| Author | Thread |
|
|
04/20/2007 12:30:39 AM · #26 |
Originally posted by Brad:
Suggestion:
Knowing what "can" be left behind with Scotch® Tape, the blue 3M® painter's
tape is a far safer product to use and will never leave a residue. |
I'm not sure what you think gets left behind when using scotch tape, but I can assure you I've used scotch tape on my sensor literally 50 times and nothing has ever been left behind.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 12:36:59 AM · #27 |
In New Zealand we get a think called Post it Notes. The sticky part of these are good as they leave no residue. They are not as sticky as tape. I have used these for some time now with great results.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 01:13:09 AM · #28 |
Originally posted by deapee:
I'm not sure what you think gets left behind when using scotch tape, but I can assure you I've used scotch tape on my sensor literally 50 times and nothing has ever been left behind. |
Doesn't a portion of the "sticky stuff" adhere to the glass? Else how does it "stick" in the first place? Even if it's microscopic, it seems that it would have to leave "something" behind. An even microscopic is no good ... because that's about how big the pixels are on the sensor. Leave anything behind and, over time, you're bound to cloud up the sensor.
Anyway, I'd be scared to death to try it...
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 02:28:30 AM · #29 |
Originally posted by Steveinnz:
In New Zealand we get a think called Post it Notes. The sticky part of these are good as they leave no residue. They are not as sticky as tape. I have used these for some time now with great results. |
Do some research on this as I did.
Transparent/Scotch tape can and often does leave a very minute amount of residue when it is lifted off, where as the blue painter's tape doesn't. The adhesive on the blue tape is like the Post-It Notes. Ever see a painter use Scotch tape for masking? It's far too aggressive. The blue tape leaves nothing behind, and the area where it was lifted off can be painted over with no clean-up. |
|
|
|
04/20/2007 02:29:23 AM · #30 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
Expound on this a bit Brad. |
See the post above ^ |
|
|
|
04/20/2007 02:41:21 AM · #31 |
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
My 30D seems a magnet for dust, even came with some factory installed - hence the need to buy the gear. |
Ditto. The 30D seems a lot worse for dust than the Rebel was. But it does have WAY WAY better battery life, so it's probably a fair trade. I've not tried the tape method, but my last two attempts with the pec pads and the solution have left a couple of stubborn dust cows. I do have that nifty blue tape... |
|
|
|
04/20/2007 03:27:07 AM · #32 |
Originally posted by Brad:
...Transparent/Scotch tape can and often does leave a very minute amount of residue when it is lifted off,... |
and this amount of residue usually increases with it's age, and it's exposure to the enviroments for extend periods of time. I know I'd NEVER use the tape we have here at work for something like that, this crap leaves it's adhesive all over the place. Painters tape is a great idea, and even comes in different widths. |
|
|
|
04/20/2007 05:39:00 AM · #33 |
random scotch tape or even post-it, i'd be very scared. Because first I'd be afraid of just once leaving some extra residue, and second I'd be afraid of leaving very small residue I don't know of. We are in tiny tiny land here.
However the other day I noticed this one: did anyone try it?
//www.dust-aid.com |
|
|
|
04/20/2007 07:30:11 AM · #34 |
Pardon the pun but I'll "stick" with my Sensor brush method...2 minute job, NO chance of residue...
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 07:37:13 AM · #35 |
I ended going with a kit from Microtools. The kit comes with a little bottle of methanol (dries fast, no residue) and the cleaning tools - no brushes - rather a soft disposable cloth on an applicator.
Works really well and cleans the sensor very effectively.
Microtools |
|
|
|
04/20/2007 08:02:03 AM · #36 |
i will never use tape
- been using copperhill method for 5 years
now nearing the bottom of the second bottle of alcohol ..
never scratched & with luck i can clean the sensor in two-three tries
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 08:24:20 AM · #37 |
Sure beats the spit shine method.
I still use the Pbase coperhill (?) method. Whatever works.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 08:54:06 AM · #38 |
I tried the tape method on my Fuji S3, and the sensor came out attached to the tape.
Only kiddin' : P
One of my nephew's buddies was using the copperhill method, and the batteries went dead in the camera, allowing the shutter to close on the cleaner. It was a disaster, so be aware that it can happen and and use good strong batteries or a plug in power supply.
I use a clean fresh "Q tip" brand swab. I blow the "Q tip" off first with canned air to remove any loose fibers, then barely touch the sensor as I wipe it clean. No problems yet,and it works like a champ and leaves nothing behind. The dust cows go up into the fibers of the swab. I discovered the method in desperation while sailing the Bahamas last summer.
The PDF download at the site below is excellent and informative. If anyone wants to test the tape method for residue, the "test it on a UV filter" method suggested in the PDF would be a good way to do it.
Brush Your Sensor PDF
Message edited by author 2007-04-20 08:55:09.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 09:15:57 AM · #39 |
| I've been tempted to try this for awhile and my sensor is pretty bad... I'm going to test it on a filter, inspect closely, and maybe give it a go tonight! |
|
|
|
04/20/2007 09:19:57 AM · #40 |
Originally posted by pccjrose:
I ended going with a kit from Microtools. The kit comes with a little bottle of methanol (dries fast, no residue) and the cleaning tools - no brushes - rather a soft disposable cloth on an applicator.
Works really well and cleans the sensor very effectively.
Microtools |
I got a micro tools kit also ... works great ... |
|
|
|
04/20/2007 09:52:33 AM · #41 |
Originally posted by deapee:
... Oh, and honestly, you wouldn't see those specs at like f/8 or larger anyway. |
I still don̢۪t understand what does aperture of the lens has to do with seeing dust on sensor.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 09:56:05 AM · #42 |
Originally posted by pccjrose:
I ended going with a kit from Microtools. The kit comes with a little bottle of methanol (dries fast, no residue) and the cleaning tools - no brushes - rather a soft disposable cloth on an applicator.
Works really well and cleans the sensor very effectively.
Microtools |
The fatal flaw in that method is that if you have a hard dust particle (for instance a sand grain) in there you would simply be stamping it around the entire sensor. The method defies logic. |
|
|
|
04/20/2007 10:08:44 AM · #43 |
Originally posted by idnic:
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
Cindi, I figured I could copperhill it if it didn't work. If that didn't work, then I could go visit some friends in Pittsburgh while finding deapee and strangling him with one of his many guns. |
Good point! I'm too cheap to pay for cooperhill, but the rocket blower just isn't working. Both of my cameras are filthy. I'm tempted..... |
I have yet to find a speck of dust that the rocket blower won't get rid of...
sure you're squeezing that thing hard enough?
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 10:14:12 AM · #44 |
Originally posted by kudzu:
Originally posted by idnic:
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
Cindi, I figured I could copperhill it if it didn't work. If that didn't work, then I could go visit some friends in Pittsburgh while finding deapee and strangling him with one of his many guns. |
Good point! I'm too cheap to pay for cooperhill, but the rocket blower just isn't working. Both of my cameras are filthy. I'm tempted..... |
I have yet to find a speck of dust that the rocket blower won't get rid of...
sure you're squeezing that thing hard enough? |
LOL I think so! :P The rocket blower has been doing a good job to get rid of MOST of my dust, but I have some dust boogers that seem to be stuck really well and just stay there cleaning after cleaning.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 10:20:09 AM · #45 |
Originally posted by Nikolai1024:
Originally posted by deapee:
... Oh, and honestly, you wouldn't see those specs at like f/8 or larger anyway. |
I still don̢۪t understand what does aperture of the lens has to do with seeing dust on sensor. |
The smaller the aperture, the more focused the light rays coming in and the sharper the dust particles will appear to be on the sensor. With a large aperture, you have light coming in from all around the dust particle (above, below, all sides) and that diffuses the dust particle. So the dust may still be there, just not as sharply visible.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 10:24:01 AM · #46 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
Originally posted by Nikolai1024:
Originally posted by deapee:
... Oh, and honestly, you wouldn't see those specs at like f/8 or larger anyway. |
I still don̢۪t understand what does aperture of the lens has to do with seeing dust on sensor. |
The smaller the aperture, the more focused the light rays coming in and the sharper the dust particles will appear to be on the sensor. With a large aperture, you have light coming in from all around the dust particle (above, below, all sides) and that diffuses the dust particle. So the dust may still be there, just not as sharply visible. |
Yup, yup. The best way to see this for yourself - take a shot of the sky at f5 and another at f22. I always shoot the sky when I'm checking my camera for dust, works better than a white wall because the extra light really shows you where those boogies are.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 10:26:17 AM · #47 |
Originally posted by Nikolai1024:
Originally posted by deapee:
... Oh, and honestly, you wouldn't see those specs at like f/8 or larger anyway. |
I still don̢۪t understand what does aperture of the lens has to do with seeing dust on sensor. |
Try this with your camera:
1) Point your camera at a white wall.
2) Go to manual focus and DEFOCUS the lens as much as possible.
3) In AV mode, set the aperture to wide open and the ISO to 100 let the camera compute shutter speed. Take the picture.
4) Copy the image to your computer.
5) Open in Photoshop click Auto Levels.
6) Save the image.
Now repeat all of the above steps but with the smallest aperture available on your lens. Obviously it will be a long exposure. That's okay. And don't worry about holding the camera steady (remeber you defocused the lens).
Now compare the two images. You'll be shocked at the dust you find your sensor! :-)
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 10:27:19 AM · #48 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
Originally posted by Nikolai1024:
Originally posted by deapee:
... Oh, and honestly, you wouldn't see those specs at like f/8 or larger anyway. |
I still don̢۪t understand what does aperture of the lens has to do with seeing dust on sensor. |
The smaller the aperture, the more focused the light rays coming in and the sharper the dust particles will appear to be on the sensor. With a large aperture, you have light coming in from all around the dust particle (above, below, all sides) and that diffuses the dust particle. So the dust may still be there, just not as sharply visible. |
It seems a bit hard to believe. Light has to be already focused and directional as it hits the sensor. I guess I'll have to test it out for myself.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 10:30:24 AM · #49 |
Originally posted by pineapple:
Originally posted by pccjrose:
I ended going with a kit from Microtools. The kit comes with a little bottle of methanol (dries fast, no residue) and the cleaning tools - no brushes - rather a soft disposable cloth on an applicator.
Works really well and cleans the sensor very effectively.
Microtools |
The fatal flaw in that method is that if you have a hard dust particle (for instance a sand grain) in there you would simply be stamping it around the entire sensor. The method defies logic. |
I use my vacuum cleaner (the nozzle part and very, very, very carefully) to hoover out the dust first and get rid of any hard dust particles, wet clean afterwards using the copperhill method. Worked like a charm up to now.
I tried the Scotch Tape method the first time I cleaned the low pass filter of my D70 and nearly had a heart attack when I saw how much residue was stuck to the filter. No way would I try that again.
|
|
|
|
04/20/2007 10:35:38 AM · #50 |
| I suggest calling and finding out how much a new sensor costs if you ruin it. Then decide if it's worth the chance. Last year tried the tape method. Since it does'nt get the corner I then tried the stickem note method. Then to get the double tape residue off I used a photo swab. I then noticed the scratches. I then paid several hundred dollars at Canon replacing the sensor. I too thought I was being careful. Don't do it unless you can afford a new sensor. Kinda like being in front of a Las Vegas slot machine. Sometimes you win but the casino always takes you money in the end. |
|
Home -
Challenges -
Community -
League -
Photos -
Cameras -
Lenses -
Learn -
Help -
Terms of Use -
Privacy -
Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2025 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Current Server Time: 09/04/2025 10:38:55 AM EDT.
