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07/10/2008 11:25:26 PM · #26 |
Originally posted by option:
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
Your camera records with 12 bits.
When you chimp to set exposure, you're only using 8 bits of information to decide how to collect 12 bits of information.
That's not being smart. |
Alright, I said I wouldn't get involved...
...BUT, why is it that you insist on attacking the intelligence of anyone who disagrees with you? |
In this case it's just to make you go back on your word.
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07/10/2008 11:27:39 PM · #27 |
Originally posted by OdysseyF22:
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
Originally posted by OdysseyF22:
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
Originally posted by Megatherian:
why not just use the built in light meter and histogram? |
several reasons, and if your using flash (other than eTTL) you need a meter to measure the flash to set the camera. If you have one flash only, perhaps you can make do. But have 2 or 3 or 5...if you need the main light 1 stop over the fill, and the kicker equal to the main, and the nair light perhaps 1 stop under the main...ain't no histogram gonna do that! |
Actually, I use three strobes all the time without a light meter. Once you're comfortable with your equipment, you start to learn what settings it will take to set it all up right. I can get my lights set corrently in a scene with just a few minutes of chimping.
Will the meter get you there faster? I dunno, maybe. But I tend to think that if you're metering and then adjusting lights to tune them in, or chimping and then tuning...what's the difference? |
Your camera records with 12 bits.
When you chimp to set exposure, you're only using 8 bits of information to decide how to collect 12 bits of information.
That's not being smart. |
Perhaps, but I usually manage to get really darn close to my target exposure, usually only having to boost it by .15 to .50 in Camera Raw. And several times I've been dead on.
I see a meter as being another piece of expensive equipment to haul around with me. I thought about getting one but the Strobist group talked me out of it; they said I'd learn to get it right without one, and I did.
Guess it just depends on what kind of person you are; some like extra tools, some like to wing it. |
How do you know you were dead on? |
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07/10/2008 11:33:39 PM · #28 |
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
In this case it's just to make you go back on your word. |
Ah, but I'm not talking about the merits of light meters... |
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07/11/2008 12:37:42 AM · #29 |
Originally posted by option:
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
In this case it's just to make you go back on your word. |
Ah, but I'm not talking about the merits of light meters... |
No, but you're involved. |
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07/11/2008 12:42:50 AM · #30 |
| Why not s simple gray card. It's not just for white balance you know. |
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07/11/2008 06:57:27 AM · #31 |
| I learned without a meter and whenever I use one today I ask myself this? Why did I need that meter to tell me I was 1/3 of a stop underexposed when I would have seen it in a few seconds? Was it to save me one exposure? The only place I ever use a meter is with my studio strobes. I don't even carry it in my bag when i'm out. |
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07/11/2008 07:05:10 AM · #32 |
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
Originally posted by OdysseyF22:
Perhaps, but I usually manage to get really darn close to my target exposure, usually only having to boost it by .15 to .50 in Camera Raw. And several times I've been dead on.
I see a meter as being another piece of expensive equipment to haul around with me. I thought about getting one but the Strobist group talked me out of it; they said I'd learn to get it right without one, and I did.
Guess it just depends on what kind of person you are; some like extra tools, some like to wing it. |
How do you know you were dead on? |
I read the histogram. Not just on the camera, but also in Camera Raw when I open the photo there. If the exposure looks just right there, and the histogram agrees, then I'd say it's dead on.
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