There are probably basic flash info sites out there on web, but lets see if i can help with the basics.
You have on-camera flash (eTTL or non-eTTL) and then studio flash or continous lighting.
Lets ignore continous lighting for this discussion.
eTTL or non-eTTL - eTTL (ThruTheLens) uses the camera's brains to figure out the proper amount of light needed from the flash. Some flash units have an 'auto' mode that does this as well - a built in light meter if you will.
ALL studio flash is totally manual - you the photographer set the lights, each one, to what you want it to be or do. You also set the camera to record the scene properly. For studio flash you put the camera on manual, 1/125 and adjust the aperture to control the exposure. Because the duration of the flash event, you need a flash meter to read the light. There are many out there, but a good one is a Sekonic L358. yeah, it's not cheap, but you're gonna need one.
Studio flash come in 2 basic varietis - monolight (everything in the flash head and you just plug it into the wall outlet) or pack and head - you plug the pack into the wall, the flash heads then plug into the pack. Monolights are cheaper and more common.
Alien Bee or Paterson Interfit Stellar are good lights. The Paterson units are a good bit less costly for the same output as the AB lights.
You need to tell the lights when to fire - 3 ways to do it- via a PC cord that physically attached from the camera (pc socket or pc to hotshoe adapter). About the third time you play with your lights you'll hate the cord deal.
all monolights have sensors that will fire them when they see another flash go off. Great for flash units 2, 3, 4, etc, but for the main light it'd mean still using on-camera flash. It can be made to work, but it's less than ideal in many ways.
The best way is wireless trigger. There are cheap versions out there, but for the most reliable buy a set of Pocket Wizards. One goes on the camera's hot shoe and the other on a flash unit. Not cheap, but it has one other advantage - you can get a module for the Sekonic meter that will let you fire the flashes wirelessly - you;ll understand why this is the best ideas since sliced bread if you move your lights much and have to re-measure and adjust their output.
At to your sunpack...if it is eTTL compatible with your Pentax, put the camera in Av mode or P mode and go shoot at F5.6. If not, then tru manual mode, ISO 400, F4 or 5.6 and 1/60 to 1/100 shutter. The flash should have some auto mode to it and this should work.
If the flash is all manual or has very basic auto mode, it's you that has to do all the mental computations - mainly, set the flash and camera for the right exposure at 10 feet to the subject, and then keep the subject at 10 feet. if the subject is closer, you need less light or a smaller aperture, and if farther away then more light or a larger aperture.
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