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 06/09/2006 11:21:51 AM · #26
Originally posted by cheekymunky:
I am thinking of having a go at IR photography, the examples here are stunning, but I heard some people have focus issues, dues to IR's wavelenght. Do you have problems and/or is it easy to compensate? I seem to remember 'old' lenses having a mark on them so you could re-focus for IR.

Cheers
MARK


Focusing is really not that big a deal with digital IR for several reasons. One is that with most digital cameras having smaller than 35mm size sensors, the lenses used are of shorter focal length for a given degree of coverage. As DOF decreases as focal length increases, this means the average shot has more inherent DOF than its 35mm counterpart. Also subject matter pays a roll in focusing errors. Most IR is of land/cityscapes, which by their nature often require stopping down for greater DOF and usually don’t require close focusing. Both help hide focusing errors.

Technically IR generally requires that the lens be set slightly closer than visible light requires. Older lenses with the IR mark are calibrated for 800nm, so even using Kodak HS IR film doesn’t insure complete accuracy given it’s sensitivity to 900nm. APO and mirror lenses are immune to this focus shift. Personally I use hyperfocal focusing for 95% of the IR I shoot. This insures that any inaccuracy is more than compensated for.
06/09/2006 12:55:40 PM · #27
The article about fake IR (using the internal 20D filters) settings was removed but I found where I posted it on a local site. This will get you close in Camera and then some tweaking in PS and you're darn near there.

Original from: PopPhoto.com
Not quite infrared: with the 20D If you go to the confusingly named Parameters in the menu, you can select b&w shooting.
Go one step deeper in the menu and you can choose a filter effect; red filter will give you the darkest skies.
While you’re poking around in the Parameters menu, also try boosting the contrast one notch to amplify the red-filter effect.

On a clear, blue-sky day, you can get something reminiscent of infrared b&w without the Photoshop.

Want lighter green foliage? Try the green filter effect, though it won’t darken skies as much.

We’ve found that setting a custom color temperature of 10,000 degrees Kelvin (select K on the top control panel, then go to Color temp. in the menu to dial in your setting),

or shifting white balance to amber and magenta (in the menu, select WB SHIFT/BKT and move the dot on the graph to A/M) can also lighten green foliage.

Don’t forget to cancel these settings for normal shooting.

Message edited by author 2006-06-09 12:56:31.
 06/09/2006 12:57:11 PM · #28
Great info, Andy. Thanks.
 06/09/2006 01:09:38 PM · #29
Originally posted by hyperfocal:
Originally posted by kirsty_mcn:
While theres so many IR users around, does anyone know about price/availability of IR films?? I'm trying to get hold of a Hoya R72, but as my Oly isn't IR-sensitive, I'll just be using it on my Dad's Sony. However, when I go away I obviously won't have access to the Sony, and though I'd try out some B+W IR film photography for a change. I'm worried about how much it will cost though - especially as its inherently risky in terms of exposure/focus.

Anyone got any advice?

Locally, Kodak's High Speed IR is about $12-15 a roll when they have it in stock, which is not that often. Illford’s SFX is not as IR sensitive, but is much cheaper. It too is getting harder to find. Rollei is now making (importing?) a IR film, but I haven’t tried it out.

I wouldn't buy mail order until colder weather comes. I'm not sure how cold it is now in the UK, but I'd wait until the weather is less than 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Also remember that except for the illford’s SFX that can be changed in heavy shade, IR must be loaded in total darkness. I’d invest in a changing bag. Also I wouldn’t recommend using the R72 with film, as its overkill. In fact the cut off point with the R72 is about at the sensitivity limit with the illford film, so it would be either unusable or require extremely long exposure times. Pleasing results can be had with a red 25a or my favorite a B+W 091 (wratten 29). Both also allow for TTL focusing in bright sunlight.

But your E-500 is as sensitive to IR as just about any other digital SLR. Before I sold mine to get an E-1, I shot quite a lot IR with it. I still use the E-300 for IR that has the same sensor, albeit with a different filter pack. Check out wrotniak.net’s Infrared Photography with the Olympus E-500.

edit: to add a film shot
sorry for lousy scan ($50 flatbed).

Notre Dame


OK, I think film's out of the question as I was thinking of taking it to Spain in the summer (desert in July/August doesn't bode well temperature-wise)

Interesting about the E-500 - I tried the remote-test but as theres no live preview I guess maybe the remote blinked and I missed it. Will have to try that when I get hold of a filter then

Thanks for the advice
 06/09/2006 07:14:19 PM · #30
Originally posted by kirsty_mcn:


Interesting about the E-500 - I tried the remote-test but as theres no live preview I guess maybe the remote blinked and I missed it. Will have to try that when I get hold of a filter then


Take the E-500 in a dark room and set on manual f5.6 for about 10 seconds. During the exposure point the remote towards the lens and move it in circles. You should see streaks of light.

Kudzu's Memphis in IR shot inspired me to go downtown and shoot today. Here's a quick edit result. The Nikon D70 really doesn't like the side of the Pyramid (banding?).

06/14/2006 11:05:42 AM · #31
I know most of you have the hoya IR filter. I was wondering what you thought about the Suntek filter.

Does anybody have it? Does it work well?
 06/14/2006 11:10:19 AM · #32


This was shot with Kodak HIE and a Hoya 72R with a Nikon N70.
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