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01/22/2005 01:44:23 PM · #126 |
| Where should I start? hehe. Actually, I think I answered this thread before.. but right now, it's the awful low-light and AF, and the lack of dynamic range |
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01/22/2005 01:44:36 PM · #127 |
It's in NJ at a Canon factory repair facility.
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01/22/2005 01:48:39 PM · #128 |
My biggest beef about my 300d is that it probably takes close to a minute to transfer ONE raw file from the camera to the PC. But that *can* be solved with a card reader -- which might be next on my list.
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01/22/2005 01:50:53 PM · #129 |
Nikon 5700 has fulfilled all my expectations and then some. My expectations were not unrealistic, as I shot with a Finepix 4900z before. There are some things that bug me, that I can't do them, but I knew about the limitations coming in.
My (minor) complaints are length of time it takes to write TIFF or RAW before freeing up to shoot again, and terrible lag between pressing the button and actual exposure. It's impossible to shoot any sort of "action" (dogs running, birds flying) except in burst mode and by guessing in advance when to start the burst, as it won't focus during burst mode. Focus I take care of by setting it on hperfocal.
Too great a DOF is a problem, a serious one, but that's the nature of the focal lengths for such a small sensor. I work around it with judicious use of gaussian blur in photoshop, when I have to.
Robt.
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01/22/2005 01:52:00 PM · #130 |
Deapee,
A card reader is an absolute must; they're cheap and reliable. If you shoot RAW, and shoot lots, there's simply no other way to go.
Robt.
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01/22/2005 01:56:08 PM · #131 |
What I dont like about my 5000:
1. slow shutter speed max is 2 seconds
2. its not dslr hehe
other than that its a great camera :)
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01/22/2005 01:58:44 PM · #132 |
Originally posted by bear_music:
Deapee,
A card reader is an absolute must; they're cheap and reliable. If you shoot RAW, and shoot lots, there's simply no other way to go.
Robt. |
Probably should be a new thread, but I'm sure the answer is simple...how long does it take say per RAW image with the reader? How bout a max size JPG? Thanks.
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01/22/2005 02:14:33 PM · #133 |
| Transferring files with a card reader is just like copying any other files from CD, hard drive, etc. It depends mainly on the bus speed where you have the reader plugged in -- it will probably take a couple of seconds/MB with USB I and about 1/10th that with USB II. |
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01/22/2005 02:15:27 PM · #134 |
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01/22/2005 02:29:36 PM · #135 |
| The delay from when you push the shutter to when it actually takes the photo in low light. Thats the thorn in point and shoot digitals, even good ones |
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01/22/2005 02:41:07 PM · #136 |
300D
1) No built in image stabilization
2) Poor low light performance with affordable lenses (F3.5 and up) including too much noise at ISO 400 and ISO 800
3) Lack of ISO below 50 to use instead of NDF
4) Crop factor
5) Dealing with Dust Bunnies
6) Big and clunky
7) No affordable high quality ultrazoom so I only
need one lens on hikes and for travel
Canon IS S1:
1) Too little resolution
2) No RAW mode
3) Too much noise above ISO 200
4) Lack of threads so you can add filters without adding a lens attachment which makes the camera less pocketable
5) Lack of 35mm equivalents of 24mm-36mm
6) 10x rather than 12x or 14x zoom
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01/22/2005 03:02:05 PM · #137 |
Deapee,
I'm still USB 1.0 (my upgrade to 2.0 has bugs) and I can download a dozen RAW images (my average number of "frames" on a given shoot) from my Compact Flash card in about 2 minutes. That's 10 seconds per image.
Robt.
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01/22/2005 03:03:15 PM · #138 |
Originally posted by nshapiro:
300D
1) No built in image stabilization
2) Poor low light performance with affordable lenses (F3.5 and up) including too much noise at ISO 400 and ISO 800
3) Lack of ISO below 50 to use instead of NDF
4) Crop factor
5) Dealing with Dust Bunnies
6) Big and clunky
7) No affordable high quality ultrazoom so I only
need one lens on hikes and for travel
Canon IS S1:
1) Too little resolution
2) No RAW mode
3) Too much noise above ISO 200
4) Lack of threads so you can add filters without adding a lens attachment which makes the camera less pocketable
5) Lack of 35mm equivalents of 24mm-36mm
6) 10x rather than 12x or 14x zoom |
This is a DSLR.
1)The image stablization is in the lens if you opt to buy a lens with IS. No DSLR has onboard body IS.
2) You will have the limitations shooting with a slow lens in low light with most any SLR or DSLR. This is not a limitation of the body, but the lens. Buy a faster lens.
6)The 300D is as small and lightwieght as any SLR or DSLR.
7) This again is no fault of the 300D. Ultrazooms are way overrated anyway. They present a trade-off with quality and speed.
I don't think anyone makes a camera for you. Any DSLR without a crop factor is twice as big and 3 times as heavy as the 300D and any camera with built in IS is a P&S all of which also have a crop factor.
Message edited by author 2005-01-22 15:04:40.
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01/22/2005 03:12:24 PM · #139 |
Originally posted by nsbca7:
Originally posted by nshapiro:
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No DSLR has onboard body IS.
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No Canon DSLR has onboard body IS. The new Minolta digital SLR does. That is one of it's main selling points.
What I would like on my camera is a real time histogram visible as an overlay in the viewfinder.
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01/22/2005 03:18:05 PM · #140 |
10D
1. Slow write speed.
2. Slow write speed.
3. Slow write speed from buffer when full
4. Not possible to set aperture and speed, and let the camera adjust ISO in adv mode.
5. Low clearance built in flash.
6. Slow write speed.
7. Long delay from shot to image on LCD
8. Not possible to review shots while camera clears buffer
9. Slow write speed.
10. Small and dim viewfinder and difficult to do high precision man. focus.
edit: 11. ISO speed not visible anywhere. Should be in VF or top LCD.
Message edited by author 2005-01-22 15:19:07.
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01/22/2005 03:19:26 PM · #141 |
Originally posted by nsbca7:
This is a DSLR.
1)The image stablization is in the lens if you opt to buy a lens with IS. No DSLR has onboard body IS.
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Not quite true...the new Konica Minolta Maxxum 7D has image stabilization in the body.
I'm still a bit of a newb with taking thought out shots, the biggest problem I've had with my 20D so far is that it doesn't support USB2GO which would have been nice. I think the synergy of camera tech with mp3 players via USB2GO/Firewire has some great potential if the manufacturers support it.
Message edited by author 2005-01-22 15:23:27. |
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01/22/2005 03:23:19 PM · #142 |
Originally posted by cpanaioti:
What I would like on my camera is a real time histogram visible as an overlay in the viewfinder. |
By "real time" do you mean before the shot? My 1Ds has a histogram available as soon as the shoot is made.
As far as onboard IS I'm not sure I would even use it. I didn't know about the Minolta. I don't really follow much of what they do. The poor selection of really good glass Minolta has put out over the years has eliminated them as major players in the SLR/DSLR world as far as I am concerned.
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01/22/2005 03:23:35 PM · #143 |
Olympus E-10:
Noise levels at anything over ISO80 (even a bit noisy at ISO80) and 1/640 sec max shutter speed.
The 20D day is coming...
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01/22/2005 03:33:21 PM · #144 |
Originally posted by nsbca7:
Originally posted by cpanaioti:
What I would like on my camera is a real time histogram visible as an overlay in the viewfinder. |
By "real time" do you mean before the shot? My 1Ds has a histogram available as soon as the shoot is made.
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Most cameras that provide a histogram provide it after the shot is taken. Having it there when the shutter is half pressed (like other exposure information) would be a great benefit.
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01/22/2005 03:36:03 PM · #145 |
for me, it would be the fact that i cant turn on the AF Servo and the mirror lock up (without installing the hacked firmware). also the silver casing.
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01/22/2005 03:37:17 PM · #146 |
Originally posted by cpanaioti:
Originally posted by nsbca7:
Originally posted by cpanaioti:
What I would like on my camera is a real time histogram visible as an overlay in the viewfinder. |
By "real time" do you mean before the shot? My 1Ds has a histogram available as soon as the shoot is made.
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Most cameras that provide a histogram provide it after the shot is taken. Having it there when the shutter is half pressed (like other exposure information) would be a great benefit. |
For the same reason you don't get live what the sensor sees in the LCD, DSLRs will never have real time histograms. The nicer P&S cameras seem to have RT historgrams pretty often these days though.
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01/22/2005 04:03:58 PM · #147 |
Originally posted by BradP:
The 20D day is coming... |
No, please don't. It's hardly fair the way it is -- if anything, I say you get a disposable and are required to scan your photos in. ;-)
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01/22/2005 04:07:06 PM · #148 |
| the fiddly little focus selection switch,its in the wrong place and easy to knock your setting off apart from that absolutely nothing |
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01/22/2005 04:17:57 PM · #149 |
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01/22/2005 04:22:12 PM · #150 |
Originally posted by nsbca7:
I don't think anyone makes a camera for you. Any DSLR without a crop factor is twice as big and 3 times as heavy as the 300D and any camera with built in IS is a P&S all of which also have a crop factor. |
1. As others have pointed out, the Minolta does have onboard IS
6. The new pentax models are much smaller and lighter
7. I was referring to the Canon EF 35-350mm f/3.5-5.6L USM Zoom Lens. It's just too expensive.
As to your conclusion, besides the incorrect basis you made it on, I wasn't asking for anyone to recommend a model but merely reflecting on what I didn't like per the thread. To be honest, this is at least the third time you've responded to one of my posts in an somewhat offensive way. Maybe it's just your way of speaking, but feel free to not respond to them in the future. |
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