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07/15/2007 03:24:31 PM · #1 |
Newbie questions so consider yourself warned:
I currently own:
10d
580EX II
Tripod
Black velvet backdrop (no stand)
Have ordered a lightsphere and a sekonic L-358
I am wanting to start doing some indoor photography and am at a loss at where to start. During my two semesters in photography at the local community college they only let us see the studio for a couple of hours one evening and for our assignments we were not allowed to use a flash until near the end of the second year and I didn't have one that did anything but shoot straight on and as we all know that doesn't make for flattering light. So I've been primarily shooting out doors. Sometimes this is not convenient.
My cousins have asked me to photograph their premature twins that have recently made it home from the hospital after many months. I really want to do a good job for them. These babies are miracle babies in more ways than one. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I've been reading all the posts here for months and have learned tons.
Also I figure it\'s about time to get some lighting and tackle my fear of it.
Okay to my questions:
I have been seriously considering the alien bees. Should I buy one or two 400s? Or would that be overkill with the flash? I will for right now be just photographing a family of no more than 6 (as none of my friends have more than 4 kids). Do I need a softbox or can I get away with the umbrellas included in the beginner bee kit? If I need a softbox should I order one from alien bees?
Can anyone tell me how to set up one or two alien bees and a flash with a lightsphere? Placement of the strobes in relation to the backdrop and subjects or a link to a diagram? I've already read all of Cindi\'s (idnic) posts But didn't see anything about how to set up on location with a flash and 1 or 2 strobes.
How I can make all these items work together? How do I make the strobes fire? Can I just use a sync cord? Or do I even need that? Not even sure if I have a plug for it on my camera. If I don't, how can I fix that?
Also how do I bring the lightmeter into the mix? How do I plug that and the camera and the strobes together? So I can meter? Do I plug all three together even? Sorry is probably a silly question for those of you who are more experienced. But I promise you I can develop a mean roll of film on a ss spool, not those plastic tanks, and make prints in a darkroom and use a camera that does not have one automatic feature on it not even rewind or AF :D
Any good backdrop stand suggestions? Will probably primarily use fabric and it will need to fold up or be able to be dismantled for portability and storage as I don't have a studio or room for one currently. Also preferably something on a budget but not something cheap that won't last.
As I said before any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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07/15/2007 03:49:22 PM · #2 |
Wow, lots of questions, let's see what I can do here :- )
How many strobes to buy? Two light kits are the best to start with. You c an do quite a bit with one light, but it takes at least two lights to get good portrait results. There are cheaper and equivalent lights than the Bees though. Impact sells kits at B&H that are just as good and much less expensive. Impact Lights are the same power as the AB400's. These will provide ample power as your primary lights. They also will accept standard Bowen light modifiers, giving you good expandability.
Personally, I'd get Softboxes and umbrellas. But, if you decide to get umbrellas only, get both shoot through and reflective umbrellas.
OK, most of the time you don't use the flash on camera with strobes. Flash is for easy portable where strobes are for "studio" style shooting, even if on location. You likely will never use your flash and strobes at the same time.
Generally for setup, you have the two strobes setup opposite of each other on either side of the subject, slightly ahead of the subject. The light is then metered for the light ratio you wish to achieve. For the infants, flat lighting or near flat lighting will probably be best. A flat lighting is near 1:1 ratio on left/right lights (key/fill). I wouldn't exceed 1:3 ratio for those shots, unless an artistic result is intended.
You make the strobes fire via sync cord or radio triggers. Radio triggers are great, but add a bit more expense. You can get some cheap ones that work well on e-bay though for around $25. Only one strobe has to be connected. The rest fire via optical slave.
The lightmeter (specifically flash meter) captures the light during a test fire and gives you a reading. It can be hooked up to the strobes temporarily so that it can fire them, but doesn't have to be. You can test fire from your camera or via the test button on the strobes themselves.
Background stand: Here
Anyway, hope all that helps, feel free to ask more.
Message edited by author 2007-07-15 16:19:48.
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07/15/2007 05:47:46 PM · #3 |
Google.com is your friend. There is more free information on the web (tips & tutorials on lighting techniques, etc) than you can soak up in a lifetime. Here's a few to get you started...
StudioLighting.net - A Free Resource for Studio Lighting Information
Shutterbug.com - A bunch of articles about lighting techniques
Luminous-Landscape.com - Lots of articles and tutorials, including lighting techniques
Guide to using a hand-held light meter
Of course, there's nothing wrong with asking questions here. I just wanted to give you some links to other sources of information.
Somewhere I have a link to a web site that has good diagrams for different lighting setups, but I seem to have misplaced it. If I find it again, I'll post it here.
I think AlienBees are a great way to get started. When I first decided to buy some lighting equipment, I did a bit of research on several of the most popular brands. Comparing features and prices, AlienBees seemed to be the best bang-for-the-buck that I could find. I started with two B400 lights with heavy-duty stands and medium Octaboxes. Since then I have added two more B400s, stands, boom arms, remote controls, and various modifiers. It's all good stuff, and their customer service is great.
Good luck!
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07/15/2007 07:28:03 PM · #4 |
If you go for the eBay radio triggers, You need the v2 ones that work with a Canon 580 (the v1 will keep firing the dam* thing). I have been playing around with the Strobist stuff and it's just so much fun - also the thing is to do it on a budget, so you don't need to sped a fortune.
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07/16/2007 07:54:07 PM · #5 |
Thank you, thank you all so much to all of you for responding to my questions and for the links. Unfortunately I have a few more.
Does the Impact kit have everything I'll need except the umbrellas? The price looks really good especially compared to the alien bees. Is this a set that will last awhile. I'm the type of person who doesn't really believe in too much of a starter set. If you buy what you want to begin with you'll keep it longer. Do you use this lighting yourself? Seems when we did visit the studio in class I remember everything plugging into some box. And them telling us to be careful to not turn it on until everything was plugged in or something or it could blow the lights. Sorry I feel like I'm trying to speak (or type) in a foreign language.
If I were to buy umbrellas what size do I get?
What are the benefits/differences between shoot through and reflective umbrellas and which way do you face the strobes when using them? Towards your subject or away?
Did I make a mistake by buying the flash? and the lightsphere?
Sorry I don't understand the ratio you are speaking of to get the flat lighting.
I'm also trying to get my head wrapped around this whole flat light thing. Is flat light face on light that doesn't show as many curves to the face like a front lit landscape compared to axis light? Also is flat light a soft light with very few or no highlights? Or is that only speaking of the direction of the light? Sorry I have mostly done landscapes. Do you have examples or a link showing examples?
Thanks again. |
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07/16/2007 08:33:45 PM · #6 |
No it doesn' come with umbrellas, but ya can pick umbrellas up pretty cheaply. I suggest at least 48 inch ones.
I do use the Impact lighting kit and I use them hard. I don't give them a break during a shoot. Have never had any problems with over heating or any other issues even with shoots in excess of 400 rapid exposures. They are sturdy. And flash tubes are user replacable, which I haven't had to do yet, but they aren't expensive.
The shoot through umbrellas, you face toward the subject and use them like a softbox. The reflective ones, you turn the strobes away from the subject with the inside of the umbrella facing the subject. IMO shoot-through produce the softer light than the reflective.
I don't think you made a mistake by buying the flash and lightsphere. They will have their uses, but not in the studio. FWIW, the flash/lightsphere combo are great to have.
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07/16/2007 08:37:12 PM · #7 |
Light ratios and flat lighting.
1:1 lighting is flat lighting. It's when you don't have a distinctive key light and almost no shadows. Yes, it is very much like face on lighting and should be soft.
Now, I don't think your baby pics should be completely flat, but I think they should be softly lit and not have a high key/fill ratio.
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07/16/2007 09:17:15 PM · #8 |
| Thanks Leroy I greatly appreciate your help! I have read many of your posts here over the last few months and have found them very helpful. |
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