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03/21/2005 02:13:11 PM · #26 |
Originally posted by pawdrix:
You have a pretty amazing camera there but you won't get great results handed to you on a silver platter like with a P&S.
It's so worth learning how to do it all yourself. There is no comparison for me as to how much more rewarding it is when I capture a nice shot fully manuel. When it clicks, I really feel like I've accomplished something. It's an enriched experience that's totaly addictive. |
Do you mean I have to work with manual focus ??? As I mentionned in my earlier post, my main issue is with the focus. |
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03/21/2005 02:22:58 PM · #27 |
Originally posted by LouiseB:
Originally posted by pawdrix:
You have a pretty amazing camera there but you won't get great results handed to you on a silver platter like with a P&S.
It's so worth learning how to do it all yourself. There is no comparison for me as to how much more rewarding it is when I capture a nice shot fully manuel. When it clicks, I really feel like I've accomplished something. It's an enriched experience that's totaly addictive. |
Do you mean I have to work with manual focus ??? As I mentionned in my earlier post, my main issue is with the focus. |
The AF on your camera probably works fine. Go to page 62 of your manual to learn how to select an AF point. Set for Manual AF point Selection.
Then go to page 65 and set the Drive Mode to Single. This will prevent the shutter from firing unless the AF is locked on the subject. The rest is up to you to hold the camera steady.
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03/21/2005 02:28:29 PM · #28 |
Originally posted by LouiseB:
Do you mean I have to work with manual focus ??? As I mentionned in my earlier post, my main issue is with the focus. |
No. I'm no expert but the preset modes and metering might slow down the camera a dash and that intern might slow up or effect the Auto Focus with certain lenses. I do know that not all Auto focus lenses work at the same speed. Again, I'm no expert so anyone can jump in and correct me.
I was saying that using the camera set to Manuel will streamline the process. These DLSR's cruise better when you take control. I've read this about my D70 in a number of places so I decided to learn how to work it 100% outside of AF. They didn't design the D70 very well for those who use the pre-set modes as it wasn't the crowd they were selling to. I assume the Canon 20D isn't too much different. I should also add that I HATED all my pre-fab mode shots, up and down. So I moved on immediately.
In short, just practice and you'll get it. It might take some work but it will happen eventually and it will be very rewarding. I promise you won't ever look back. Take no prisoners. Good Luck!!!
Message edited by author 2005-03-21 14:31:31. |
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03/21/2005 02:29:17 PM · #29 |
| Thanks a lot "nsbca7" ! I will read carefully my manuel one more time .... Thanks again. |
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03/21/2005 02:33:34 PM · #30 |
One thing that might be taken into consideration is the fact that the DSLRs are heavier than the P&S. Throw a zoom lens on it and the front end is even heavier. To test if this might be the problem, put the camera on a table and press the shutter release carefully. the camera should autofocus on its own. If the result is less blur, camera shake is one of the problems. Due to health issues (old shoulder injury), I find it difficult to hold my zoom lens at all if the shot is less than 1/200. There is a barely perceptible blur to the photo at less than that, the result of pressing down on the button.
On another note, Canon recommends using USM at 300,.3,0 to sharpen images out of the camera. I tried it on my Stock shot and it did make a difference.
hope this helps!
dahkota
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03/21/2005 02:39:16 PM · #31 |
Originally posted by pawdrix:
..... the preset modes and metering might slow down the camera a dash and that intern might slow up or effect the Auto Focus with certain lenses. I do know that not all Auto focus lenses work at the same speed ...... |
Thanks a lot for your answer ....
This might sound silly, but when I see the little green light (steady not flashing) in the visor and when I hear the little bip .... doesn't it mean the focus is ok ?? |
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03/21/2005 10:24:03 PM · #32 |
Originally posted by LouiseB:
Originally posted by pawdrix:
..... the preset modes and metering might slow down the camera a dash and that intern might slow up or effect the Auto Focus with certain lenses. I do know that not all Auto focus lenses work at the same speed ...... |
Thanks a lot for your answer ....
This might sound silly, but when I see the little green light (steady not flashing) in the visor and when I hear the little bip .... doesn't it mean the focus is ok ?? |
Yes. I don't leave the "bib" sound on for obvious reasons. The green light will let you know fine.
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03/21/2005 10:52:34 PM · #33 |
I believe the G5 (or G6) is doing some "photoshopping" for you inside the camera by bumping up contrast and saturation, and maybe sharpening. The 20D doesn't do as much by default, expecting you do do it in post processing. A little bit of USM as mentioned above works wonders.
Or, you can go to the Parameter setting in the menu and make a custom setting, telling the camera how much to process the image. Play around a bit with different amounts of saturation, contrast, and sharpening. Then you can easily switch back and forth between Parameter 2 for full control, or use your custom setting for point and shooting with more bright, colorful images straight out of the camera.
In the 20D there are multiple focus points. Regardless of whether you do manual or autofocus, one or more of them will flash red to tell you which points the camera thinks are in focus. |
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