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04/28/2003 08:34:36 PM · #1 |
| i have an f707 and you can only select iso 100-400 which doesnt make sense to me, when under nightshot mode it goes all the way to 2500iso. why cant you select up to that? i know there is a lot of noise, but sometimes i need to use that fast of iso. i was wondering if there was anything i could do, maybe take it apart or anything to get it able to use the higher iso speeds... anyone ever taken your f707/717 apart? im afraid that if i do that everything would fall apart or i would mess up something (ccd, lens, etc..). but its really frustrating only to be able to use 100-400. any ideas? |
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04/28/2003 08:46:30 PM · #2 |
I could be wrong, but I think the ISO selection would be built into the firmware, and not have anything to do with hardware. The gain of the CCD is electronical, and you would definitely have to alter the firmware to program any change in the normal operating system into the buttons. I really don't think what you want to do is possible (except by Sony), and I wouldn't recommend taking apart your camera.
Message edited by author 2003-04-28 20:47:02.
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04/28/2003 10:25:15 PM · #3 |
I think in night shot mode it does more than just push the iso to 2500. Please don't take it apart. Ask Sony online first.
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04/28/2003 10:50:56 PM · #4 |
When you use nightshot it removes the IR light filter from the camera and uses both IR and visible ambient light. The IR light is emitted from the camera, and therefore (I assume) the sensor's sensitivity needs to be very high to pick up the infrared part of the spectrum in any usable form. Normally even daytime infrared exposures need to be very long as the light source is weak. It's simply a CCD sensitivity amplification (firmware adjustment as Maverick said), so taking it apart will accomplish nothing...on my F717 the ISO 800 is very noisy and is really only suitable if there's no other exposure option.
Message edited by author 2003-04-28 22:53:24. |
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05/02/2003 02:22:13 PM · #5 |
| yea thats what i figured... thanks for the help. i wonder if you could swap the firmware somehow.. jk lol |
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05/02/2003 02:45:38 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by a1leyez0nm3:
yea thats what i figured... thanks for the help. i wonder if you could swap the firmware somehow.. jk lol |
i wouldn't worry about it too much...i don't think i'll get too much use out of the ISO 800 anyways. your 100-400 range is plenty. |
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05/03/2003 08:38:41 AM · #7 |
setting your exposure compensation to -1 is the same as doubling your ISO. setting it to -2 is the same as quadrupling your ISO. you'll have to readjust levels in photoshop and it will be hella noisy, but you'll get that shutter speed you desire :) ..
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05/03/2003 10:15:04 AM · #8 |
Is that really what happens? I just tried it with 800 ISO. I aimed at the same spot with 0 compensation and with -2. With 0, the exposure was f2.8, 1/250. With -2, it was f2.8, 1/1000. The -2 underexposed it, but did it really boost it to 3200 ISO? The noise levels don't seem that bad. Still, that'd be a useful tool in certain situations.
(also)
Trying it with ISO 50 and 100 resulted in the same thing, but without any noticeable gain in noise.
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
setting your exposure compensation to -1 is the same as doubling your ISO. setting it to -2 is the same as quadrupling your ISO. you'll have to readjust levels in photoshop and it will be hella noisy, but you'll get that shutter speed you desire :) .. |
Message edited by author 2003-05-03 10:21:30.
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05/03/2003 12:29:00 PM · #9 |
What you're effectively doing when you set your camera to deeply underexpose, and then take the images into an image editing program to raise the levels back to normal, is having the computer program do what the camera's sensor can't: amplify the signal to a level that's the equivalent of a given ISO.
It's not the setting of -2 that acts as the iso equivalent, it's the level adjustment in photoshop. What you're doing when you drop the exposure compensation is giving the image the 'headroom' it needs to be pumped up in the image editor, while reaping the benefits of faster shutter spped (or smaller aperature, depending on what you're after).
What you didn't say is whether or not your did the important final step - which is taking your pics into an image editor and raising the levels up to normal. If you did and didnt see much more noise, then great! If you haven't yet, that's when you might see the noise - because, exactly like using a higher sensivity camera sensor, using photoshop to boost the signal will also increase the noise.
And yes, it can be very useful shooting in darker conditions. I did some pretty decent aquarium pics that way in San Diego, last year.
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05/03/2003 12:36:00 PM · #10 |
Ah, I didn't notice the part about necessary adjustments in an image editor = P
Thanks, that makes sense now
Just edited them, the 800 ISO does have a LOT more noise now, the 50 and 100 ISO shots aren't bad though
Message edited by author 2003-05-03 12:49:44.
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05/03/2003 08:56:44 PM · #11 |
| To put it more simply, the EV adjustment allows you to compensate F-stop values. The ability to adjust EV +/-2 stops means exactly that...if you raise the EV it will adjust the shutter speed in shutter priority mode, or adjust the aperture in aperture priority mode in order to compensate. It doesn't adjust the sensitivity of the sensor. |
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05/04/2003 03:32:19 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
setting your exposure compensation to -1 is the same as doubling your ISO. setting it to -2 is the same as quadrupling your ISO. you'll have to readjust levels in photoshop and it will be hella noisy, but you'll get that shutter speed you desire :) .. |
not always true.. because when you get parts that are totally black or too dark they dont just pop back up in photoshop. if you dont capture enough light by underexposing too much you cant just photoshop it back. its just going to have a bunch of spots and be void of detail. it doesnt work that way. ill try to post an example. the ISO level is turning up the sensitivity of the ccd. like turning up the gain on an amp sorta. photoshopping is just strethching out the levels in photoshop, and if you didnt get enough light in some areas, it just wont work. |
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05/04/2003 09:57:36 AM · #13 |
oh, absolutely. but you would be amazed at how well it does work :).
Originally posted by a1leyez0nm3:
not always true.. because when you get parts that are totally black or too dark they dont just pop back up in photoshop. if you dont capture enough light by underexposing too much you cant just photoshop it back. its just going to have a bunch of spots and be void of detail. it doesnt work that way. ill try to post an example. the ISO level is turning up the sensitivity of the ccd. like turning up the gain on an amp sorta. photoshopping is just strethching out the levels in photoshop, and if you didnt get enough light in some areas, it just wont work. |
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