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11/04/2005 02:05:19 AM · #1 |
Hey everyone...
I have read over many threads with people suggesting pocketwizards. I will be purchasing a 20d as well as three Alien Bee's 1600's. I am thinking of going with the Sekonic L-358 flash meter.
What do I need to buy as far as Pocketwizards go to be as wireless as possible. I am new to strobes, been using hotlights. I don't want to forget anything.
Thanks in advance!
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11/04/2005 02:17:38 AM · #2 |
well, to be as wireless as possible, you need to get one receiver for each light (so 3), and 1 transmitter for the camera. If you won't be using it in crowded venues (arenas, stadiums, for sporting events), the Pocketwizard Plus kit should suffice. It only has 4 channels, and basically you turn them all on, connect them to the lights, set them to the same channel, and put the transmitter on the hotshoe of your camera and shoot. Your Sekonic also needs to be set to the same channel, and when you use the wireless flash mode, it will trigger the lights.
You can also opt to get a Multimax unit or two instead of one of those receivers. They are transceivers, and work with the Plus units, and also function as transmitters OR receivers.
The cabling for the PW to a strobe should come with the PW. You'll need 2 AA batteries per, and expect them to last a while (I still havent changed mine and I've had em months now, left em on by accident sometimes).
A Plus kit (1 receiver, 1 transmitter) is cheaper than individual purchase, so get that, and 2 more receivers (or Multimax units)
If you need to go into more detail with MultiMax units, and other questions, feel free to ask.
Enjoy those PW, they're fun. I have a plus kit, 1 extra receiver, and 1 Multimax, plus some drive cables. I trigger remote cameras, and strobes. I've gone as far as a football field away and lit 2 flash units.
Max |
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11/04/2005 06:30:50 AM · #3 |
I can't answer on the wizzards, but a comment on the AB's. Wont 1600's be a bit powerfull for most portrait work? They have an effective 640ws light output. Sure you can drossel them, but I have read in some forums that the output is still too much sometimes. You may be better to mix 400, 800 & 1600 or something which will also save some money. A 1600 hair light might be overkill.
Maybe someone more experienced can answer this. |
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11/04/2005 07:43:37 AM · #4 |
Originally posted by aKiwi:
Wont 1600's be a bit powerfull for most portrait work? |
Thank you, I will ask this question in another thread :)
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11/04/2005 07:48:59 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by PShizzy:
Enjoy those PW, they're fun. I have a plus kit, 1 extra receiver, and 1 Multimax, plus some drive cables. I trigger remote cameras, and strobes. I've gone as far as a football field away and lit 2 flash units.
Max |
Max, thank you SO much. My head is spinning from all the research I've done. We are selling our house which equals money for lots of new toys...LOL My husband is so good to me.
Your post was VERY helpful. Now, about the MultiMax's. What are their primary advantages over the regular receivers? I just don't want to be kicking myself later for not getting what I need. I will learn strobes pretty quickly, I'm sure, but for now they are so different than the hotlights..LOL
I am thinking 1 multimax and 3 regular receivers? Do I need any other cords or anything for it to work with a Canon 20d?
Message edited by author 2005-11-04 08:06:46.
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11/04/2005 09:34:10 AM · #6 |
Multimax units offer LOTS of extras.
You can set a trigger delay (why, I dunno).
You can set a relay (since it's a tranceiver). Basically you send a signal to the unit, it will receive the signal, then go to transmit mode and transmit a signal on another channel
You can use it as an intervalometer, which lets you do interesting time lapse stuff.
You can manually work it to set a second curtain sync.
On channels 17-32, there are Quad Zones. This is difficult to explain, but here goes..
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Say I shoot Basketball, and want different looks for my game. I can set up 4 lights to 2 seperate zone, ch 17A and 17B. One is for near court, one for far court. Now I can set my Multimax as a transmitter to send signal to 17A, 17B or 17AB. Why? Well, say I want a dark background for my nearcourt shots? I can easily (press one button), set to send to 17A only, and trigger only the near court lights. Then when players are far, I can reverse this, by sending to 17B only. If I want an evenly lit court, I just leave it to 17AB.
Even further, I can set up 2 more lights to 17C, say to the farcourt, with a tint (red for example). I can then choose to shoot 17AC, which lights my near court normally, and the farcourt will shoot only the red tinted lights, but not the normal far court lights.
How often will anyone do this? Well, if I get 8 lights, I plan on it just because I can.
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As a tranceiver, what's best about that is that if you accidentally forget a transmitter you can use the Max as one instead. Or split it up to have 2 shooters using 1 set of strobes (2 receivers, 2 transmitters) or split them to use 2 sets of strobes.
I will admit this though: I rarely use the Multimax units to their full potential. In fact, the best feature so far, besides it's being a tranceiver, is that it has an LCD screen, so you know when the battery is going to die.
With Plus units, you can still set off strobes, still set off remote cameras, and do a lot more. They play well with MultiMax units, so I don't mind mixing them up.
If money isn't an issue, go with the Multimax, full well knowing you've bought into the hands down best tranceiver unit on the market. You'll pay double what you pay for Plus units, but it may be worth it.
If you have any more specific questions, post them.
One last caveat: If you buy the Multimax units, make sure to carry both the quick guide and instruction manual with you at all times. Trust me, there's so much to these little units to know.
Max |
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