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05/10/2005 05:46:43 PM · #1 |
I have an Epson 3100Z digital now. Previously worked with a Minolta 8000i film SLR.
The Epson is the basic digital with on board flash & no lenses.
Anyway - I am getting closer to getting the DSLR I am craving (selling whatever I can find around my house for my camera fund).
1. What things do I need to be aware of when switching to a DSLR?
2. Do I need to take photos differently?
3. Is a DSLR close to film in regard to settings?
4. Will I be able to take photos directly off the camera and load to a website with reasonable quality without photo shopping? Just the JPG and not RAW? I know a little about RAW but not much.
Any other tips or hints to get good photos with this higher end camera?
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05/10/2005 05:53:50 PM · #2 |
1: The Camera body is ONLY the beginning, you'll spend a lot more on lenses...
2: Since you have used SLR's before it is basically the same, except you have more control, like switching ISO on the fly, white balance etc etc...
3: See 2.
4: Shooting JPG's you can easily print them out directly or post them on the web after downsizing.
Have fun! Experiment experiment...no cost in film here!
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05/10/2005 06:01:37 PM · #3 |
Photoshop pays dividends with use - 20D is a little soft and unsaturated out of camera (deliberately), though photos are always useable.
Enable ISO H/3200 and use that and ISO 1600 for amazing night photography without flash, but don't forget to turn it off the next morning.
Buy a big CF card - that burst mode is addictive.
An ND filter might be useful for slowing things down in the daytime - ISO 50 is not an option.
Get used to PS - it is so tempting to underexpose to keep detail in the high light areas with the background thought - I can fiddle with the levels to make that a proper exposure later across the field.
You will need to resize for web use, at the very least - files are large! Batch operations through PS to resize and sharpen (and saturate) work well.
Message edited by author 2005-05-10 18:03:00. |
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05/10/2005 06:02:46 PM · #4 |
The 20D is a great quality camera and produces great quality images when combined with good glass stuck on the front. You can shoot at ISO 1600 with the flick of your finger and have basically NO noise/grain in your shots.
You're going to have such a good time with your new DSLR. |
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05/10/2005 06:10:47 PM · #5 |
Thanks for the responses and suggestions. Glass is going to be another issue to research - had already started in another thread a while back. I am going back and forth on one main walk around and whether to get the kit lens (I think it's only $50 extra).
One main thing I am going to have to get used to is taking shots using the view finder and not the LCD. Is the LCD even an option on the 20D - for taking photos?
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05/10/2005 06:14:10 PM · #6 |
| Nope - but it is good for the soul to use the viewfinder. |
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05/10/2005 06:19:42 PM · #7 |
As much as I love my camera, I do miss the flip in/out/over/around screen that my Canon point& shoot cameras had *sigh*.
Sure wish I could combine the best features of each camera into one Utopia of cameras. |
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05/10/2005 06:21:18 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by autumncat:
Upgrading to 20D - anything I need to know? |
yeah, dont get dust on the image sensor.... it sucks |
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05/10/2005 06:45:02 PM · #9 |
| sensor dust is a pain - get a good compressed air blowing kit (pure air - no propellants), or a sensitive brush set, and/or use the Scotch magic tape method. Must be done fairly regularly - especially before taking high contrast or long exposure shots where it is very noticeable. |
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05/10/2005 06:48:13 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
...Must be done fairly regularly - especially before taking high contrast or long exposure shots where it is very noticeable. |
Sensor dust showing up on photos do not depend on long exposures or high contrast subjects, they show up when you use small apertures around f/11 and smaller.
Message edited by author 2005-05-10 18:48:34. |
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05/10/2005 06:52:30 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
sensor dust is a pain - get a good compressed air blowing kit (pure air - no propellants), or a sensitive brush set, and/or use the Scotch magic tape method. Must be done fairly regularly - especially before taking high contrast or long exposure shots where it is very noticeable. |
Sensor dust scares me. Is it safe for a novice, such as myself, to attempt to clean the sensor?
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05/10/2005 07:05:24 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by doctornick:
Sensor dust showing up on photos do not depend on long exposures or high contrast subjects, they show up when you use small apertures around f/11 and smaller. |
Makes sense. Though they show up against a bright background at bigger apertures than f11. Poss. I notice it for long exposures as for those I tend to use small apertures.
If you change lenses even infrequently, you will need to do this every now and then. Safe to do - some recommend the specialist soft brushes - they are quite expensive, but prob. not when compared to going for a service every few weeks. My local pro shop sold me mini compressed CO2 cannisters and a spray grip that fires a high power jet of CO2 into the body (about $15). Very easy - lock mirror up in special functions - No need to touch anything - just make sure that you get gas with no propellent or additives.
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05/10/2005 07:09:02 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by autumncat:
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
sensor dust is a pain - get a good compressed air blowing kit (pure air - no propellants), or a sensitive brush set, and/or use the Scotch magic tape method. Must be done fairly regularly - especially before taking high contrast or long exposure shots where it is very noticeable. |
Sensor dust scares me. Is it safe for a novice, such as myself, to attempt to clean the sensor? |
It needn't scare you, and it really doesn't need to be done all that often. I've done it four or five times in nearly two years. A hand blower may remove some dust, but is likely to just move it around. I would never ever use tape on my sensor (my personal opinion as an engineer in a directly related field). I highly recommend the Copperhill method, which results in an exceptionally clean sensor quickly and at low cost per cleaning. |
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05/10/2005 07:11:13 PM · #14 |
20D Custom Functions.
Setting Function 01. SET button to Change Parameters is one of the first best things I did. While in shooting mode pressing the set button then using the small dial, I can quickly change between the different Parameters , Preset 1, Preset 2 or B/W or any of the other 3 Custom Presets (Parm1, Parm2, Parm3)...I set my custom Presets for the different lenses I use For example I bump Sharpness and Contrast on one Parameter and used that with my EF 55-200mm when I had it.
Custom Functions I mess with frequently are in bold.
01. SET button function when shooting (None, change quality, change parameters, menu display, image replay)
02. Long exposure noise reduction (on/off) - for exposures longer than 1 second
03. Flash sync speed in Av mode (Auto, 1/250 sec) - fixes the shutter speed for flash shots in aperture priority mode
04. Shutter button/AE lock button (AF/AE lock, AE lock/AF, AF/AF lock + no AE lock, AE/AF + no AE lock) - define what these two buttons do
05. AF-assist beam/Flash firing (Emits, Does not emit, Only ext. flash emits)
06. Exposure level increments (1/3, 1/2-stop) - the setting increment for shutter speed, aperture, exposure compensation
07. Flash firing (Fires, does not fire) - here's how to use the AF-assist lamp without taking a flash picture
08. ISO expansion (on/off) - turns on ISO 3200
09. Bracket sequence/Auto cancel (0/-/+/Enable, 0/-/+/Disable, -/0/+/Enable, -/0/+/Disable) - Choose the order in which exposure and WB bracketing photos are taken, and if it is cancelled when you power off the camera, switch lenses, etc.
10. Superimposed display (on/off) - whether the AF point is shown in the optical viewfinder
11. Menu button display position (Previous [top if powered off] menu, previous menu, top menu) - where the cursor starts when you invoke the menu system
12. Mirror lockup (on/off) - enable it when the vibration of the mirror can blur your photos
13. AF point selection method (Normal, multi-controller direct, quick control dial direct) - how you manually select a focus point
14. E-TTL II (Evaluative, average) - flash metering
15. Shutter curtain sync (1st, 2nd-curtain)
16. Safety shift in Av or Tv (on/off) - if the subject's brightness changes suddenly, the camera can shift the shutter speed or aperture to obtain a proper exposure
17. Lens AF stop button (AF stop, AF start, AE lock while metering, AF point: M-->Auto/Auto-->Center [for changing the focus point], One Shot <--> AI servo, IS start) - this button is only found on super telephoto lenses
18. Add original decision data (on/off) - adds data that proves image is original; requires Data Verification Kit to be useful
Message edited by author 2005-05-10 19:13:36. |
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05/10/2005 07:21:45 PM · #15 |
.This chap has a good article on sensor cleaning, recommending brushes and CO2. The CO2 blower he links to and recommends is the same as I use with excellent results. With semi-regular blowing, I hve avoided any serious build up so far, but may have to reconsider if there is something more substantial on my sensor.
Message edited by author 2005-05-10 19:22:03. |
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05/10/2005 07:25:10 PM · #16 |
Originally posted by awpollard:
20D Custom Functions.
Setting Function 01. SET button to............ |
I actually printed that out, just in case ya know. |
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05/10/2005 08:30:38 PM · #17 |
I'll start off by saying that I really like my 20D, and consider it the best choice for the money available. I have to start this way because some people are going to be upset about my writing about a few 20D-specific flaws you should watch out for.
The "H" ISO3200 setting is useful pretty much only if you're shooting to jpg, because it's not a real setting. Metering is set to ISO3200, but gain is *exactly the same* as ISO1600, with the raw values multiplied by two. You get exactly zero additional range by doing this. This isn't documented anywhere, and was discovered (to the best of my knowledge) by John P. Sheehy by analyzing the RAW files with a hex editor.
Per-scanline / per channel black point subtraction in the analog to digital converter is somewhat broken, leading to visible horizontal noise bands that cannot be removed with the usual noise removal software programs. On most cameras this will only be visible on very low signal settings. A small number of people have reported having major problems with this, so that may be a manufacturing flaw to watch out for. Take a bunch of shots in shadows and at night, and see how far you can push the camera before seeing banding. If you're seeing banding on shots merely slightly underexposed, you might want to consider a replacement and see if you get luckier. There's lots of discussion on this on the dpreview forums, and a couple people have even written Photoshop plugins that are supposed to help you get rid of the banding. Some people have reported success with that. I never have.
Watch out for ghosted images when using IS. I haven't had this problem; others have. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the lenses or the bodies, but it's something to keep an eye out for. If your shots are coming out abnormally soft or doubled with IS on, but perfectly fine with IS off, you have a problem that you probably need to take up with Canon.
Watch out for focus plane miscalibration. A few people have reported getting cameras that focus to the wrong spot. A good way to test this cheaply is set your autofocus to a single point, set up a bunch of index cards with numbers in a row, shoot at a very sharp angle at one of the middle ones with a fast, long lens, and see what shows up in focus. You can also draw a long line with markings on a large sheet of paper, or a variety of other tricks, as long as you have something to indicate where you were pointing. If the shot ends up focused elsewhere, send the camera for repairs.
A large number of BG-E2 battery grips were manufactured defective, and Canon will be putting out a recall at the end of the month. If you order a grip, check the tightness of your screw dial after using it for a bit, and see if it is abnormally loose. Also, put your heaviest lens on the camera, hold it vertically by the grip alone, and keep an eye on your battery meter. If you suddenly show low power on full batteries, or it disconnects entirely, you have a defective BG-E2.
On to some general SLR advice, for you to take or discard as you feel is appropriate (though I don't think I'm saying anything particularly controversial here):
If this is your first time owning an SLR camera, it may take you a while to get used to the weight and balance. It's very, very different from using a point-and-shoot, especially with a battery grip and heavy lens attached. Experiment with different ways to keep your camera available: hanging around your neck, hanging from your shoulder, in a shoulder bag, or in a waist pack. I personally prefer having it in a belted shoulder bag and using the hand strap for support, then firing two-handed. It may take you some time experimenting with bags to find one you like as well. I ended up using the LowePro Pro Mag 2 AW for most of my walk-around work, and the LowePro Specialist 85 AW for long hikes, because I can convert the shoulder strap into a chest compression strap. Learning this was expensive. I own an Off Trail 2 that I never use now, as well as a bunch of sliplock cases and a deluxe belt and harness.
Welcome to the world of nonstandardized filter sizes, by the way. When buying lenses, try to select a set that is mostly the same filter size to keep yourself from going crazy. Many people like step-down rings to handle this problem; I can't get them to work conveniently with lens hoods, so I never use the one I have and just buy filters for every size of lens I own. Invest in one of the better polarizers if you plan to do a lot of outdoor work. B+W seems to make the cheapest of the good ones; the quality of the high end Hoya filters is famous, though, if a bit more costly. Contemplate a graduated neutral density filter as well. Skip the rest for a while; almost all of the other filters just do things more easily done in post-production anyway, but those two really do let you takes shots you couldn't otherwise take.
Sensor cleaning isn't as onerous or as frequently required as it sounds, though professional sensor brushes are a bit expensive. If you are feeling very confident, there are cheaper alternatives. Find a relatively dust-free place to practice switching lenses fluidly and quickly, and you'll limit your exposure time in the field. Try not to drop expensive optics while doing this. :P
Lens cleaning is another matter. I often don't realize that I picked up a persistent speck until I've started editing. It hasn't happened for a Basic Challenge yet, fortunately, so I've never had a problem editing it out. Editing it out on 200 images can be a bit tedious, though, particularly if the speck was on the polarizer, and thus isn't in the same place on every image. Buy a microfiber cloth and a LensPen. Inspect lenses and filters regularly. Read the damn instructions from the LensPen site so you aren't embarassed in front of a friend by not realizing that there's more to it than just the brush part (yes, that happened to me).
Strongly consider picking up the deluxe remote and a tripod if you don't have one. Even with Canon's image stabilization, a tripod makes a lot of additional shots possible, and the deluxe remote is the only way to get a shot on a timer other than 10 seconds without going into the menus to set mirror lock-up. It's also the most convenient way to set up a lot of automatic shots, and is well worth the investment over the basic remote, that's nothing more than a remote shutter switch. Tripod selection can be expensive, and is something of a religious issue. Get something with a quick-release and tall enough so that you're not stooped over all the time without the center pole extended, or you'll drive yourself nuts.
Learn to enjoy the expensive drug rush that is lens selection. :) If you're going to go broke, you might as well derive the maximum amount of satisfaction from it. Don't obsess over sharpness alone, however; consider things like weight, zoom range, macro ability, and most importantly, what shots you wanted to take that your existing lenses don't let you take. Canon's 70-200 f/2.8 IS lens is one of the most glorious on the market, and I've been playing with one I borrowed from a friend, but I won't be buying it myself, despite the fact that it's a good sight sharper than my 75-300, because it doesn't fit how I shoot well enough.
Oh, and one last piece of advice: be careful taking advice from strangers on the internet. They often don't know what they're talking about. ;)
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05/10/2005 08:37:58 PM · #18 |
| My Lord, Zed. A few here-and-there modifications and you've got yourself a damn fine tutorial for this site titled "The Migration from P&S to SLR" I recommend you submit it. |
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05/10/2005 08:44:23 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by bledford:
My Lord, Zed. A few here-and-there modifications and you've got yourself a damn fine tutorial for this site titled "The Migration from P&S to SLR" I recommend you submit it. |
Heh, well, I just like to write, I guess. It's a bit 20D-specific for a general tutorial, though, I think. |
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05/11/2005 11:08:08 AM · #20 |
Thank you to everyone who commented. Need to print this out and keep it handy for when my new camera shows up. Oh wait...I still need to order it for that to happen!
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05/11/2005 11:19:34 AM · #21 |
If you're going to use a large lens....buy the handstrap. Use the next strap. There is nothing quite like losing a $3,000+ camera setup for a bit of extra comfort and less neck abrasion.
;) |
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05/11/2005 11:23:37 AM · #22 |
Also, I say go with the kit lens if you don't have lenses. It's fine for most ordinary stuff. And it's often only $90 more. Then put your extra money toward a telephoto. (Exception, if you're planning to go more with the macro end of photography then get a good macro lens as the kit lens and macro will probably overlap) But the 18-55 gives you a "wide" shot.
I found this works very well for me. I originally planned on not getting the kit lens. Thought I might get the Canon 28-135 IS. Instead, I decided to get the 18-55 kit (as it gave me a wide angle view) and put the money toward a high end Canon 70-200mm L lens. Now I am very happy with that decision. If I had not gotten the kit lens I would have likely bought two mid-range lenses. Now I have the cheap kit and a great tele-zoom. Later, I will add a strong macro and an extender lens. That should hold me over for a year or two....
:) |
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05/11/2005 04:52:47 PM · #23 |
Originally posted by theSaj:
Also, I say go with the kit lens if you don't have lenses. It's fine for most ordinary stuff. And it's often only $90 more. Then put your extra money toward a telephoto. (Exception, if you're planning to go more with the macro end of photography then get a good macro lens as the kit lens and macro will probably overlap) But the 18-55 gives you a "wide" shot.
I found this works very well for me. I originally planned on not getting the kit lens. Thought I might get the Canon 28-135 IS. Instead, I decided to get the 18-55 kit (as it gave me a wide angle view) and put the money toward a high end Canon 70-200mm L lens. Now I am very happy with that decision. If I had not gotten the kit lens I would have likely bought two mid-range lenses. Now I have the cheap kit and a great tele-zoom. Later, I will add a strong macro and an extender lens. That should hold me over for a year or two....
:) |
Thanks for the response. Actually, my thoughts have been very similar to yours. Originally I was going to get the camera body and the 24-70 L. My husband and I talked about it and think to save money for a few months - I will get the kit 18-55. It's about $50 for the kit lens - not bad at all. I've seen wonderful photos on this site taken with the kit lens. Then I will save for the L glass. First the 24-70 then the 70-200. I also need to get the memory card and am going with the Sandisk Extreme III 2G.
Right now my motto is "sell, sell, sell"!
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05/11/2005 04:59:19 PM · #24 |
Admin Alert:
if/when you get to implementing the User Reviews part of the Equipment>>Cameras section of the DPC web site, please take these posts into consideration. ZedPobre's one especially has value.
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05/11/2005 05:16:03 PM · #25 |
autumncat...
a few more thoughts....
a) get the 70-200mm before the 24-70...it's AMAZING...and you'll want the extra reach. On the flip side, if you are not planning on the IS, also consider some of the Sigma lenses, I believe they have 50-300mm (something to that affect) and it will cover from the kit lens onward.
b) you do realize that the 24-70 L on the 20D becomes a 38-112mm do to the 1.6x factor, so you will find yourself not have much option for a wide view. That's why the kit lens is an 18mm-55mm (28-88mm).
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