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09/29/2006 01:31:23 PM · #1 |
I have an Epson R300 and i am trying to print some A4 prints in B/W. It keeps coming out too dark and I loose alot of details in the shadows plus the overall tone of the image changes because of it.
I try everything I could come up with to fix it. I let PS control the colors, I let the printer control the colors. I tried boosting the brightness from the printer settings.
The only thing that showed some result was adding a curve layer to brighten the image on screen. But then it doesn't look like I want it and it's impossible to predict the print (it came out almost correct for the shadows but totally blown out the hightlights)
Can anyone please explain this too me? or atleast point me in the right directions. I have just printed 6 A4 copies of the same picture and all are useless.
Please help.... |
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09/29/2006 05:51:03 PM · #2 |
Have you calibrated your monitor? I use a Pantone Huey to calibrate mine and I find that, although the colors seem to be accurate, I still have to lower the brightness on my monitor to get it to match how the prints are coming out.
The Huey has a sensor that samples the ambient light and adjusts the monitor brightness automatically. I have to disable that feature to be able to adjust the brightness myself.
Hope that helps. |
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09/30/2006 03:08:07 AM · #3 |
Thanks.
I did not calibrate my monitor (I know that's horrible, but I ust cant afford a spyder or the likes at the moment), but I believe the colors to match the prints rather well. The problem is that it's too dark and it seems the dynamic range of the prints i much much smaller then what I get on screen. The whole feel and tonality of the image changes. It is most obvious in B/W prints. |
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09/30/2006 03:22:49 AM · #4 |
I get my local Fuli lab to print my digital images on a converted enlarger. This uses LED's to print on real photographic paper and you get a really good range of black white & grey and you don't get any yellow or magenta colour casts, you also get a print that is the same as whats on your monitor.
This doesn't cost any more than getting the shop to print on Ink Jet.
Because i use this method, I managed to get my college lecturers to stop complaining about me using digital instead of film for my portfolio. I find Ink Jet prints are really bad quality now! |
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09/30/2006 03:53:28 AM · #5 |
Vists here.
I can recomend getting a ICC color profile for you software. It's based on the devices you use. That way what you see on your screen is EXCATLY what will print.
Good luck
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09/30/2006 04:24:24 AM · #6 |
Originally posted by jimika: I get my local Fuli lab to print my digital images on a converted enlarger. This uses LED's to print on real photographic paper and you get a really good range of black white & grey and you don't get any yellow or magenta colour casts, you also get a print that is the same as whats on your monitor.
This doesn't cost any more than getting the shop to print on Ink Jet.
Because i use this method, I managed to get my college lecturers to stop complaining about me using digital instead of film for my portfolio. I find Ink Jet prints are really bad quality now! |
Yes I made that decision myself... although there are good labs and bad ones. Don't expect great prints from your local discount store. Once you find a good printer stick with them
Message edited by author 2006-10-03 07:26:21.
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09/30/2006 06:38:21 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by Leok:
Yes I made that decision myself... although there are good labs and bad ones. Don't expect great prints from your local discount store. Once you find a good printer stick with them |
For anyone in the UK I HIGHLY recomend Peak Imaging.
Massive range of products and services.
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10/01/2006 12:21:07 PM · #8 |
Thanks for the advice. I noticed that Epson has a technology called Print Image Natching. Anyone have any experience with it? It sounds like it can help get prints accurate but when I tried using it seems it only recognizes un maipulated images. I don't really see the point then. |
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10/01/2006 12:30:42 PM · #9 |
I think there's also a set of all-black/gray inks meant specifically for printing B&W on inkjets, thjough I've never personally used it -- I prefer to get photographic prints made on Fuji/Noritsu machines ... |
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10/01/2006 08:15:14 PM · #10 |
I had a similar problem with my Epson Stylus C82 printer. And my monitor is calibrated (using the Adobe Gamma utility that came with Photoshop Elements). The solution I used was to lower the Gamma setting in the printer settings dialog box. I don't know if the R300 has that setting, but have a look (if you don't see it and there is a button labeled "Advanced", click it).
Also, be sure you've selected the correct paper setting for the paper you are using. Some paper types require more ink than others, and a mismatch could result in darker than desired prints. |
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