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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> CCD cleaning experience or how to go mad
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Showing posts 26 - 33 of 33, (reverse)
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02/02/2006 02:02:17 PM · #26
I second that.
The Visible Dust brushes are great. No danger of damaging anything and they really work.
Those guys got a brilliant concept.
02/02/2006 02:24:00 PM · #27
Originally posted by DrAchoo:

Wait, remind me again what the cleaning agent is officially in the Copperhill method. I have a made at home kit of rubber spatula, Kimwipes and 70% rubbing alcohol. I wonder if the 30% water is what may be giving me a bit of a time getting it to dry without leaving streaks.


Ack! Rubbing alcohol, or even 99% 2-propanol, which is the much drier "industrial" version, contains WAY too much dissolved solids, not to mention the water that is impossible to get rid of with 2-propanol. Methanol is the solvent of choice. If you don't buy eclipse, purchase it from a chemical supply house, where you can get a half-liter for about $30 US. You can't just buy any grade of methanol either, you need a laboratory grade product that is certified to contain less than 5ppm residue after evaporation. Try VWR scientific, or Baxter. Either will have it.
That said, yes, eclipse is expensive, but for the amount you use, the cost per cleaning is very small. Who really needs a 500cc bottle of methanol around the house anyway? Buy the eclipse.
02/02/2006 02:38:44 PM · #28
You know I have been wanting to buy a Sensor Brush for over a year but just have not needed it. I also use the Giotto Rocket Blower on a regular basis and it seems to keep the inside of the body clean.

I change lenses often in the field (I do quite a bit of nature photography) but I'm careful. I keep the camera body opening facing down and have the lens I'm mounting ready to go. I take one off and put the other on immediately. I then blow out the one I took off and cap it before putting it in my pack. I also try to do this out of the wind as much as possible.

Now this is all not to say I do not get spots. I do. But I just give the mirror and sensor a good blow that night and they seem to go away.

edit: my sp sucks

Message edited by author 2006-02-02 14:41:45.
02/02/2006 03:08:40 PM · #29
Originally posted by bluenova:

Originally posted by ursula:

They again cleaned it (in less than 20 minutes) without charge, and showed me how to change lenses carefully and told me not to zoom into the wind if I can help it.

How did they tell you to change lenses out of interest? I have 3 spots on my sensor at the moment, and am wondering whats the best way to change lenses to reduce the risk of getting dust inside.


Like the others have said, I stage my gear so I can move pretty quickly. The other thing I do is turn the camera power off. I picked up somewhere that with the power on, the sensor is like a dust magnet. I don't know if it's true or not, but so far I've had pretty good luck. (Knock wood)
02/02/2006 03:38:54 PM · #30
The sensor holds a charge, which attracts dust, for several minuets, flicking it off and opening it within seconds makes some but not much difference, it still will pull dust to it.
02/02/2006 03:55:06 PM · #31
Originally posted by BrennanOB:

The sensor holds a charge, which attracts dust, for several minuets, flicking it off and opening it within seconds makes some but not much difference, it still will pull dust to it.

That's good to know. Thanks!
02/02/2006 04:37:28 PM · #32
Too bad we can't all be so lucky as to have a camera body for each of our lens :). We can dream at least, right!?
02/02/2006 05:55:23 PM · #33
Use a QTip and a vacuum cleaner.
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