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10/09/2005 10:39:06 AM · #1 |
I had a bowl of apples sitting by my kitchen windown and I grabbed the camera to try to hone my skills in editing. Now, I have a bad habit of centering things and wondering if this was a bit better off centering.
the original
Edited version

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10/09/2005 10:58:05 AM · #2 |
Hi. Can you post camera information for this please? Thanks. I wonder if you are shooting at F6 or narrower on this. There seems to be focus and a general lack of detail.
Please remember that all the big zoom cameras can only handle going to about F5.0 before losing a significant amount of fineness in the detail. This is a result of what is called Diffraction limitation if you want to read up more about it.
It is also possible that you have shot this with your in-camera sharpening turned down a lot, at which point you need to put some USM on it.
Yes I do realize that it is possible you didn't really worry about the focus on the picture because you had a different purpose in mind, but I thought it would be helpful information. Another thing to mention is that the apples are fairly reflective and sometimes autofocus is thrown off by that.
As far as your composition is concerned, it's not too bad, I would like to see a little wider on the sides myself, mostly for thirds on the reflections and the dimple on the apple. On the other hand, my sister who has taken art class and knows a lot more about composition than I says she likes the composition as is because of the use of light and dark in opposite areas.
I wonder if you had taken the apples out of the collander if you could have had a different sort of picture? |
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10/09/2005 11:01:20 AM · #3 |
Removed.
Message edited by author 2005-10-09 11:18:17. |
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10/09/2005 11:11:31 AM · #4 |
Exposure 1/20
F number 7.1
Max aperture f/3.2
ISO 200
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10/09/2005 12:03:02 PM · #5 |
Ok, Definitely a few things you could do differently with this shot. For starters, if your shutter speed is 1/20, your camera shouldn't have been using F7.1. Max aperture refers you your camera specifications, not current aperture. The F number is your aperture. My S2 starts to lose fine detail at around f4.5 or f5.0 Your camera will as well, perhaps even more so due to the even smaller pixels. I wish camera manufacturers would get off this idea and make some cameras that have slightly bigger sensors and stick with reasonable pixel numbers. My camera would be 2x better if it was an 8x with 4.0mp. Better pictures from the ground up.
You definitely could benefit from a reshoot.
Lose the collander, shoot the apples with more light. Throw some light diffusion on your window or use some bounced light to decrease the light variance from highlight to shadow.
Set your camera to AV and shoot as wide as possible, I usually like f3.5-f4.0 on my camera.
And for goodness' sake, when you can control your light, please please shoot in ISO 50 or 100. Grab a nice big peice of white cardboard or reflective plastic, even a sheet of plastic covered with aluminum foil (non-shiny side out) will do a decent job of bouncing light back in to the scene. On the kitchen theme, not having many things available, I'd probably go with the biggest cereal box I could find, open it up and tape some thing to straighten the folds and give it rigidity. Then, keeping it as flat as possible, tape some aluminum foil to it trying your best not to get any wrinkles. You can keep it hanging around between your fridge and whatever is next to it to keep it straight for next time too.
The picture may be suffering from motion blur as well. I can't say for sure, but it is soft. At 1/20th at wide open, you will still notice motion blur unless you are REALLY steady. When you said that your max aperture was 3.2, that tells me that you were zoomed in a bit, and I don't know how much (the Z6 has an Max aperture range of 2.8-4.5). If you were zoomed in significantly, you could possibly increase camera shake. Anti-Shake or not.
The rule of thumb without anti-shake is 1/focal length. Your lens has a focal range of 36-420mm. That means that at 420mm (fully zoomed in), you will need to have a shutter speed around 1/400th to keep hand-shake from making your picture lose sharpness. at 36mm, you will need around 1/40th. Shaky hands or carelessness OR shooting using the LCD instead of the viewfinder will change those numbers quite a bit. Antishake helps, but is not perfect.
If you were shooting about double your native focal length, say perhaps 80mm, you would need to keep the camera relatively still when shooting at 1/80th, and this would give you a picture quite free of camera-shake. With AS on, you would likely be able to get away with 2 stops down from that, or about 1/30. That having been said, this is running the very limit of what that camera can do, so it is also very likely that it will take about 3 shots before you get one that gets it right. And hold your breath! Shooting at 35mm at 1/30th is generally considered risky, even with anti-shake. Shooting 80mm at 1/30th is ok according to the optimistic manual, but is unlikely to give you good consistent results in the real world.
Still life shots are often taken with tripods. In this case, switch to 2 second autotimer and turn your anti-shake off. You should get nice results like that.
I hope it helps. I'm not one who is really good with his camera yet, but I have a bit of experience shooting with a similar camera to yours.
I NEVER shoot anything I care about at an aperture beyond 5.0 anymore. If I need more DOF, I have to find a different way. If it is too bright, I will be getting a polarizer and some ND filters. You might consider the same. |
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10/09/2005 01:07:48 PM · #6 |
Here's the re-shoot of the apples any better?

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10/09/2005 10:10:15 PM · #7 |
Much, much better. The light makes all the difference.
Please don't forget to post all the shooting information, particularly what the light sources were.
It still looks like you have a softness issue. I can't tell if its in ISO or bad diffraction softness. Try shooting this at F3.5 or F4 if you haven't already. Better yet, just for yourself, shoot on a range of apertures.
Now see what element or elements you can place on a third. This composition is a lot better, but still has room to grow.
Try placing some white paper underneath and see how that works.
Want an example of truly stunning composition and lighting?
Woah. |
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10/09/2005 10:22:35 PM · #8 |
lighting was the light from my kitchen window, halogen lights under the cabinet, and a diffused flash
1/4, iso 100, f/4.0
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10/11/2005 11:41:56 AM · #9 |
Yeah, ok, thanks. I seem to be the only one commenting on this photo and it makes me a bit nervous because either that means nobody else is paying attention and I could be very wrong on these things, or I'm getting things right.
Please don't take this as me being preachy about photography. I hope I'm giving good advice here. If it's too much, let me know. If you find this useful, also let me know. thanks.
OK. now on to your picture.
The composition is indeed better, although I'm still feeling it's really soft. I am trying to figure out why the shutter speed is so slow though with three light sources. To be honest, it is still pretty ho hum. It looks like you have two apples as your subject and neither of them is really placed well. You might consider making a single apple your subject and using other apples as highlights, like in the blueberries picture.
Regarding the lighting, there are 2 aspects to lighting: How much your camera is gathering and how much is bouncing off the subject.
I can only guess, but I think that you have zoomed in quite a bit on those apples. This impairs the ability of your camera to take in light. The farther away you are from the subject, the less light from that subject will be able to get into your camera. This means that you are better off shooting wide (possibly needing to use the macro function of your camera) and moving right in on the subject. You might want to consider moving the camera to a better location, preferably one that is closer to the subject. If you are having a problem with positioning the camera so it is using the light to the right advantage, this is where the flip and twist screen comes in handy. If you really want to shoot in a particular place and can't see the flip screen, try the bean bag method mentioned below and use self-timer of 10 seconds and use 5 of those to position the camera upside down. It takes the same picture, you just need to rotate 180 degrees.
The other aspect of lighting comes from how much is bouncing off your subject. From what you have said, there is plenty. Usually, the more diffuse the better, although highlights and catchlights do have their place and these come from direct light sources.
Regarding the softness, a better solution to hand holding could also be to find some way of supporting the camera on something. This will allow you to control lighting a bit more and use longer shutter speeds, while keeping your picture sharp.
Also, feel free to experiment with F stops. F4.0 is a general rule of thumb for that lens, but f2.8 and 3.2 are usually not too bad. The extremes of a lens are usually where it is weakest. Zoomed all the way in or out and aperture settings at the limit of what it is able to do are included. F2.8 and 3.2 are likely to suffer from image quality because of the quality of the glass in the lens. Above F4 to F8.0 or whatever is max on the Z6 has quality issues because of a totally different reason. Anything above F5 should be avoided at all cost for this reason, but the lens itself is pretty decent, so wider apertures are still pretty much fair game. The wider the aperture, the more light and the faster the shutter.
Again on the kitchen theme, make a bean bag. Grab a plastic bag, but a couple of handfuls of beans in it. Remove most of the air and seal it up reasonably well so it can be molded a bit. Then place your camera on the bean bag and you have a makeshift mini-tripod. You can place the camera on this bean bag like you would on a tripod. Use the self-timer set at 2-4 seconds or whatever you are comfortable with to make sure you can press the shutter, and let go of the camera so it will not fall and not be touching it for at least 1 second before the exposure. You may also want to experiment with turning off the AntiShake for this. Mounted shots often do not benefit from anti-shake and many turn it off when not hand-holding.
A lot of people have bean bags that they take with them instead of a minitripod.
Finally on the issue of softness, I have a simple question. Did the focusing box change to green when your camera locked settings before taking the picture? Your camera will usually have a way of letting you know when it is having difficulties with focusing on an object because of low light or a reflective surface. I had a lot of difficulty with that when I was shooting my beverages challenge which contained a scorpion inside a glass, so I found another way to make the focus happen. I placed some keys in the same plane and focused on them. The camera found it quite easy to lock focus on the keys and then I moved the camera to recompose the picture. You may need to make use of this technique with your apples. I don't really know. They are pretty reflective. My camera had a heck of a time focusing on an really shiny orange too.
That's all! |
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