Underexposed by a stop at least. Common problem, especially with canon's e-ttl and wedding dresses. You will also get underexposed pics in teh snow for the same reason. You can use FEC with flash or regular exposure comp without to fix it.
the shadow is ugly - this is why they make flash brackets - so when you rotate to the portrait orientation you keep the flash above the lens and the shodows fall behind and below the subject.
Congrats on getting a flash...now the fun begins!
In e-TTL, you cna shoot auto, P, A T, or M.
In P mode, the flash is assumed to be the ONLY light -the subject should be properly exposed and hte BG will go dark.
In T or A modes, the exposure is set for the ambient light, and the flash acts as fill - beware, as in Av mode, the Tv value may go as low as 30 seconds - you WILL get camera shake!!
M mode - you set the exposure you want, and the flash tries to light it correctly.
What works for me most of the time is to use M and set the exposre to the correct one, and then change it to underexpose by about 2 stops. The flash works mainly like strong fill this way. The BG is visible, but subdued, great for cluttered BGs. I also use a LightShpere II most of the time and try to avoid direct flash.
For the wedding dress issue...I opted for a Metz flash that has a great Auto mode, and I don't use e-ttl. I can shoot pretty muck like i had no flash - meter, lock for focus and exposre, recompose and shoot and it all comes out great. When using e-ttl if you do it this way the exposure will be off 90% of the time. You have to lock exposre and focus sepertely - a real PITA to me, but with practive i guess it can come naturally. I am SOO used to the other method it drives me nuts to have to lock exposure with teh * button every time.
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