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11/11/2006 12:17:09 PM · #1 |
not sure how well known this trick is, but it's new to me.
using adjustment layers with no actual adjusments made - outside of the blending mode ( not basic editing safe ).
open an image - create any new adjustment layer but don't adjust anything.
to make the image one stop lighter change the blending mode of the adjustment layer to 'screen'.
to make the image one stop darker change the blending mode to 'multiply'
for a two stop change; etc. create a second adjustment layer and repeat.
to make say a 1/2 stop change - change the opacity of the adjustment layer to 50%.
to affect local areas only - use the adjustment layers mask to hide and reveal only what you'd like to effect.
taken from pcphoto october 2006 issue - page 52
Message edited by author 2006-11-11 12:18:45.
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11/11/2006 12:21:37 PM · #2 |
i will have to try it, thanks for the tip;) |
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11/11/2006 12:24:27 PM · #3 |
outside of a raw editor i figure it might be usefull for making quantative adjustments to exposure. add to that the masking capability and it seems like it might be a usefull trick.
the other thing i read was that an adjustment layer - by dafault - applies to all layer underneath. you have to link it to a specific layer to have the effects rendered only on that layer - picture a layer you have masked and only want to effect what is revealed by the mask. you'll have to link the adjustment layer to the masked layer.
Message edited by author 2006-11-11 12:27:05.
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11/11/2006 12:26:49 PM · #4 |
I use this trick quite a bit (I tend to be an underexposer) and it works quite well. One thing to watch for especially in blacks is it may raise noise levels, in certain circumstances, if you use it too strongly. And using the a layer mask really helps to brighten up faces. I learned that trick from KevinRiggs and it's been very useful to me. |
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11/11/2006 12:28:01 PM · #5 |
this may be a good deal of your issues with the noise.
//www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml
Originally posted by jenesis: I use this trick quite a bit (I tend to be an underexposer)
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Message edited by author 2006-11-11 12:31:18.
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11/11/2006 12:35:48 PM · #6 |
Yeah, I'm definitely trying to get over my bad habits. But for some reason I have an overwhelming fear of blown highlights probably stemming from my early shooting days. So to compensate I completely flipped. I'm beginning to find a good middle ground though. :-) |
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11/11/2006 01:20:35 PM · #7 |
use auto bracketing - that'll get you in the habit of comparing the different exposures and their attributes.
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11/11/2006 02:24:19 PM · #8 |
This is something that John Arnold has been talking about for some time on PhotoWalkthrough.
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11/11/2006 02:33:18 PM · #9 |
You do have to watch for noise when doing this, especially in the shadows. I shoot RAW so, I can adjust exposure in conversion and I will pull the exposure down in conversion. But, for the most part, if I have to push it by more than 1/2 to 1 stop, I'm just gonna throw the shot out.
I'd much rather pull a shot down and know I'm decreasing noise than to push it and add noise.
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11/11/2006 02:33:29 PM · #10 |
I've used that technique in the past but as an alternate way to do dodging and burning since it is non-destructive.
Message edited by author 2006-11-11 14:33:48. |
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11/11/2006 02:42:39 PM · #11 |
but in the RAW converter you can't add a stop to one area and decrease a stop in another. unless you process the file twice and then mask one of the layers in PS. this might be an alternative - while also eating up only half the drive space.
Originally posted by fotoman_forever: You do have to watch for noise when doing this, especially in the shadows. I shoot RAW so, I can adjust exposure in conversion and I will pull the exposure down in conversion. But, for the most part, if I have to push it by more than 1/2 to 1 stop, I'm just gonna throw the shot out. |
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