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04/02/2006 01:10:06 AM · #1 |
check this out
I found this info on the internet the other day. According to this guys calculations my camera starts losing its resolving power at f/16 due to Diffraction. To me it sounds like difraction is an everyday part of life with a digital photographer but I do see another reason to go FF beside the extra resolution availible vs crop factored DSLR's. Would anyone like to expound on the above and clarify?
Also, I am considring getting a light meter. Specifically the Sekonic 358. My question is how do you use it?..lol I see measuring the light falling on the subject, but what about backlit scenario's? And how much more acurate are the meters than a DSLR's internal meterimg system?
d
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04/02/2006 03:21:01 AM · #2 |
| Interesting article. Thanks for sharing. |
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04/02/2006 11:37:18 AM · #3 |
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04/02/2006 12:03:56 PM · #4 |
as far as a light meter, are you planning on using strobes? That's really the only situation where one is needed IMO.
I didn't read the article, because I don't see a point...you can print a decent 20x30 with your camera -- how often will you be doing that anyway? So anyway, if your camera doesn't meet your needs, then by all means upgrade...I think you should be looking at lenses if you're serious before you look at another camera body...A 1dsmkII isn't going to make a bit of difference with your current selection.
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04/02/2006 12:08:43 PM · #5 |
I've seen that article before, and it is an excellent discussion of difraction effects. Does it indicate there's an inherent advantage to FF? No, in my opinion. Smaller apertures are used to get greater DoF, but a FF cam will typically require a slightly smaller aperture to get the same DoF. So what's gained is again lost. The larger pixel size of the FF cams is also only a function of the current market. There's every probability that a 20+Mpx FF cam will be produced (probably relatively soon). For this future camera, the situation will be somewhere between the D2X and the 20D/350D.
This effect is why small-sensor cams (like the G6 used in the example) have maximum f-stop settings of about f/8 or f/11 at most. Anything above that will get pretty soft.
Keep in mind that it's not entirely bad to have the sensor resolution be greater than the resolution of the other system components. Designing a system that way intentionally is referred to as "oversampling", and just like in audio, it has its benefits. In photography, the benefits are no edge jaggies, no moire, and smoother tonal gradation. The cost is the much greater amount of data to be handled. The market will not accept an oversampled camera, however. Photographers will always attempt to extract the maximum amount of detail the system is capable of, which results pressure on designers to move in the opposite direction. The 5D is an example of this, with its less agressive anti-alias filter.
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04/02/2006 12:19:49 PM · #6 |
Dustin,
I think the most important point of the article is to help us understand that stopping the lens down to the smallest aperture doesn't always give you the sharpest image. But, as the article noted, "other factors such as focus accuracy, motion blur and imperfect lenses are likely to be more significant."
On the light meter issue, I agree with Dave: You don't need one unless you are using strobes. The built-in light meters in most digital cameras work very well--and then you can check the histogram to make sure. I have a Sekonic L-508 which I use with the camera on the right. I used it once with the camera on the left and decided it was not worth it.
--DanW |
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04/02/2006 12:28:33 PM · #7 |
Thanks for your thoughts on this issue. Im not looking to upgrade too soon..Bills to pay and lenses and lighting to buy! Just wanted some opinions on the subject. Thanks!
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