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 09/21/2006 10:51:56 PM · #26
Originally posted by patrinus:
When you talk about flashes, do you really mean flashes (like Canon, Nikon or Sigma flashguns) or strobes?. There is a very interesting blog about lighting with flashes Strobist but I wonder if a setup of only flashes would really give you enough power and enough quality as studio lighting equipment.

Also I know that flashes are measured by GN, and studio flashes by Watts, is there a way to convert GN to Watts in order to know the equivalence?


I've actually found the ability to go ANYWHERE with my flash quite freeing for my photography.

I wouldn't worry too incredibly much about the output, unless you just LOVE using high f/ or have a huge space to set your strobes back. I use my 150/ws strobes powered down to 1/8th in my living room and most of the time I'm still at f/10. Check my self portrait gallery for some of the stuff I've been doing with what I learned from Strobist. I'm totally sold on slaved/wireless flashes instead big ole' strobes. For the same price as a pro studio setup, I can have lights that work in and out of the studio. Right now I still use the bigguns, but I have fun adding the flash in there too.

Just IMO of course (could it be any other way?)




Message edited by author 2006-09-21 22:52:19.
 09/21/2006 11:06:48 PM · #27
How did you setup for that Day 6 shot?
 09/21/2006 11:41:52 PM · #28
Originally posted by routerguy666:
How did you setup for that Day 6 shot?




EDIT - Oh yeah, I did that IN MY YARD. at f/22 :D

Message edited by author 2006-09-21 23:43:31.
 09/22/2006 08:38:13 AM · #29
I thought it might have been as simple as that, but you must have some crazy control over your nerves. I'd have been blinking like I was staring into the sun with the flash blasting off in my face like that. Very cool, thanks for sharing.
 09/22/2006 10:18:53 AM · #30
Originally posted by LucidLotus:

...I also need a background dealy and I saw one mentioned in another lighting thread that I can get at B&H so I'll have to add that in there too which would push past my limit.


Check this out.
Homemade PVC backdrop stand. I just made this. Total cost at Lowes was $17.83. Then I went to the fabric store and bought 54"x12' cloth for $6.00. Granted it is not very wide but it works for my level. My lighting is not good (hence my participation in this thread)and I need more space between the subject and backdrop, but the backdrop is a good color.
At that cost, it may help me get lighting sooner :-P

09/22/2006 12:03:22 PM · #31
The standard wisdom that makes it's way into most of these threads is to use strobes, and that is clearly a safe answer. I do think it's important to realize that a typical set of strob's isn't the only answer. If you did a bit, you can find serious commercial photographers that do amazing work without strobes, as well as with them. Mark Seliger's work in his stairwell is amazing, and we done with natural light plus reflectors (I believe). I've listened to a wonderul podcast by Mark Robert Halper where he talks about using shop lights through various fabrics and bounced off various surfaces. Continuous lights are still used for a lot of fashion photography and it seems there is a bit of a shift to full spectrum flourescents rather than hot lights.

My key point here is to not feel that you cannot do great studio work until you have the right set of strob lights.

P.S. One more link to a nice set of reasonable prices continuous lights from photoflex.
 09/22/2006 04:19:48 PM · #32
Thanks for the post about photoflex. I found their little 'class' on the setting up of the lights to be very informative and useful. I'm still looking at strobes myself, though I am contemplating continuous at first just so I can get a feel for portraiture and using all the different accessories.

I was curious about using flourescent lighting since it seemed they would have less of a heating issue too. Does anyone have experience with those?
 09/22/2006 04:39:40 PM · #33
Originally posted by LucidLotus:
I was curious about using flourescent lighting since it seemed they would have less of a heating issue too. Does anyone have experience with those?

Portable full spectrum flourescent lighting is till pricey. The most popular would be from Lowel, Kino Flo, and maybe the little portrait kit from Westcott.

I've been playing with a homebuilt flourescent softbox, but it is far from portable. I don't know of any flourescent equivalent to the standard halogen shoplight that provides enough full spectrum light for photography.
 09/22/2006 06:13:17 PM · #34
I've spent enough time using them to know: hot lights suck.
 09/23/2006 10:04:11 AM · #35
Ohh.. I meant to include this in my original posting but forgot..

I'm expecting there'll be folks using film cameras at our little portrait practice gathering.. how useful will they find the lights that've been recommended?

Do I need something separate for film or will these fit the bill for both styles (guessing I'd need more accessories)? I do still use my film camera (an EOS Rebel XTi) from time to time so its not entirely a one-off situation.

I truly appreciate all of the words of wisdom and practical help already offered, lighting choices are overwhelmingly numerous for us beginners so it makes a huge difference to know what folks who've used the different types have to say/suggest.

- Sia
 09/23/2006 12:47:00 PM · #36
Since color film does not have the advantage of adjustable white balance, if you use tungsten lights, they will either have to stick with Tungsten balance film or shoot with a blue 85B filter over the lens to correct the color. The filter will reduce the amount if light even further, meaning even slower shutter speeds.

Strobes on the other hand are roughly that same WB as the sun, so daylight film users should have no problem. They may wish to use a warming filter though, as strobes tend to be a bit cooler than daylight.
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