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07/27/2005 05:25:59 PM · #1 |
I have a photo shoot on Friday where I am shooting the insides of some pretty fancy houses, I was wondering if anyone had some tips or some websites that the would like to share with me...Thanks!
Matt
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07/27/2005 05:28:22 PM · #2 |
| Widest Wide Angle lens you can afford...Remember that on a 1.5x crop camera wide angle lenses are not so wide. Shoot available light with a tripod and remote release cable. |
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07/27/2005 05:57:43 PM · #3 |
Make sure all curtains are open to allow maximum light in.
Turn on all available lights.
Use a tripod, remote release would probably be good, but with the company that I shot for, we never used one.
Photograph from the ceiling line down, do not get much of the ceiling in the shot if you can help it. (Occasionally, architectural details will override this.)
Look for dramatic shots such as looking down from an overhead walkway or stairway.
Eyeball the shot really well to make sure there's nothing laying around that would detract from the shots. (Usually only a big concern if someone is living in the house.) |
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07/27/2005 06:00:40 PM · #4 |
go for some fancy angles, even try shooting some shots with the camera on the floor for a different perspective. careful not to underexpose items inside due to light coming in from windows. spot meter if you can on an item not so bright.
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07/27/2005 06:02:20 PM · #5 |
If there are any existing lights try turning them on, eg: Ceiling fan, Chandelier, ect.
Use a larger F-Stop to get the sparkle out of the filaments.
Definately use a wide-angle lens
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07/27/2005 06:03:14 PM · #6 |
Use RAW or be very careful about white balance.
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07/27/2005 06:04:12 PM · #7 |
here is the best adivice i can give you, if you have CS2, use the "merge to HDR" funtion
shoot raw
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07/27/2005 07:07:00 PM · #8 |
I highly recommend you read what graphicfunk has to say here.
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07/27/2005 07:46:09 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by Fetor:
here is the best adivice i can give you, if you have CS2, use the "merge to HDR" funtion
shoot raw |
Good advise.. youll get some greate shots with merge to HDR |
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07/27/2005 09:02:37 PM · #10 |
Be extremely careful about convergence of verticals in WA interiors. Either orient the camera to true vertical so there is no convergence, or orient it enough off vertical that the convergence seems intentional. If you are froced to use convergence, be sure that the CENTER of your image is set at a true vertical, so the convergence is bilaterally symmetrical. What almost always looks horrible is for one side of the shot to be vertical and the other side wildly off-vertical.
As a rule, "divergence" (camera pointed down from a higher angle) looks better in interiors than "convergence" (camera pointed up).
Depending on how wide a lens you have and how large the images will be reporduced, it's possible to set the camera up in portrait orientation with the camera aligned to true vertical then to crop out excess foreground/ceiling to generate a horizontal composition. This effectively turns a very wide angle lens into a shift lens. But it has to be really wide. My 10-22mm does this very well at 10mm.
The problem is, virtually all extreme WA lenses for digital cameras show significant barrel distortion at the edges. There is software that can correct this for you; one of the best is Richard Rosenmann's Lens Corrector pro.
The advice to have "allt he windows wide open" is not always the best solution; this can introduce both glare and contrast problems. It's often better to work with longer exposures and softer, less intense light.
Be aprticularly aware of how if you are standing AT a window, the objects closest to the camera are MUCH brighter than those further away. With proper exposure, this can be corrected with a gradient overlay in post production, but it's better to avoid the problem by limiting or eliminating the window light that is causing it.
Natural light interiors are soem of the most difficult things to shoot that there are, but when done properly they can be absolutely beautiful. This was our niche in arvhiectural photography; we were "the guys that don't use strobes" and it served us well.
Robt.
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07/27/2005 10:57:08 PM · #11 |
Here's my advice: save the best one for the "Affluence" challenge. ;-)
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07/27/2005 11:35:56 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by bear_music:
The problem is, virtually all extreme WA lenses for digital cameras show significant barrel distortion at the edges. There is software that can correct this for you; one of the best is Richard Rosenmann's Lens Corrector pro. |
Wow, that's a bit pricey!
I was just going to look for something to fix barrel distortions and ran across this, but for my needs, I can't justify the cost of the full version. If I was professional, I could see that, but just for putzin' around....
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07/27/2005 11:40:55 PM · #13 |
Here's a free lens correcting plugin, but I haven't had time to test it much.
//epaperpress.com/ptlens/ |
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07/28/2005 08:48:44 AM · #14 |
Thanks for the tip. Looks promising if I can figure out how to control it.
Thanks again! |
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07/28/2005 01:21:06 PM · #15 |
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