Having trouble using my Canon 100mm Macro, tips?

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

07/18/2006 11:22:51 PM · #1

The autofocus is driving me INSANE! It is worse than the Canon 75-300mm IS I used to have. It just searches and searches for a focus point. I have even tried selecting my focus point and focusing on one point on the object and it still searches. I am far enough away, and there is enough light. I could really use some tips!!!

Also, is it typical to have to use a tripod with this lens?

It is my first Macro, and while I have gotten some good shots (6+ scores), I still struggle using this lens.

gaurawa

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

07/18/2006 11:38:37 PM · #2

My copy of the 100mm macro is pretty good with focussing. Are you using all focus points or just one ?
the center focus point works faster normally in all cameras while the side ones are slower

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

07/18/2006 11:40:24 PM · #3

Originally posted by gaurawa:

My copy of the 100mm macro is pretty good with focussing. Are you using all focus points or just one ?
the center focus point works faster normally in all cameras while the side ones are slower

I've tried it with all, with the center, and with others. Even on something well definied it still searches. Drives me nuts. LOL

dwterry

Canon EOS-1D Mark III

07/18/2006 11:46:44 PM · #4

If you're shooting a portrait, the auto focus should work fine. If you're shooting a macro (i.e. up REALLY close) then put the camera on a tripod, switch to manual focus, set the lens to minimum focus distance, and then move the camera slowly towards the subject.

It's the only way to go! :-)

Message edited by author 2006-07-18 23:47:07.

dwterry

Canon EOS-1D Mark III

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

07/18/2006 11:48:22 PM · #5

Amazingly enough, this image is hand-held... but the front of the lens is mere inches (if that) from the flower.

eschelar

Canon EOS-7D

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

07/19/2006 09:51:03 AM · #6

Agreed. I only had a chance to use the older version of this lens, but I found it to be a bit weird with focusing.

There should be a slider for focusing at 3.5m-infinity or something very similar. Does that make a difference?

I've heard that the new version is much better.

Autofocus does work on macro subjects, but it's a bit weird.

kirbic

Canon EOS R5

Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8 L IS

07/19/2006 10:07:46 AM · #7

As suggested previously, if you're shooting macro, it's by far easier to turn AF off, set the lens to the desired distance and move back/forward a few inches (or millimeters!) to focus. If shooting in a normal focus range, set the range switch to disable close focus. That will limit the hunting. Also try pre-focusing by manually bringing it close to the distance your subject is at; AF will be much faster if it doesn't have to move focus across the entire range.
My 100mm Macro (USM version) occasionally hunted on my 10D, but does so far less often on the 5D. Because of the long travel of the AF mechanism on a macro lens, it's not as quick to focus as many non-macro lenses, but still quite adequate.
If you're having consistent problems with it hunting and none of the above solves it, there may be a problem.

Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8 L IS

07/19/2006 04:44:02 PM · #8

Thank you all. I am assuming I have the new version as it is only 6 months old or so. I only use it for macro, as I prefer my 24-70L for portraits. I guess this is a good time to practice my manual focusing then, LOL

kirbic

Canon EOS R5

07/19/2006 04:47:00 PM · #9

Originally posted by JRalston:

... I guess this is a good time to practice my manual focusing then, LOL

Yep!
Remember, macro focusing is best done with the the body... you body hthat is. Set the lens to get the magnification you want, then rock your body back & forth to hit the focus you want. Shoot several frames with slightly varying focus, and pick the best. It's a learned skill, but once yoiu practice it some it becomes pretty easy.

faidoi

Pentax K10D

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

07/19/2006 04:47:47 PM · #10

Originally posted by dwterry:

...or look into a focus rail ($$$)

LoudDog

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

07/19/2006 05:16:56 PM · #11

I've never had a problem with it focusing in good light. In low light it hunts a little but not too bad.

Did you make sure the little switch is set to the shorter focal range? If it's not on .36-infinity (I think that's what the close range setting is) it won't focus on close ups.

07/19/2006 05:30:59 PM · #12

Originally posted by LoudDog:

Yes, it is set on .36. It just hungs and hunts back on forth. Just when I think it is about to give be the beep of redemption, it starts hunting again..LOL

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

07/20/2006 09:07:38 PM · #13

Wow. So I just took my new 100mm out for a spin and man, there's really very very little room for movement! Squatting on my knees, I could barely stay still enough to keep the right things in focus. I know that I will love this lens but it will take some getting used to.

Ecce_Signum

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

07/20/2006 09:21:23 PM · #14

Wandering around the garden on your knees looking for bugs is one thing, using the 'rocking' method of focussing is another. I gave up on using the tripod/macro rail when I invested in the canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX, its not cheap but I use it on manual and just dial in my shutter speed/aperture and let the flash help my balance.

kyebosh

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4.0L USM

Canon EF 80-200mm f/2.8L

07/20/2006 09:30:24 PM · #15

manual focus all the time for macro work.

soup

Canon EOS-30D

07/20/2006 10:25:43 PM · #16

it's a great lens, and a work out to boot... ;}

Originally posted by mk:

07/21/2006 03:11:40 AM · #17

Originally posted by mk:

That is why I feel like i need to use a tripod with it..LOL

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

07/30/2006 01:59:04 PM · #18

Are you having any better luck, Jen? I am finding that about 95% of the time, I need to manual focus. I've been experimenting some more but find I am still having problems with proper DOF.

I found a dragonfly today and was able to get some decently focused shots, although unfortunately against a pretty horrible background.

Works nicely for cat portraits, too. ;)

Now I am off to clean my disgusting, disgusting sensor!

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

07/30/2006 02:26:26 PM · #19

Originally posted by mk:

Are you having any better luck, Jen? I am finding that about 95% of the time, I need to manual focus. I've been experimenting some more but find I am still having problems with proper DOF.

You're doing great, mk. The following is directed at people at large, not you; you may already know all this...

**********

In general, for focusing with a macro lens and hand-held, I recommend manual focus, a quick prefocus to set the basic range, then moving the camera in and out to isolate the desired plane of focus. As far as DOF goes, for nearly all extreme closeups the more DOF the better: when focused at 1:1 macro at f/22, your DOF is just a hair under a quarter of an inch...

So your main limit on DOF is going to be how brightly the subject is lit, as this will control how far you can stop down with a hand-holdable shutter speed. Obviously, you may want to shoot your macros at a higher ISO, buying yourself some extra shutter speed, which you can transfer into stopping down a little further.

It's very difficult to hand-hold and get sharp results at macro distances, where even the tiniest bit of camera movement during exposure will translate into significant angular movement and consequent degradation of the image. Speaking for myself, I find that I really need to use 1/125 or faster shutter speed to get really crisp results in macro, which means at ISO 100 shooting in full sunlight I can use f/16, which provides me with a workable DOF in macro terms. But in anything other than full sunlight, I need to bump up the ISO, basically; I'll frequently shoot hand-held macros at ISO 400 or 800.

Another trick that works for hand-held macros is to use burst mode to fire off several exposures per shutter click; one of these is likely to be significantly sharper than the others, and also you will find your plane of focus drifting ever-so-slightly during the burst, giving you more chances to isolate the absolute best plane of focus.

I hope all this is of some use to people :-)

R.

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

07/30/2006 07:08:11 PM · #20

Ahh..I've only been shooting at about f/5.6 so I guess there's my problem right there. Thanks for the info. :)

slickchik

OM System OM-1

Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro

07/30/2006 09:22:24 PM · #21

I sometimes have to help the lens by manually getting it into the right range for focus and then I let the autofocus take over. It is pretty quick to focus as long as you give it a good starting point.

Does that make sense?

Bear_Music

Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

07/31/2006 02:19:55 AM · #22

Originally posted by slickchik:

Yes, EXCEPT that autofocus is notoriously unreliable in terms of exactly what it brings into focus at macro distances. Much better to prefocus in manual mode and then physically move the camera in and out to attain focus on the plane where you want it. Incidentally, this is why ALL high-end macro lenses open up to at least f/2.8 even though you'll rarely shoot at that aperture: only with a really bright viewfinder can you accurately focus manually.

R.

Falc

Canon EOS-1D Mark III

Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L USM

07/31/2006 04:43:52 AM · #23

This was taken with the 100mm f2.8 macro lens.
I used to have problems with sharpness, but as you can see I've overcome that hurdle. How ... manual focus, tripod and rail. Now I NEVER take hand held macros as the success rate is way too low. I prefer the control that the tripod brings. In order to use the tripod I use field craft and timing to approach my subject with the tripod.

This shot was actually in the field, but it was very early morning so the dragonfly had not warmed up enough to fly. Great time to move the subject rather than move the camera !

You need f11 is minimum to get any decent depth of field, so light is very very important. When I shoot studio macro I use a 550EX and a 420EX very close to my subject. I also use refelectors to fill-in and not to lose any precious light.

Message edited by author 2006-07-31 04:53:33.

JudyMI

Canon EOS-5D

08/04/2006 02:02:38 PM · #24

I am having focus problems also with my Canon 100mm lense. I bought it when I was in film. Now I am using, or attempting to use it, on my Canon 5D. No luck! And I have a bird's nest right on a plant on my front porch, only 2' off the ground, perfect for photographing the progess of the eggs and chicks.
I have put the lense on "limit", put on my macro ring light, used my tripod with remote, used the 400 even 800 "speed", what else can I do? The camera just "searches" back and forth and won't land. The ring light has lamps you can use prior to taking the picture to light up the subject and I have had those on. Nothing.
HELP! The birds will be out of the nest. Judy

C-Fox