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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Circular Polarizers
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06/27/2007 10:19:08 PM · #1
Are there any compelling reasons why I would t want to buy a more expensive circular polarizer over a generic one? Will there be any super noticeable differences that would justify paying an extra 75+ dollars? (50 for the general brand vs 125+ for others)?
06/27/2007 10:25:24 PM · #2
Originally posted by bfox2:

Are there any compelling reasons why I would t want to buy a more expensive circular polarizer over a generic one? Will there be any super noticeable differences that would justify paying an extra 75+ dollars? (50 for the general brand vs 125+ for others)?


I use a 20 dollar one on my film camera's. Its great and better then nothing. I would have to guess a 70 dollar one might have a better range?
06/27/2007 10:28:16 PM · #3
Range? Meaning that you could point it at a greater angle away from the sun, or...?
06/27/2007 10:29:57 PM · #4
Originally posted by bfox2:

Range? Meaning that you could point it at a greater angle away from the sun, or...?


No meaning i figure a better one might get a slightly better range with the sky color, ability to filter reflections and glare. Also might be ones out there that dont lose a full stop of light and have a smoother transition?

A basic polarizer is a polarizer the technology hasn't changed that much but im sure theres better then basic. I wouldnt know.
06/27/2007 10:31:02 PM · #5
One thing your gonna want is an Internal Focus lens like a Tamron.

Otherwise every time you focus you might have to reset your polarizer. But it depends on what your doing if your doing straight up sky shots at infinity focus then your not gonna have a problem.
06/27/2007 10:37:26 PM · #6
Interesting, I just faced this question earlier in the week. A friend of mine, with his own studio and Photography business told me that the older, linear filters will not work with digital. And he said that goes beyond not giving a good polarized effect, but that it would interfere with your camera's auto-focus. He suggested that given what it does, I should bite the bullet and buy the best circular filter I can find. He further suggested buying only one, sized to fit the largest lens I expect to buy (largest in diameter), and use step-down rings for my smaller lenses. A good circular polarizing filter for 70 mm can run upwards of $150.00.

All that said, I bought a low end Hoya on ebay this week and am waiting for it to arrive. It is circular, but not SMC (super multi-coated).

I'll let you know how it works when get it.
06/27/2007 10:41:15 PM · #7
Well not to sound like anything because its not. Not speaking of Linear Polarizers at all its a completely different question.

1 - Really going on the difference between a cheapo and a good circular polarizer.

2 - Hoya is a good make, however the coated version is better. Im pretty sure a 20 dollar sunpack or a 35 dollar Qunataray is a heck of alot lower then Hoya's cheapo.

But yeah, step down rings are the way to go just don't do like Nikolai did on the GTG try to attach a smaller filter while the ring is still on the lens lol

3 - Its not digital thats the problem its just plain Autofocus thats the issue. Linear polarizers have problems on 35mm autofocus also.
06/27/2007 10:54:29 PM · #8
Originally posted by RainMotorsports:

Well not to sound like anything because its not. Not speaking of Linear Polarizers at all its a completely different question.

1 - Really going on the difference between a cheapo and a good circular polarizer.

2 - Hoya is a good make, however the coated version is better. Im pretty sure a 20 dollar sunpack or a 35 dollar Qunataray is a heck of alot lower then Hoya's cheapo.

But yeah, step down rings are the way to go just don't do like Nikolai did on the GTG try to attach a smaller filter while the ring is still on the lens lol

3 - Its not digital thats the problem its just plain Autofocus thats the issue. Linear polarizers have problems on 35mm autofocus also.


Glad to hear I bought the better of the low end. I've been out a few times shooting in sunlight and remembered how much it helped back in the days of my Pentax K1000. Had to get one again.

Thanks for the further info.
06/27/2007 10:55:17 PM · #9
<---SHooting with Pentax K1000 and Sigma AutoFocus 70-210 APO UC Macro! Using a Circular Polarizer on it due to I also use it on my Canon Elan 35mm Autofocus.

Message edited by author 2007-06-27 22:55:48.
06/27/2007 11:00:52 PM · #10

You are way too young to have a K1000.

You should send it to me... :)

06/27/2007 11:03:01 PM · #11
Originally posted by thomaspeople:

You are way too young to have a K1000.

You should send it to me... :)


I just got the damn thing, I guess Im took young for my 1973 Yashica FX-3 and 1987 Canon AV-1? Hell the Canon Elan is a 91. For all you know my K1000 is a 1997. Its not but not the point.
06/27/2007 11:06:15 PM · #12
you're right.

you should send them all to me...

06/27/2007 11:11:34 PM · #13

I got one of these.

Nowhere to put a polarizer though.

06/27/2007 11:14:46 PM · #14
Originally posted by thomaspeople:

I got one of these.

Nowhere to put a polarizer though.



Uh hand hold it like i do with my P&S? Remember to hold it to the end of the lens it wont filter reflections coming from the backside. Ill have the physical adapter for the A6xx series soon.
06/27/2007 11:24:24 PM · #15
Originally posted by bfox2:

Are there any compelling reasons why I would t want to buy a more expensive circular polarizer over a generic one? Will there be any super noticeable differences that would justify paying an extra 75+ dollars? (50 for the general brand vs 125+ for others)?


I only use B+W and Heliopan filters. It makes little sense to me to spend a fortune on cameras and lenses and attach a piece of cheap glass.

Schneider Optics (B+W):

Circular polarizing filters are made for all cameras with beam splitters in the light paths of their TTL exposure meter and with autofocus lenses. Circular polarization has the same pictorial effect as linear polarization, but allows for proper exposure metering and/or autofocus distance settings.
The âhigh-endâ polarizing foils of the Käsemann-type filters are neutral in color, they have a higher efficiency than conventional polarizing foils and they are cemented between high-grade plano-parallel optical glass. The resulting sandwich is then precision-polished again to achieve highly accurate plano-parallel surfaces. Subsequently they are edge-sealed to protect the foil against humidity. Brass mounts made on CNC-controlled machines ensure precise seating on the lens. Discriminating photographers regard the B+W Käsemann-Type Polarizing Filter to be the very best of all polarizing filters. They are well suited for applications that require the highest possible imaging quality, especially with high-speed telephoto lenses and apochromatic lenses.

MRC (Multi-Resistant Coating) by B+W is not only an extraordinarily effective multiple layer coating, it is also harder than glass, so that it protects filters from scratches (for instance when cleaning the filters), and it is also water and dirt repellent, thus facilitating filter maintenance.

Linear and circular polarizers both consist of a linear polarizer foil but differ in their construction in the following way. Modern SLR cameras have have a beam-splitting prism that sends part of the incoming light to the meter and part to the viewfinder. The effect is that the light entering the meter is partially polarized by the beam-splitter. A linear polarized placed on the lens of such a system will act as a second polarizer and block light to the meter by a degree dependent on the angle between the prism and the polarizer on the lens. The result is incorrect exposure/aperture values from the meter. The circular polarizer circumvents this problem through the addition of a 1/4-wave retarder, or delay, foil. This ensures that the linearly polarized light is changed into a rotation that appears unpolarized to the meter, resulting in proper exposure/aperture readings.

06/27/2007 11:41:43 PM · #16
Originally posted by zeuszen:

A linear polarized placed on the lens of such a system will act as a second polarizer and block light to the meter by a degree dependent on the angle between the prism and the polarizer on the lens. The result is incorrect exposure/aperture values from the meter.


Hmmmmm, so if you don't mind giving up AF and know how to shoot manual without a meter, or use a external light meter you can get one of the old high-quality linear pols for a song and dance on eBay and take nice polarized shots. hehehehe
06/28/2007 11:02:53 AM · #17
Originally posted by fir3bird:

Hmmmmm, so if you don't mind giving up AF and know how to shoot manual without a meter, or use a external light meter you can get one of the old high-quality linear pols for a song and dance on eBay and take nice polarized shots. hehehehe


As we've heard say somewhere " Not all cooks walk with long knives". ;-)
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