mentioned will only get you 2 extra stops though, not a big difference really. The ND8 will get you 3 stops. You can stack them to get even more, but that adds up ($$$).
If you're wanted to shoot landscapes with your new lens and have the itch to get an accesory for it (like we all do), look into graduated ND filters for the Cokin P system or Lee filter system. These are more useful in my opinion. Say you have a nice bright sunset, but you also want detail in the darker foreground, these filters darken the sky a bit and balance things out for a better exposure all around. There are different kinds too... hard edge for very straight horizons like the ocean, etc, and soft edges for horizons with mountains, trees, etc. Different densities and colors too. Keep in mind though, the filter holder that you attach to the front of the lens will stick out a bit so that at the widest angle it comes into view. On mine, usually below 13mm.
The remote is also a good idea to have. The timer remote is very handy to have at times, but a lot more $$. Happy shopping! |
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07/16/2007 08:52:46 AM · #7 |
I paid $40 for my twin-1, which is maybe Eu 25. That's cheaper than I could get the canon remote, but it sounds like you can get it very cheap.
The cokin z-series filters won't stop the main polarising filter problem. It will help to stop vignetting, but you'll still get very strong gradients across the sky.
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07/16/2007 09:06:17 AM · #8 |
Outside, polarizers give the greatest darkening effect at 90 deg to the sun.
In other words, if the sun is due west, with a polarizer, the darkest part of the sky will be due north and due south, while littel effect will be seen east and west.
Since WA lenses can take in such a broad expanse of the sky, there's a gradient. |
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07/16/2007 09:17:49 AM · #9 |
Ok, so no filters for my new lens for the moment. I'll just play with the lens and see what I need.
But I ordered one Hoya 52mm Neutral Density ND8 for my EF 50mm 1.8. This way I get to play with a filter:) I guess I wanted one really bad :)
Thanks for the answers guys!
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07/16/2007 09:24:54 AM · #10 |
Originally posted by anotherday: Ok, so no filters for my new lens for the moment. I'll just play with the lens and see what I need.
But I ordered one Hoya 52mm Neutral Density ND8 for my EF 50mm 1.8. This way I get to play with a filter:) I guess I wanted one really bad :)
Thanks for the answers guys! |
FYI - The most economical approach to filters is not to buy filters for every lens, but to buy them all in the size that your biggest diameter lens will take and then use step rings to fit them to the rest of your lenses.
Unless you have a lens that takes really big filters, this can save money and the hassle of buying the same filter in multiple sizes. |
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07/16/2007 09:33:12 AM · #11 |
D'oh, I am stupid :) lol :) I didn't think of that. Well, I already passed the order for that one. But I'll keep in mind for the next filter. Thanks a lot!
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