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04/13/2007 08:44:23 AM · #1 |
Hey all, i'm just about to get a Sigma 10-20mm lens, and I'd like to get some filters to go with it. Currently I'm leaning towards the Cokin P series with a wide angle holder. I've heard of the colour cast issues, but is it worth upgrading to something like the Lee system? and is the ultra wide angle holder enough to support the sigma @ 10mm without vignetting?
More importantly, I'm trying to decide WHAT filters to get in particular. I'm looking to get ND grads primarily, but I have no idea which ones to get. On the Cokin website (//www.cokin.fr/ico3-p1-6.html), there's 6 different neutral density ND's. Which ones should i get? Do I need them all? Is there a "list of priority"?
And finally, do you ever stack multiple ND grads on top of each other?
For reference, I really like to do pre-sunrise/sunset style landscpae photos, and especially love the work of terje ( //www.dpchallenge.com/profile.php?USER_ID=15497). These are the types of shots I hope to take with my new outfit :)
so in summary
1) Cokin P series acceptable? Will the wide angle holder be enough for the sigma at 10mm? Is it worth upgrading to Lee system/other?
2) Which graduated ND's to buy?
3) do you stack multiple filters on top of each other?
Thanks in advance :)
Message edited by author 2007-04-13 08:44:50. |
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04/13/2007 09:01:24 AM · #2 |
| I recently bought the P series holder and ND8, and on my Canon 10-22mm the holder is clearly visible between 10-12mm, but fine from 13mm onwards. The problem with the Z series or the Lee is that it is not just the holder that is more expensive, so are the larger filters. You need to work out how often you would need them at the widest to work out whether it is worth the extra expense. |
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04/13/2007 09:21:43 AM · #3 |
"and is the ultra wide angle holder enough to support the sigma @ 10mm without vignetting?"
I am led to believe that the there will be no vignetting at 10mm with the wide angle holder as long as you keep the filter square to the camera and don't rotate it.
I have the Standard holder which does vignette lots.
Message edited by author 2007-04-13 09:22:33. |
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04/13/2007 09:22:31 AM · #4 |
I have the same set-up as Sara, and also found that I could see the holder at the widest setting - just when I REALLY wanted to use it!!
Luckily I noticed it on the screen when I checked the photo, so I tried simply holding the filter by hand and it worked just fine.
Since I don't use that combination very often, I'm happy to keep going with what I have.
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04/13/2007 09:28:19 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by diablo2097:
...so in summary
1) Cokin P series acceptable? Will the wide angle holder be enough for the sigma at 10mm? Is it worth upgrading to Lee system/other?
2) Which graduated ND's to buy?
3) do you stack multiple filters on top of each other? |
1) Cokin filters, and all the other cheap equipment I have for that matter, are acceptable to me because I don't strive to, say, get large prints that are of high enough quality to be displayed in galleries. In other words, considering what I do with my photographs (display them on the web, print a few for myself and friends, etc.) and the budget I can spare for equipment, they are more than acceptable and I've never had problems with color cast. Whether they're good enough for your purposes or not, whether you should/could spend quite a lot of money on so-called "pro level" filters or not, I can't answer.
2) Personally, I use 3-stop soft edged GND the most.
3) I do. |
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04/13/2007 09:50:23 AM · #6 |
| another question is when do you use hard ND grads, and when to use soft? Eg what would you use for a pre-sunrise shot of an oceanscape? |
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04/13/2007 11:48:38 PM · #7 |
I've been happy with the Cokin P system, but I haven't used anything as wide as a 10mm lens. My widest lenses are 20-35 full-frame and 18-70 APS - but, like someone else mentioned, I can get vignetting even with the wide-angle holder if it's not oriented correctly.
I only got one ND grad. I guess the choice would be based on the typical contrast difference between sky and sea/land where you photograph. If in doubt, I'd tend to err on the side of weaker rather than stronger ND, but that's just me.
AFAIR, I've occasionally stacked a couple of grads (ND and a coloured) but never actually taken photos with them stacked. I have stacked non-graduated filters though, including an ND4 and ND8 together for really long exposures, or a polariser and a correction/contrast filter when shooting film.
One other thing - I've heard the Cokin ND grads are actually grey grads, not ND grads, they supposedly do have a slight colour cast (but I don't know in which direction).
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04/14/2007 12:13:18 AM · #8 |
You could just get the good stuff:
//singh-ray.com/ |
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04/14/2007 12:26:15 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by diablo2097:
another question is when do you use hard ND grads, and when to use soft? Eg what would you use for a pre-sunrise shot of an oceanscape? |
The fun thing is, you can decide how soft or hard your filter is gonna be by adjusting your diafragma. If you use a high F-number, your transition is gonna be harder than with a low F-number.
I've got a set of Hi-Tech (www.formatt.co.uk for info) filters myself. They're better than Cokin and cheaper than singh-ray or lee. I'm using a P-system on a tokina 12-24 and don't get any vignetting. Got 4 ND-grads (0.3, 0.6, 0.9 and 1.2) and a normal ND-filter (1.2). I paid about 80 euros for all of those filters together. The only thing I could imagine wanting is a polarizer or an IR-filter. But polarizers are damned expensive, and Hi-Tech doesn't offer IR.
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