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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Zoom Lense for EOS20D
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 05/31/2006 07:21:26 AM · #1
Any one got any advice, I am taking lots of motorcycle racing shots and am thinking of splashing out on a Canon 100-400 L IS USM.

Any one using this lense with a 20D?

Cheers.
 05/31/2006 07:26:23 AM · #2
Originally posted by DarloDS:
Any one got any advice, I am taking lots of motorcycle racing shots and am thinking of splashing out on a Canon 100-400 L IS USM.

Any one using this lense with a 20D?

Cheers.


I have owned the 100-400 for about a year and highly recommend it (I also love the push me pull you zoom). It does hunt a little in low light sometimes, especially with the 1.4 attached as well.
 05/31/2006 08:41:44 AM · #3
I doubt that IS is very useful at the shutter speeds you'll be using to stop the action in motorcycle racing. You may want to consider something without IS but with longer reach. Check out the Sigma 50-500 and the Tamron 200-500. If you want to do the kind of shots that the event photographers sell (lots of) to the riders, you'll want to get in close to fill the frame with a single bike fronting a motion-blurred background.
05/31/2006 09:19:35 AM · #4
I agree with coolhar, IS isn't going to do you a lot of good in this situation and reach definitely will. Definitely look at the lenses he suggested.
05/31/2006 10:05:40 AM · #5
Just to be a contrarian.... :-)

Even at high shutter speeds I still use IS at long focal lengths. The reason isn't so much to stop the action as it is the *keep the subject* steady within my view finder. At 400mm without IS you can bounce the subject all over the frame just by breathing. IS works wonders at steadying "my aim" so that I get the shot that I want (composed the way that I want) without the subject on some outer edge of the frame because I shook just a tiny bit.
05/31/2006 11:47:07 AM · #6
Originally posted by coolhar:
I doubt that IS is very useful at the shutter speeds you'll be using to stop the action in motorcycle racing. You may want to consider something without IS but with longer reach. Check out the Sigma 50-500 and the Tamron 200-500. If you want to do the kind of shots that the event photographers sell (lots of) to the riders, you'll want to get in close to fill the frame with a single bike fronting a motion-blurred background.


If you want the motion-blurred background, you would probably want to shoot at 1/200. Using a 400mm lens would make it a bit difficult to get the rider sharp. I would have to say that, in this situation, IS would definitely help, especially in mode 2.
 05/31/2006 11:49:47 AM · #7
Originally posted by AJAger:
Originally posted by coolhar:
I doubt that IS is very useful at the shutter speeds you'll be using to stop the action in motorcycle racing. You may want to consider something without IS but with longer reach. Check out the Sigma 50-500 and the Tamron 200-500. If you want to do the kind of shots that the event photographers sell (lots of) to the riders, you'll want to get in close to fill the frame with a single bike fronting a motion-blurred background.


If you want the motion-blurred background, you would probably want to shoot at 1/200. Using a 400mm lens would make it a bit difficult to get the rider sharp. I would have to say that, in this situation, IS would definitely help, especially in mode 2.


Yup, people often forget Mode 2, Motion Panning is greatly helped by IS, also I agree with dwterry when it comes to helping the composition of an image. At 400mm unless you are using a tripod the imgae is moving around quite a bit and composition is kinda hit and miss.

Message edited by author 2006-05-31 11:50:42.
 05/31/2006 12:05:49 PM · #8
I'm a Nikon shooter and recently got the 70-200mm VR 2.8...Nikon version of the same Canon IS lens.

It's stunning how great the VR(IS)is and as the Doc said for motion panning and on shots that have some motion blur the IS will blow your mind. The glass is superb and as the guy at B&H mentioned...I will have a better time shooting at higher ISO'sdue to the extra contrast pop the glass offers. He was right.
 05/31/2006 02:05:51 PM · #9
Originally posted by AJAger:
If you want the motion-blurred background, you would probably want to shoot at 1/200. Using a 400mm lens would make it a bit difficult to get the rider sharp. I would have to say that, in this situation, IS would definitely help, especially in mode 2.
I have used my Tamron 200-500 and my 300 f4 on my 20D to shoot motorcycle racing, always in natural daylight. My experience has been that you can't make a blanket statement defining what shutter speed will get you a motion-blurred background. It depends too much on the situation, i.e. distances from camera to subject, and from subject to background. I have gotten some motion blur as fast as 1/800. My favorite shot is wheels blurred, bike & rider sharp and motionless, background blurred. I can usually get this with 1/400 or 1/500 assuming an average to bright sunny day. But it varies an awful lot from one shoot to the next. Panning technique to keep the frame on the subject takes practice but can be learned. Having a camera of 8 mp or more gives you margin to crop if you are having a hard time keeping the subject centered. I have never seen any photographer, pro or amatuer, use a monopod or tripod at motorcycle races. IMO, practice and experience are more beneficial than stabilization for this type of shooting. All the photogs here who own stabilized lenses seem to think it helps. Maybe it does make it easier but my opinion is still that it is not necessary.
05/31/2006 02:55:39 PM · #10
Originally posted by coolhar:
Originally posted by AJAger:
If you want the motion-blurred background, you would probably want to shoot at 1/200. Using a 400mm lens would make it a bit difficult to get the rider sharp. I would have to say that, in this situation, IS would definitely help, especially in mode 2.
I have used my Tamron 200-500 and my 300 f4 on my 20D to shoot motorcycle racing, always in natural daylight. My experience has been that you can't make a blanket statement defining what shutter speed will get you a motion-blurred background. It depends too much on the situation, i.e. distances from camera to subject, and from subject to background. I have gotten some motion blur as fast as 1/800. My favorite shot is wheels blurred, bike & rider sharp and motionless, background blurred. I can usually get this with 1/400 or 1/500 assuming an average to bright sunny day. But it varies an awful lot from one shoot to the next. Panning technique to keep the frame on the subject takes practice but can be learned. Having a camera of 8 mp or more gives you margin to crop if you are having a hard time keeping the subject centered. I have never seen any photographer, pro or amatuer, use a monopod or tripod at motorcycle races. IMO, practice and experience are more beneficial than stabilization for this type of shooting. All the photogs here who own stabilized lenses seem to think it helps. Maybe it does make it easier but my opinion is still that it is not necessary.


The figure I quoted (1/200) was as an example, not a fixed value (as I'm sure you knew). What the hell were you shooting to get motion blur at 1/800 ? Must have been pretty quick. IS is not essential, but certainly very helpful. Perhaps you should try an IS lens, just to see what all the fuss is about :)
 05/31/2006 03:29:46 PM · #11
Originally posted by AJAger:
The figure I quoted (1/200) was as an example, not a fixed value (as I'm sure you knew). What the hell were you shooting to get motion blur at 1/800 ? Must have been pretty quick. IS is not essential, but certainly very helpful. Perhaps you should try an IS lens, just to see what all the fuss is about :)
That 1/800 was motorcycles at the end of a long straight and close up against a background of a wall of stacked tires, bg was blured ok but the wheels were stopped so it looked sort of "parked". I have shot with IS in prosumer cameras so I have at a little experience with the technology. It works wonders in low light for static subjects. But I feel that fast aperture lenses and usable high ISO settings make it less necessary.
05/31/2006 03:34:52 PM · #12
just putting in my 2 cents, but sigma makes a kick ass 120-300f/2.8
and if you hook up a 1.4 converter to that you get a 168-420.. and if you factor in the crop factor... 268.8 -672..

personally, im saving up for that very lens, its quick sharp, and not as big as the 100-400..

-Dan
 05/31/2006 05:13:19 PM · #13
Not going to get into the IS or not IS thing, but did want to give some advice if you do decide to go with the IS. Make sure that you invest in some spare batteries! A day of shooting with the IS on will dramatically shorten your battery life.

Message edited by author 2006-05-31 17:13:46.
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